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Author Topic: M750 budget suspension build, can it be done for $500?  (Read 3811 times)
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #15 on: March 28, 2020, 08:43:35 AM »

If the wheel is the issue, I have a 3 spoke wheel off a 748 that he can have for the price of shipping.

It's ugly gold color. Tongue
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l88m22vette
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« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2020, 10:30:14 AM »

25mm inner hollow front axle, 65mm caliper. I PM'd him, we'll see.

What's the consensus on the rear? ST2 adjustable with a new spring and longer heim joints for the hoop?
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« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2020, 11:10:14 AM »

I don't think ST2 will be anything close to plug and play.  What is on the bike now?  If it is OEM and still OK linear spring for your weight and maybe refresh the the oil and gas.  Raise the rear incrementally.  If I remember correctly you can go up about a half inch on the stock joints if they are now at factory height.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2020, 11:22:10 AM by howie » Logged
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« Reply #18 on: March 29, 2020, 12:13:47 PM »

ST2 is too short
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l88m22vette
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« Reply #19 on: March 29, 2020, 12:37:03 PM »

Yeah, 305mm travel vs 330mm on Monster. Ok, I have coilovers on my car and was hoping for adjustability all around. I've seen swingarms and other used OEM stuff really cheap, I wouldn't hate to convert so I can use the stuff for the updated frame/suspension but that's also its own project.
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« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2020, 01:24:59 PM »

Since vette's a big fella, just the correct spring will feel great.
I'm 200 sans gear and just a spring change made a huge difference to the stock shock. It gets you in the ball park on a budget. Then you experiment with damping clicks, and if not happy consider the next step down ghe foad when funds are available. At least you have a good spring for the next step.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2020, 01:32:04 PM by koko64 » Logged

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« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2020, 01:31:50 PM »

25mm inner hollow front axle, 65mm caliper. I PM'd him, we'll see.

What's the consensus on the rear? ST2 adjustable with a new spring and longer heim joints for the hoop?
That's correct
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l88m22vette
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« Reply #22 on: April 22, 2020, 01:45:03 PM »

I opened the uprights from Ddan, very excellent, thank you sir! I've been mulling over (and trolling classifieds) in the pursuit of the most perfect cheap-ass solution available, if only because I've got a month plus until my MSF class and might as well just do it "right" and be done.

Rant on.

I've done a little parts-bin digging for both the 851/888 and early Monsters, I've seen a few used shocks worth considering and still might pull the trigger. I'm trying to keep in perspective that I bought a new Tein setup w/EDFC for my Outback for less than $800 last year, I guess bikes and cars are apples to oranges but that's the price of a DU440 and you only get one!  Cry

1 - buy a new Ohlins DU044 for ~$500 with the correct spring rate, don't worry about the remote reservoir for attacking teh side streetz
2 - Get an ST shock, get 25mm (1") longer heims and a spring for maybe $200, there are dozens and they all have more support than the old stuff
3 - Wait for a used fancy shock (Ohlins, Hyperpro, whatever long forgotten early frame shock floats by) and rebuild it. I almost got a used 851 or 888 Marzocchi Duo Shock but its ancient and/or not worth the effort even when cheap, and generally used shocks don't save money

#3 brings in another discussion, the shock frequency and spring rate are quite different between the 851/888 and Monster because of orientation/geometry, so I'd assume that's true if using SS stuff or later ST swaps with the 749/799, etc. Basically, if you want to put some kind of SBK parts on a Monster assume revalve/respring necessary. The few used 330mm Ohlins I've seen would need $200+ for rebuild, new parts, etc., so its really only worth it if the shock is free or cheap, a used $300 shock will almost definitely cost more than a new one ordered to my specs.

I'm torn, if I go for it and get a 305mm shock for $75 I'll still need a $100 spring, that's assuming it's otherwise mint, I could end up needing it rebuilt and spending the $500 on an old Sachs or Showa instead of a new Ohlins. Ugh. I'm stuck in the rabbit hole.

End rant.
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ducpainter
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« Reply #23 on: April 22, 2020, 01:58:19 PM »

Buy the Ohlins...
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


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« Reply #24 on: April 22, 2020, 02:18:51 PM »

Buy the Ohlins...

+1

You'll breathe easier.
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« Reply #25 on: April 22, 2020, 02:23:45 PM »


new Tein setup w/EDFC for my Outback for less than $800 last year,


Manufacturing rate for car stuff is likely 100x whatever the peak was for what fits your bike.
Economy of scale is huge.

1 - buy a new Ohlins DU044 for ~$500 with the correct spring rate, don't worry about the remote reservoir for attacking teh side streetz
2 - Get an ST shock, get 25mm (1") longer heims and a spring for maybe $200, there are dozens and they all have more support than the old stuff
3 - Wait for a used fancy shock (Ohlins, Hyperpro, whatever long forgotten early frame shock floats by) and rebuild it. I almost got a used 851 or 888 Marzocchi Duo Shock but its ancient and/or not worth the effort even when cheap, and generally used shocks don't save money

#3 brings in another discussion, the shock frequency and spring rate are quite different between the 851/888 and Monster because of orientation/geometry, so I'd assume that's true if using SS stuff or later ST swaps with the 749/799, etc. Basically, if you want to put some kind of SBK parts on a Monster assume revalve/respring necessary. The few used 330mm Ohlins I've seen would need $200+ for rebuild, new parts, etc., so its really only worth it if the shock is free or cheap, a used $300 shock will almost definitely cost more than a new one ordered to my specs.

I'm torn, if I go for it and get a 305mm shock for $75 I'll still need a $100 spring, that's assuming it's otherwise mint, I could end up needing it rebuilt and spending the $500 on an old Sachs or Showa instead of a new Ohlins. Ugh. I'm stuck in the rabbit hole.

End rant.

1) Yes, or spend a bit more on a Penske of the same flavor.
    I have not tried one of the budget Ohlins, but the emulsion Penske is very good on a Gen1 frame.

2) No, ST shock is an inch too short and IMO you can't retrofit new ends on it for even your whole $500 budget

3) Ohlins or Penske.

3)Addendum

AFAIK Gen1 Monster and 851/888 are same rocker and swingarm geometry.

Go new or as near to new as you can.
The *newest* OEM parts you will find are going to be 20 years old.

Here's some Ohlins data, 330mm length cuts off a lot of potential donors.





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ducpainter
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« Reply #26 on: April 22, 2020, 02:31:10 PM »

Clear as mud. Grin
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


l88m22vette
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« Reply #27 on: April 22, 2020, 09:05:05 PM »

Good info but ugh that's what I mean laughingdp Sorry about the suspension comments, I'm happy to be wrong since it kind of gives me more choices, just trying to keep up with all the variance and possibilities. I went through the same thing when I did an engine swap on my Outback, I could have kept it simple but noooooo...

I've heard about and looked up Penskes, best price I've seen for the emulsion 8900 is $750 and at that point I get the Ohlins 440,the 2-way/3-way variations end up at $975 or $1175. They also seem to be a pain to deal with whereas Ohlins seems very accessible. There are some Euro brands/shocks to choose from but again, pricing.

I guess the answer to my thread question is basically no, aside from dumb luck, you can't really cheap out unless you own the 2002+ ST bikes. Ho hum, maybe I'll put it on credit.
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