Patching a hole in the engine cover

[d3vi@nt]

I'm not sure exactly how, or when this happened, but that's another story.

I'm wondering what folks' thoughts are on JB Weld for this spot. I've never used it before and am not sure how I feel about it. I understand that prep is critical.

I've also not found any good videos on patching a hole like this. Most patches have some backing intact to keep the stuff in place. I feel like I'd just be jamming a bunch of goop into an open hole without much to support it and only edges to adhere to.

Pic here (I hope):

https://photos.app.goo.gl/q5wqMjRtMUxL94oX8

[ducpainter]

It's difficult to tell from your photo...how large is the hole?

As far as JB Weld...it will definitely work if you can clean the area sufficiently, rough up the surrounding area to ensure adhesion, and somehow keep the epoxy from running off the area or into the cases.

Just a thought, but some putty stuffed into the crack/hole might keep the epoxy from running inside. As far as running off...and I'm serious...hang the bike from the rear wheel. Alternatively, a dam made with tape might work.

You want to use the original JB Weld...not the quick.

[d3vi@nt]

It's difficult to tell from your photo...how large is the hole?

As far as JB Weld...it will definitely work if you can clean the area sufficiently, rough up the surrounding area to ensure adhesion, and somehow keep the epoxy from running off the area or into the cases.

Just a thought, but some putty stuffed into the crack/hole might keep the epoxy from running inside. As far as running off...and I'm serious...hang the bike from the rear wheel. Alternatively, a dam made with tape might work.

You want to use the original JB Weld...not the quick.

The hole is about 1/2" at its widest and not quite 1" long. I'm not sure if there's supposed to be gasket there between the case and the cover, either.

I thought about using JB Weld to stick a small plate on the inside as backing and then putty over it once cured. The thought of the plate potentially letting go inside the case gives me pause.

[ducpainter]

The cover uses 3 bond type sealer. Ducati didn't use a gasket. I see better now what's broken. It isn't the case, but the alternator cover.

If done correctly the plate won't fall off.

You can likely find a used cover on ebay for not too much.

What size motor?

[d3vi@nt]

Thanks for the replies.

It's a 1200 ('13 MTS). Yes, you're correct --it is the cover. I corrected the title.

Undamaged ones seem scarce. There's one on e-bay for $220, but it's for the 10-12 model. That part was superseded, but no idea why.

I think if I were to remove it, I'd just have it welded. My hope to avoid that project is conflicting with my better judgement to have it repaired properly.

[ducpainter]

If you have it welded, you'd also have to have the sealing surface machined flat. You'd be getting close to the cost of a used one at that point. A sheet metal/epoxy repair could be filed flat pretty easily.

There are other sources for used parts besides ebay. I've used Ducati Depot in the past, and I'm sure there are others that don't have every item they have listed on ebay. Did you price a new one?

[d3vi@nt]

Hmm. Well... seems in order to get a good repair, I'm going to have to take it off anyway. I never found the piece(s) of metal. With my luck, it's probably temporarily lodged in the case, waiting for the opportune moment (e.g. middle of nowhere) to drop.

The new OEM part is around $952.

Been searching other sources, but not finding much. If I was sure the superseded 10-12 cover would fit, I'd have more options.

[Buhgaboo]

JB weld is some otherworldly stuff...watch some project farm YouTube videos and you will be a convert...leave it in place...clean it with brake cleaner...mix the jb weld and brush it into the nooks and crannies...let the remainder begin to setup and just plop it into the void once it holds it's shape...that part of the case isn't under any pressure or undue stress...you are literally making a plug...jb weld will hold...there isn't any rotating body immediately around that area and if there is or it becomes in contact with one, it will file it away on its own...

Clean it...cake it...start it up after it's set...then let it be until it's cured...I think you will be fine

[ducpainter]

Hmm. Well... seems in order to get a good repair, I'm going to have to take it off anyway. I never found the piece(s) of metal. With my luck, it's probably temporarily lodged in the case, waiting for the opportune moment (e.g. middle of nowhere) to drop.

The new OEM part is around $952.

Been searching other sources, but not finding much. If I was sure the superseded 10-12 cover would fit, I'd have more options.

The price for new is entirely stupid.

I agree with buhgaboo in that JB weld is amazing, but I'd take the cover off to repair it.

[He Man]

had a hole about half the size in the same case. I JB welded as a temporary fix and was intending on a solder repair later in the future but i rode my motorcycle like that for about 4 years before i blew the entire engine out for unrelated reasons. It'll work if you do it properly!

[pitbull]

Yeah, I would also take the cover off to repair it. Fill in the gap with JB weld and take your time sanding it down flush, checking frequently with a short, steel ruler or some similar straight edge.

You could then take your time looking for a used cover for a decent price on ebay.


FWIW, I've patched two holes on two different monster 900's from broken chains. Both were on crashed monsters I picked up cheap and rebuilt. The JB weld filled holes were fine and never leaked.

In my case I replaced the stator side case cover as they're cheap on eba and patched the main engine case in the manner described above. Both bike were ridden for several thousand miles after with no issue or leaks.

[pitbull]

I should add, in the second picture I added a little thin aluminum patch to help me line up a straight edge on the outside of the case. I did it on one and not the other and it didn't make much of a difference and I don't think it adds much protection.

I should just by a case saver.

[Speeddog]

My reference says that '10-'15 MTS1200 alt covers are all the same.

IMO
Take the cover off.
The aggro of working on that part while it is still on the bike is not worth the time saved by not removing it.
Even at the same time investment, it's so much better to know you've got it clean and done the best possible repair you could.

The normal JB is about like maybe creamy peanut butter on a hot day.
So needs dams.

I'd apply one layer of masking tape to the mating surface of the cover, and slap it up against a piece of glass.
That'll give you a bit of material to final finish.
Orient the glass vertical, and the cover rotated ~135 CCW so that area is up.
Use tape for a backer on the inside, butter it up and let it cure overnight, then bake it in direct sun for the day.

[DuciD03]

JB weld is amazing stuff; Ive used it on several metal repairs; I think the cases are vacuum cast aluminum with silica as a filler / hardener (some are magnesium).

I used the jb with metal; there's also the putty; in thinking this one through, the way id do it is;

… take off case, as you identified; its oily & dirty, specially where the damage is located; 1st clean whole case with WD 40 to cut and lift oil (asides any bushings or bearings); then clean with dove detergent in hot water and stiff nylon brush;  clean again with dove detergent again in hot water; rinse in hot water, the case casting can be porous and absorb oil, then use break cleaner; then id gently heat to see if any oil seeped out; file, remove surface finish, and roughen to bare metal around outer edge of hole, both sides, removing any surface finish; then reclean with break cleaner … but Duc painter would maybe know more.

Once your case is super clean Id build a thin dam with the JB putty, holds and sets fast; building the dam so jb metal can be applied beyond hole on both sides, (and maybe aluminum sheet) then fill that in with the JB metal, leaving slightly high on the mating surface and as its curing Id install while still pliable; maybe while the bikes still warm … then let it cure for specified time; then remove go back and gently shape and do a surface finish to match the rest of the case, or refinish the whole case.

reinstall with gasket sealer as mentioned above … all is doable, but time consuming to do it right. let us know what you did with a pic or 2.

An aside, local duc mechanic recommends "Devcon" but is had to get and super expensive; JB should work.

Cheers  

[Buhgaboo]

JbWeld... it's all in the timing...it doesn't flash over into a solid...there's a good 20 minute window where you can shape it and mold it...do a small amount and play with it...than do a larger amount and fill the void..sure taking the cover off will allow you to sand it down and really mimic the casting...but in this instance...I think it's a touch overkill...painting the perimeter will allow for a real good seal ...then wait...and then using the remainder at a silly putty consistency to fill the void...godspeed