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Author Topic: Oil change  (Read 1815 times)
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« on: April 15, 2021, 08:04:27 AM »

Hey Folks,

Tried digging for answers on this and I found lost deep in the weeds.  I brought a 1999 M900 back to life last summer following some serious carb drama (many thanks to all the help I found here on that).  I'm on a budget these days and I'm gearing up for an oil change.  I'm looking for good budget option for oil change on this dry clutch high rev L-twin.

This is my first ducati and I found a multitude of opinions on this last year.  I bit the bullet and bought ducati shell advance oil from the ducati dealer and a ducati bran filter.  The oil change cost me ~$109 to perform in my own garage...ouch.  I'm looking to shave a couple dollars off that this year if I can. 

I only got 1000 miles on this oil, but it sat for a winter after that.  First off: I should still change it right? or can I put another 1K on this oil? 

Second: What do folks think about running v-twin oil from a run of the mill auto parts store?  These are ~$12 a quart and would save me a good chunk already.  I've also heard Klotz is pretty good, but I'm not sure if I should use their v-twin (formulated for harley's) or their racing variety.

Appreciate any insights on this, I know this is a question that's been raised a million times before
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booger
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« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2021, 08:24:30 AM »

Get a HiFlo Filtro oil filter, they're OK and cheaper than a Ducati filter (I think).

For the oil, not sure if it's totally advised against putting more miles on oil that sat like that. In my mind if motor oil hasn't circulated under heat and stress until the additive package is depleted and if the oil isn't visibly worn out from having miles put on it, I ride that oil until I see fit to change it. Otherwise I can't help but think it's wasteful. There are those who will disagree, but I use Red Line or Motul which are pretty expensive hot-sh*t oils that are group V and ester-based etc etc so I would think they offer plenty of protection against sitting and doing absolutely nothing at all for a season, especially at those prices. I would not hesitate to ride on an oil change that's two years old especially if it only had 1k miles on it. That Ducati oil you bought is likely pretty good and will withstand that easy. I think people in general get way too paranoid about oil. Again, I'll get flamed but that's how I roll and I haven't destroyed anything yet.

Also there will be those who disagree but I don't believe there is anything inherently kooky or obscure about Ducati internal metallurgy that would require such a differentiation between oils such as V-Twin vs Racing. On this very forum there have been veteran members advising to use regular old Mobil 1 10W-30 for bikes with dry clutches. Because the engine does not share the oil with the clutch, I would think using Mobil 1 you can buy at Walmart in your 900 would be just fine. However I know for a fact there will be people here that will disagree and say OMG you must use moto-specific oil and it has to cost an arm and a leg or it won't work and your bike will be destroyed.

that is my .02
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2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA
greenmonster
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« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2021, 11:52:21 AM »

+1.
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« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2021, 12:11:26 PM »

I buy Mobil 1 4T 10w40 Racing oil at my local autoparts store... $12qt... for my air-cooled, wet clutch Monster.  Some stores even carry motorcycle oil filters, too, or you can just order them online.

I've read all the oil threads, yea, yea, blah, blah.  It's a reasonable oil for my motorcycle, doesn't cost a fortune, and it's available.  I don't track my bike, it's not a high revver.

I HAVE actually destroyed a motorcycle motor because of my oil choice... many years ago I wiped out the motor on my 750 Honda by using car oil, then riding it from Ohio to Colorado in 120F summer heat... so I might be a little picky about oil, and oil changes, but I still stand behind my choice.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2021, 02:13:26 PM by Charlie98 » Logged

Dennis

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« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2021, 12:46:27 PM »

HiFlo filers are great quality, possibly better than the present OEM.  Do NOT use Fram.  Since you have a dry clutch you can use diesel oils like Mobil Delvac synthetic or Shell Rotella synthetic.  Do not use regular automotive oil, it does not contain the  pressure.

Also:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1912.msg21766#msg21766
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« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2021, 05:22:05 PM »

That thread will keep you going.  waytogo
I've seen bike motors wrecked from either low oil levels or cheap oil left too long which has turned to sludge.
What's great about the dry clutch is the choice open to you, but Howie is correct to say that you should use moto specific oils to protect your gearbox because the oil covers both and there are additives for the gearbox missing from car oils. One thing Harley did right was to have seperate oils for motor, gearbox and primary with no compromise, but most moto oils have a big job to do over a broad range of conditions.

If cash is tight then use the diesel oil and the hiflofiltro filter. I say ride the bike all day and change it when you get home. Dolph. If cash is super tight then put another thousand miles on it first.
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« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2021, 08:45:51 AM »

OK, so the engine shares lube oil with the gearbox which means the oil should be enriched with extra shear additives. Didn't think about that. So you want the toughest hard working oil you can find that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Shell Rotella T6 synthetic from Walmart would be my choice, but I think it only comes in a 5W-40.

I use either Red Line Motorcycle or Motul 300V and have been for years but they cost too much for me to recommend them, and they can't be bought down the road at McParts.
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Everybody got a plan 'till they get punched in the mouth - Mike Tyson

2001 M900Sie - sold
2006 S2R1000 - sold
2008 HM1100S - sold
2004 998 FE - $old
2007 S4RT
2007 Vespa LX50 aka "Slowey"
2008 BMW R1200 GSA
Frank C
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« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2021, 09:15:06 AM »

The Shell Rotella T6 now comes in 15w40. 
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Charlie98
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« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2021, 11:19:52 AM »

Completely off the reservation...

I owned and drove a semi truck for 4 of the 17 years I drove big trucks.  Big block Cummins N14 motor, with oil changes religiously at 15K with ONLY Shell Rotella T 15w40 (regular, old formula, not synthetic... this was back in the '90's...)  We had some work done to the top end at 840K and the mechanic asked when the rebuild was done... the top end looked brand new.  I just grinned and said it was all that clean living...

There is value to running good oil, and regular oil changes.  I change my oil every spring, with usually less than 3K on it.  I'm not a penny pincher, but I don't normally throw money at things, either, just to make myself feel good... but I DO spend the money on oil and tires.
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Dennis

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« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2021, 12:45:29 AM »

Hey Folks,

...<SNIP>...
Second: What do folks think about running v-twin oil from a run of the mill auto parts store?  These are ~$12 a quart and would save me a good chunk already.  I've also heard Klotz is pretty good, but I'm not sure if I should use their v-twin (formulated for harley's) or their racing variety.

Appreciate any insights on this, I know this is a question that's been raised a million times before

All good advise here.
So, let me add a few.
Don't bother spending extra $  for "formulated for V-twin" oil.
You won't get any benefit from buying and using them.
(If you own long stroke, roller bearing bottom end, slow revving motor, and spending most of the time sitting still in the heavy traffic or moving slowly, doing meaningless throttle blip in the middle of hot summer day, then, you might.)

Also, is Klotz available locally?

I don't bother oil / oil filters I can't buy locally.

So, I run Motul 300V (15W 50) on my S4R, and Red Line (10w 30) on my NA6 (which has over 370,000 miles on the original motor, with the original head gasket.)
Which, brings anther aspect of oil choosing.

I'd say, try some different brand / viscosity of oils.
Unless you do something really stupid, you won't kill your motor.
Find the one that you like.
That's how I decided 300V for S4R, and Redline for old Miata.

(Very interestingly, I can feel only very subtle change with different oils with S4R (or sometimes I can't ),
HOWEVER, with ultra high mileage NA6, I can clearly feel / hear the difference.
For example, with Castrol GTX (10w 30, 10w 40, or 20W50, it doesn't matter) this car runs VERY ROUGH, AND NOISY.
What really bothers me is the tickling sound from the valve lifter.

That noise just goes away with Redline.

And I can always pick them up at my local NAPA store.


So, go ahead, try something that you are interested.

And trust your own gut feeling (my engine runs better with this oil), NOT some random stuff you read on the internet.
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