Ducati Monster Forum

powered by:

April 18, 2024, 11:31:35 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: No Registration with MSN emails
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  



Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: M620 Native-H4 LED Install  (Read 2135 times)
bagodoosh
New Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 42


« on: April 29, 2018, 11:57:36 AM »

I've installed an LED headlamp similar to advMonster's Native-H4. I'm documenting my procedure here.

Initially i searched DMF and found the following two threads:
Harley Daymaker LED headlight
headlight globe replacement with LED.

i think the total headlamp replacement is the correct approach in terms of lite output (intensity & pattern), i did not pursue this route due to 1) cost, 2) losing parking lite / DRL, 3) changing the look of the bike (slitely for the worse IMO).

1) Corse Dynamics Daymaker $207 + $100 Adapter Ring, OR JWSpeaker 8700 EVO2 $256 + $160 Adapter
there are alternatives such as TruckLite 27270C, and Chinese knockoffs; but these still require an adapter to fit the 7" headlamp into the 7.5" bucket.
2) JWSpeaker makes a European variant with DRL, however these are not available in N.A.

I decided to try out the Native-H4 style LED bulb. skurvy had mentioned in this post that the bulb is longer than oem and he could not seal the bucket.

my criteria for the installation was that everything should be reversible on the bike. this meant not making permanent modifications such as cutting a hole in the bucket. modding the LED bulb is fine.


>> BULB:
the bulb I ordered is similar to advMonster. but i did not order it from them. what i purchased is advertised as 2800LM 25W bulb. they advertise the Native-H4 as 3600LM 25W bulb. the bulbs look very similar.

advMonster Native-H4:


my bulb:


>> MEASUREMENTS:



A: OEM 25.6mm, LED 32.2mm

the LED bulb's diameter measured 35.3mm. skurvy mentioned in his post that the native-H4 fit perfectly. i had to grind the opening with a dremel in order to be able to insert the bulb in. once inside, there was no contact with the mushroom reflector inside.

after grinding there was a good amount of plastic dust covering the reflector inside the housing, even though i had the opening faced down. using a combination of compressed air and a vacuum cleaner i was able to clean the inside.

there is a screw protruding from the bulb:

this required the bulb to be rotated to find the rite spot where the screw could pass. after this, the bulb could be aligned to the correct position.

>> MODIFICATIONS:
the LED is about 6.6mm longer than oem. i noticed that the H4 plug does not fully seat on the metal tabs of the bulb.

1) i cut off the tips of the metal tabs from the LED bulb. after this is done, the plug will no longer clip in. it will rest loosely on the tabs. however since the back of bucket is so close, the plug will not come out.

this did not provide sufficient clearance. i figured bending the metal tabs may do the job, however this required me to disassemble the black H4 plug.



after cutting (~3.6mm) and bending the metal tabs, measurement of "A" is 26.7mm.

the disassembly of the H4 plug is not difficult. snap off the top:


then using a flat head screw driver, apply some force to the female metal plug inside. do this from the end that attaches to the bulb. at the same time, using a smaller flat head push in the two plastic tabs:


do this one at a time. i heard a click as each plastic tab opened. when both plastic tabs have clicked, push the metal plug thru, by alternating force on each side.

cover the exposed metal plug with electrical tape:


i added a thin foam pad to the back. it is 2.3mm uncompressed. using this pad everything was snug and required a slite pressure to seal everything up.

the wire locations, looking into the bucket with the bulb facing me: YELLOW left, WHITE top, BLACK rite

Looking back - bending the metal tabs on the bulb is probably not necessary. i think there would be sufficient clearance that instead of the white foam, several layers of duct tape could be used at the back of bucket instead.

>> LITE INTENSITY:

my procedure for measuring lite intensity for each bulb was:
1) fully charge the battery
2) with ignition on, engine off, measure the max intensity using UT383 lite meter

one thing i noticed with the oem halogen bulb was that the intensity was quickly diminishing as the battery lost charge. from memory, i recall seeing a hotspot of 8000LM, and by the time i found the max maybe 30sec later, it had come down to 7600LM which is what i recorded. with the LED, the reading was more stable. this could be due to the lower power consumption.

OEM max lo-beam: 7600 LM
LED max lo-beam: 13050 LM

>> BEAM PATTERN:

OEM LO (1/30):


LED LO (1/125):


OEM HI (1/20):


LED HI (1/30):


the pictures are not good for judging lite intensity because the camera i use is auto only and the exposure time (written in parenthesis) is different for each pic. F#, ISO and white balance remained the same.

the LED HI beam definitely has a thinner beam pattern. this is because the hi-beam filament in the OEM bulb produces lite in 360 degrees, thus liting the bottom half of the reflector. this LED bulb utilizes only the top half of the reflector. the bottom half is covered by the heatsink.

i have not road tested the LED headlamp yet.
i have done very little nite riding in the past and do not anticipate doing much in the future. the lite output is a nice white glow (have not measured color temperature yet, but it's advertised as 6000K) and it matches the LED parking lite nicely. the reduced 30W of power is probably rough on the power regulator, but it will allow me to install an accessory such as hand warmers.

Logged
koko64
Post Whore
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 15655


« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2018, 03:34:08 PM »

Thanks for sharing. Interested in your road testing results for sure.

Hopefully that light pattern puts more hi beam down the road and less in the trees like some headlights. I certainly had to fiddle around with bucket adjustment to get the compromise setting for both hi and low beam. I just have a fancy Phillips globe and rebuilt wiring. I'm planning on heavy duty wiring via a relay set up in the future.

Cheers waytogo
« Last Edit: April 29, 2018, 03:38:46 PM by koko64 » Logged

2015 Scrambler 800
DarkMonster620
According to some, a bottomless pit eating machine
Post Whore
******
Offline Offline

Posts: 37948


Enjoying the ride


WWW
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2018, 03:46:08 PM »

I've installed them in cars and indeed, the beam is thinner because is "concentrated" but does bright up the road ahead thus due to a different focal point of the "bulb", it has to be re-aligned in order not to blind incoming traffic and not installing tinted film on windshield since it will "kill" the beam and will only see a dot on the road, so, if by any means night  o.ea and you have your tinted shield, this might happen
Logged

Carlos
I said I was smart, never that I had my shit together
Ducati is the pretty girl that can't walk in heels without stumbling. I still love her.
"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."
Totoduc
New Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4


« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2018, 06:51:18 PM »

Hello.. Curious if your headlight bucket is metal or plastic... And there are any overheating issues within the bucket..?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Logged
NAKID
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8847



« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2018, 07:14:18 PM »

The LED I went with will eliminate the issues with the heat sink getting in the way. I'm pretty happy with it, and it's not expensive. Maybe it'd be worth it to you to look into it.


http://www.opt-7.com/fluxbeam-x-motorcycle-led-headlight/
Logged

2005 S2R800
2006 S2R1000
2015 Monster 821
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
SimplePortal 2.1.1