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Author Topic: Shock Spring Rates  (Read 3707 times)
cencalal
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« Reply #15 on: August 16, 2020, 12:07:47 AM »

Improving the suspension was half of the project - I needed to lower the bike as well, and could only raise the stock forks 5/8".  I put on the Showas from the 848 sbk which lowered the front about 1 1/4".  Rear sag was in spec with the stock Sachs shock, so I took the spring from that and put it on the 1100 Sachs shock, along with the adjustable link rod, which I also shortened a bit, so the rear is lower, but I forgot to measure how much.  I've yet to ride it as the exhaust is off and in the bin, waiting for some new pipes, but it looks right.  If I ever find out what rate the original spring is, I may replace it with a single rate spring, but we'll see...
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S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #16 on: August 16, 2020, 08:44:59 AM »

You stated being 5'5", 135lb.

I am 5'5", 125lb with gear on. (Have had the bikes with crazy tall seat.)

So, I somewhat understand your situation.

Maybe you already know, but let me quickly explain about short / light weight rider and altering the ride height.

#1
when you get the rear shock that's tailored to your weight, it effectively lowers the seat.
(When you sit down on the seat, the rear suspension strokes more.)
Not a huge amount, but enough to make difference when you stop.

#2
The adjustable link rod you have there, you know
It is NOT the seat height adjuster, right?

The primary purpose of the adjuster is to alter the swingarm droop angle.


When you do major tampering to the suspension, it is very important to "change one thing at a time".
In your case, I'd say, leave the front end the way it is now, and test ride the bike on your favorite piece of road.

Basically, you want to figure out the "Best swingarm droop angle setting FOR YOU"., first.
(You probably can't lower front end anymore than you already have. So, leave the front end.)

The signs of "Not enough swingarm droop angle"  are

1)front forks tend to top out, thus, front end feels unstable, flighty at exiting corner (especially on rough pavement)

2)In general, the bike tends to run wide under power when coming out the corner (understeer)

The opposite , "too much swingarm droop angle", then ...

1)too steep swingarm droop angle = too much anti-squat effect = not enough weight transfer

2)as a result, poor traction under power.

3)more importantly, it makes the bike more prone to sideway slide (rear wheel stepping outside. Combined with too much rebound damping in the rear shock, it is almost guaranteed to cause lowside.)



In your situation, you are not increasing swingarm droop angle (which means you are making the seat higher).
So, it is a little bit safer direction. (At least, you are not making your bike prone to "sudden rear tire grip loss then lowside".


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cencalal
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« Reply #17 on: August 16, 2020, 04:49:49 PM »

Thanks for that on swingarm angle. I'd read enough going in that I didn't just get one of those "ride height adjusters" for the rear and just twist it all the way down.  First I removed 1 1/2" of foam from the seat, and when that didn't get me there, and lacking any useful input, I decided to just go for it when I found a set of 848 forks on Ebay for $300.  Low miles, perfect condition.  Same with the 1100 shock, $80.  I've lowered the front of every bike I've owned up to 3/4" and it's always been good.  That said, I'm not looking for track level performance, not with road conditions and traffic as they are these days.  Just want to be able to toss it around a bit and have it feel good, like my Monster!
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