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Author Topic: Starting (charging?) issue  (Read 4192 times)
d3vi@nt
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« on: July 19, 2020, 10:46:50 AM »

I had an issue after a several hour ride, where I would hit the starter button and would either get one crank, then nothing, or it would crank a couple times and start like normal. I figured it had to be the starter button, solenoid, or other because I replaced the battery last August with a Yuasa AGM and it's been on the tender ever since.

A few days later when I went to load test it, it didn't have enough juice to start.

I left it on the tender overnight and it was up to 13.26v this morning. I disconnected the tender and let the battery rest for a few hours. It maintained the same reading over that time.

At key-on it drops to 12.65v, and at start it drops to 11.9v and goes back up. So load test appears good. It idles around 12.7v and goes a bit higher the longer it idles. In the 3-4k rpm range, it reads around 13.5v.

I believe these values are in the 'normal' range for an AGM battery. Can anyone confirm?

I don't run any accessories. Typically ride with the high beam on for visibility, which hasn't been an issue in the past.

Any thoughts on what might be causing this apparent discharge during riding or what steps to take to figure out why it happened?
« Last Edit: July 19, 2020, 11:58:02 AM by d3vi@nt » Logged

'13 MTS GT
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« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2020, 12:17:19 PM »

3-phase or single phase charging system?
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #2 on: July 19, 2020, 01:50:18 PM »

3-phase or single phase charging system?
It's 3-phase.

I ran to get some gas in it and tested again after it had been running for a bit. It's starting fine with a full charge, as expected.  It idles right at 13v. With the high beam on, it drops below 13v. Holding rpm's steady at 2.5k, 3k and 4k it never gets above 13.58v.

Other posts I've come across indicate it should hit 14v and/or slightly above. I don't know if that's accurate for this bike, though.
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« Reply #3 on: July 19, 2020, 02:12:29 PM »

Check AC voltage across the 3 alternator wires with them unhooked and engine running,  should be ~ 16VAC at idle and get to 100 VAC by 5-6k rpm
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #4 on: July 20, 2020, 10:47:44 AM »

Thanks for the help. I'll give it a go here in a few. My multimeter and electrical skills are less than remedial at best.
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« Reply #5 on: July 20, 2020, 10:52:10 AM »

If you've got a helper to twist the throttle a little and hold the connector while you check voltage, it's easier.
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« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2020, 10:51:25 AM »

Finally got some time to dig into this.

The three yellow wires go to a plastic plug/coupling going to the RR that looks like it's able to be separated (plastic tab to depress).

I haven't had any luck disconnecting it.  bang head
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« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2020, 11:32:57 AM »

Finally got it disconnected. Fairly burnt inside but not horrible.

How does one extract the spade clips from the plastic housing?  I think a good clean could restore the connection but can't get to them with the plastic housing in the way.

Will test once clean.
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« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2020, 02:09:27 PM »

Small screwdriver, press down a tab releases clip.
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2020, 02:22:33 PM »

Thanks. Yes, looks like a plastic tab on the inside of the shroud. I finally got one out. The other two are being disagreeable.

Always amazes me how what should be a 15 minute jobs turns into 3 hours. Or more...
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2020, 04:10:29 PM »

Anyone know a source for these connectors?

The male side is good, the female side is too toasted to salvage.
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« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2020, 05:37:01 PM »

Check AC voltage across the 3 alternator wires with them unhooked and engine running,  should be ~ 16VAC at idle and get to 100 VAC by 5-6k rpm

I cut the connector off and tested at the bare wires.  All three combo's were consistent:
1.1k rpm ~ 17VAC
5k rpm ~ 70VAC

Enough to suffice? Or totally no bueno?
« Last Edit: August 02, 2020, 05:42:19 PM by d3vi@nt » Logged

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« Reply #12 on: August 03, 2020, 06:08:20 AM »

I cut the connector off and tested at the bare wires.  All three combo's were consistent:
1.1k rpm ~ 17VAC
5k rpm ~ 70VAC

Enough to suffice? Or totally no bueno?

Stator's fine.

Rick's Motorsport has connectors, Eastern Beaver too.

I've been toying with trying some of the connectors that the Electric RC folks use, they've got several sizes and they're gold plated and made for high current. No plastic shrouds, so it's a bit more DIY work.

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Reseda, CA

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~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
d3vi@nt
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« Reply #13 on: August 03, 2020, 08:55:45 AM »

Stator's fine.

Rick's Motorsport has connectors, Eastern Beaver too.

I've been toying with trying some of the connectors that the Electric RC folks use, they've got several sizes and they're gold plated and made for high current. No plastic shrouds, so it's a bit more DIY work.

Great. Thanks much.

Totally forgot about Eastern Beaver. This place was recommended over on ducati.ms, so I gave them a try:
http://www.cycleterminal.com
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'99 ST2
'07 M695 - Sold
Speeddog
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« Reply #14 on: August 03, 2020, 09:03:29 AM »

They've got a lot of stuff, that's cool!
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Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
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