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Author Topic: Patching a hole in the engine cover  (Read 848 times)
d3vi@nt
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« Reply #15 on: August 17, 2020, 06:56:07 PM »

Wow. Awesome. Thanks for all the replies, I really appreciate it.

I've committed to taking the cover off. Mostly because I still don't know where the broken pieces ended up, but also to be sure I can get it clean and, as speeddog mentioned, is a bit of a PITA to get to.

@speeddog; '10-'12 part was 24220901BC, superseded by part 24221092AC starting MY '13 and same for '14.

'15 went to part 24221321A which was superseded by 24221322A.

Seems like '10-'14 should be good, but I'm wondering if '15 is a no-go? I'd be really curious to know if there's any real differences in the part, besides the number.

Thanks again, all.

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'13 MTS GT
'99 ST2
'07 M695 - Sold
d3vi@nt
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« Reply #16 on: September 05, 2020, 06:45:22 PM »

I finally got the cover pulled and cleaned up. Not too bad --more work removing plastics, draining coolant and removing hoses than anything. Cover came off without to much protest.

There are a couple of sets of bearings in the cover; two for the water pump assembly and one for the stator.

Anyone have any ideas how long these last? They seem to spin without issues. The bike is getting close to 40k miles. I'm wondering if these are the 'last forever' kind, or replace early kind?
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'99 ST2
'07 M695 - Sold
d3vi@nt
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« Reply #17 on: September 13, 2020, 05:52:43 PM »

Funny thing, as I was about to put it back on, I noticed the part number: 24231031A

Looks like it's from a '14 Streetfigher or '15 Hyper.

I'm the second owner and I have no idea if it came that way from the factory, or if it was replaced at some point.

As far as patching, I was able to clamp a piece of plastic (typical rewards/grocery type card; smooth plastic) on the inside, and another against the case edge, which I was most worried about as it's the mating surface. It filled in well with the JB Weld and the plastic clamped to the edge kept the surface nice and even. I touched it up with a second round after it cured for a few days.

I was worried about sticking, so tried wrapping the backing pieces in plastic wrap, but I couldn't keep the wrinkles out, which made for a poor surface. Turns out the plastic cards without wrap didn't stick any way, so wasn't an issue.

The outside doesn't look great, was more difficult as there are curved edges, etc. I could sand it down and paint it if I really cared, but it's back by the sprocket and won't be visible any way.

Got the cover back on; finger tight bolts, wait an hour, then final torque. Will button up the rest hopefully some time this week and see if it holds oil!
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'13 MTS GT
'99 ST2
'07 M695 - Sold
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« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2020, 10:06:55 PM »

Part number in a casting or forging is usually the 'blank' number, it will get used for multiple different finished parts.
Seldom a 'valid' part#.

JB is some pretty nice stuff, it gets way better with a day baking in the sun (it may get there after a week sitting at normal room temp, I don't know)
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2020, 04:37:35 PM »

Ah, interesting. Thanks for that info, makes sense.
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« Reply #20 on: September 15, 2020, 11:58:06 AM »

<snip>                             

JB is some pretty nice stuff, it gets way better with a day baking in the sun (it may get there after a week sitting at normal room temp, I don't know)

Any heat will speed the full cure, but it will fully cure even at cool temps
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