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Author Topic: Need help with new bars  (Read 4044 times)
Timmy Tucker
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« on: October 25, 2019, 12:35:21 PM »

I've decided that I need different bars on my S4RS, as it's pretty uncomfortable as is. My M750 is damn comfy and I have done lots of 12-13 hour days on it, but I can't stay on the S4RS for more than an hour or 2 max before I'm make the beast with two backsing miserable. By my calculations, the S4RS bars sit approximately 3.5-4 inches lower and the outboard end of the grips are 2 inches further away from me than on the M750.

I've tried rotating the bars closer to me, but that didn't help much at all. The bike has a Matris steering damper, so I think that eliminates bar risers as an option. I'm not 100% sure about that, but I can't see any way it would work with risers due to the way it mounts. I'm thinking taller bars with a tighter bend (sorry, I don't know the correct term) are the easiest and cheapest way to go.

A few questions... I'm not having a lot of luck finding bars specific to this bike, what bar diameter should I be looking for? How tall can I go before I have to start changing hydraulic lines and shit like that. Any suggestions on bars? I'm not totally opposed to putting ADV or motocross bars on to make it work if I have to (I'd obviously rather not). I don't expect to make up the full difference between the two, but if I could gain at least 2 inches in height as well as get the grips closer to me, I think I could live with it. Any other tips or suggestions?
« Last Edit: October 25, 2019, 12:37:08 PM by Timmy Tucker » Logged

1999 M750 - "Piggy"
2007 S4RS
drval85
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« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2019, 01:35:03 PM »

I went with “euro style” handlebars from eBay, I think.  Slightly more upswept and set back.  Not sure of the diameter on your bike, though, I have a 695. Nice compromise without looking awkward.  There’s almost no extra slack left in the cables, however.  Wouldn’t be able to go any farther away without changing them. 

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ute
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« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2019, 03:05:40 PM »

Suburban Machinery bars are the best so comfortable but have been discontinued look around maybe you might get lucky and find some 

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stopintime
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« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2019, 02:33:36 AM »

IME it's almost only about the sweep back angle. Maybe for you too?

In that case, Rizoma. IIRC 24 degrees versus stock 18. Helps a lot. They have two or three heights with the same sweep back angle.
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stopintime
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« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2019, 02:36:01 AM »

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Rizoma replacement handlebars for tapered handlebar Monsters, Streetfighters, and Multis with conical tapered handlebar
Lightweight Aluminum construction with matte anodized finish

Four models now available.
Sport (MA011) provides a riding position similar to that of stock bar (15mm rise, 20 degree sweep)

Touring I (MA006) model provides a more comfortable riding position with 30mm rise and 27 degrees rear sweep for a more upright position

Touring II (MA009) model provides 50mm rise with a 25 degree sweep back

Drag Bar Model (MA015) provides 0 rise with 10 degrees of sweep

install note- bar comes without switchgear alignment holes pre-drilled. Holes can be drilled, or the alignment nubs removed prior to installation


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Timmy Tucker
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« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2019, 06:10:43 AM »

Sweep angle is the term I was looking for. Thank you! The 750 bars have a lot more sweep than the S4RS does. I tried rolling them back towards me about an inch or so, but it didn’t make a huge difference. It also made it so that I don’t have enough tank clearance for the steering lock to engage.

I was actually looking at the Pro Taper ADV bars, but they’re so much taller, I suspect that they will require longer cables. I’ll check out the Rizoma’s.
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S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2019, 09:02:09 AM »

With ADV bar, you will need longer brake line, throttle cable, and clutch line. (And electrical wires.)

With Pro Taper, even with the lowest rise model (which would be Carmichael bend, 40mm rise), the same story.
(because the hand controls will be placed further out.)

The real problem with OEM Magura handle bar is not just the height. Not enough sweep back angle and droop angle are the cause of the awkward position, not just the height.


I have Triumph speed triple's handle bar on my S4R.

It is also made by Magura.

Direct swap (other than drilling the holes for controls), don't have to change cables, brake & clutch lines.

The one that I have on my S4R (shown in the photo) is

Triumph part# T2090431 HANDLEBAR, TAPERED, ANODIZED
which is listed as 2008 - 2010 Speed Triple's handlebars.

You can order it from your local Triumph dealer with that part#.
Or, you can order it from Bikebandit.
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2008-triumph-speed-triple/o/m17670#sch570283

I had the photo of Speed Triple's handlebar right next to the stock S4R bar, on photobucket. Can't show it right now.

I like this bar, because, although it makes quite a bit difference in function, it looks like stock, no one would notice the bar has been swapped.
It doesn't change the way the bike looks.

I know I'm a minority here. I don't like "heavily customized" look. I want to retain as much "stock look" as possible.
So, it works for me, but if you are looking for something that's easily recognizable as aftermarket / custom parts, this isn't a good option.



Now, if you swap the handlebar to something with the rise and sweep back angle enough to actually makes difference,
you will have to adjust the steering lock stop.
Which means, you will lose steering lock function.

Also,you will loose a little bit of steering lock to lock angle.

You can install the Speed Triple bar without adjusting the lock stop, but, then the handle bar switch box and the fuel tank gets awfully close, if you ever drop the bike, the tank will get nice dimple.

Here's how mine looks like, at full lock position.



The clearance between the tank and the switch box is just about 10mm in this photo.
Actually, even my set up is a little too close. The handle bar will flex more than you'd think when the bike goes down.

If the bike is simply dropped while it is parked, then, it may be okay.
If the bike is moving, then, this much clearance is not enough.



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Timmy Tucker
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« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2019, 06:04:31 PM »

Thanks! I'll give those Triumph bars a whirl.
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JonS2R
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« Reply #8 on: October 29, 2019, 05:07:16 AM »

I've been through a handful of bar setups trying to find what fits me best. I finally settled on Triumph Tiger 1050 bars. They have more rise and sweep than stock and feel great for me. I only had to reroute my throttle cable...the rest of the cables just barely fit. My steering lock still works too.
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Timmy Tucker
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« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2020, 03:47:39 PM »

I hate to drag up an old post, but it made more sense than creating a new one.

I almost got the Triumph bars that several people recommended, but ended up getting a set of Rizoma MA009's instead because I could get them here quicker. They were a little more work to install than I anticipated, as I make the beast with two backsed up the right side control placement holes the first time. That, and the control cables were just barely long enough to work. It actually took 3 tries to get everything situated just right so it all worked. I did lose the steering lock function, but I'm not worried about that.

I'm super happy with these new bars, they are a huge improvement! Between these bars and the new pegs, the bike is actually comfortable for me to ride now and I feel a lot more in control. It's still not as comfy as my M750, but it's 1000% better than it was. And I'll never be doing long trips on this bike like I did the M750, as it only get 75 miles a tank.

I also threw on a new set of CRG Hindsights, because the Rizoma knockoffs it came with would fold up once I hit 45-50 mph.



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1999 M750 - "Piggy"
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stopintime
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« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2020, 12:57:53 AM »

Good to hear that your solution works so well  waytogo

If you're not using the old Rizoma mirror brackets, take them off and flip the master cylinders' bar bracket upside down  Cool
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Timmy Tucker
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« Reply #11 on: April 23, 2020, 07:04:45 AM »

Good to hear that your solution works so well  waytogo

If you're not using the old Rizoma mirror brackets, take them off and flip the master cylinders' bar bracket upside down  Cool

I hate to be dense, but maybe I’m missing something. I get what you’re telling me to do, as I’ve seen it on numerous other bikes. But if I did that, where would my reservoirs go?
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« Reply #12 on: April 23, 2020, 07:10:40 AM »

Or you cold get these:

https://monsterparts.com/collections/controls-1/products/corsair-billet-mirror-plug
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Timmy Tucker
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« Reply #13 on: April 23, 2020, 10:48:38 AM »


Perfect. Thanks!
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1999 M750 - "Piggy"
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stopintime
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« Reply #14 on: April 23, 2020, 02:56:34 PM »

I hate to be dense, but maybe I’m missing something. I get what you’re telling me to do, as I’ve seen it on numerous other bikes. But if I did that, where would my reservoirs go?

Ah, I didn't notice those. Maybe there are bolt holes on the masters?
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237,000 km/sixteen years - loving it
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