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Author Topic: Heat and ceramic coating exhaust  (Read 2134 times)
d3vi@nt
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« on: June 02, 2019, 09:04:23 AM »

Topic for discussion. 

The later Multistrada's  are known for cooking the rear brake fluid in short time causing degraded rear brake. Most theories include combined heat from exhaust and catalytic converter baking the brake line and MC. Others point to upper cylinder heat next to the ABS unit, however, front brakes are unaffected.

I'm contemplating ceramic coating inner/outer exhaust headers, as well as the cat. I've read various experiments using temp guns that show up to   +50% surface temp reduction. Jet-Hot quoted less than $200 for the job, which doesn't seem awful.

Given the rest of the motor puts out heat, I'm wondering how effective this might be overall? Might the rider cook less at idle/standstill? If the exhaust is presumably flowing more effectively, might the cylinder temps drop a bit?

Any feedback appreciated!
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« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2019, 09:37:25 AM »

I see no reason not to do it, budget allowing.  I would go with the Jet Hot, known product that should be able to take the heat of the cat, though if the cat does overheat badly it may not hold up.  Then again, the cat would probably fail from overheating anyway.
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stopintime
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« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2019, 09:48:42 AM »

Cat off?
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2019, 04:09:26 PM »

@howie; Thanks, sounds good. No idea what the cat limits are spec'd for, but I guess there's only one way to find out!

Cat off?
Long story. Ideally I'd like to drop the weight. But... on the Multi, all the muffling is done in the cat -the end pipes are straight through. So I'd have to replace the whole system, which is expensive and would require more $$'s for dyno + tune. Plus aftermarket with cat delete tend to be louder and stinkier, which I'm trying to avoid with this bike.

I'm still mulling my options. The cat is pretty heavy, and ugly too!
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Derekv
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« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2019, 06:02:08 AM »

Had my 2005 S4R exhaust (full arrow system) and the wife’s 2014 696 ceramic coated.  It difference for her, seat stays cooler.  Both look great.

Derek V
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greenmonster
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2019, 07:10:44 AM »

Seen posts about a 2013 uppgrade, heat shield and different brake fluid remeding this problem.
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2019, 12:19:34 PM »

Seen posts about a 2013 uppgrade, heat shield and different brake fluid remeding this problem.

Yes, I've seen that video and it seems to be the best synopsis. Trouble (for me) is that the SRF only comes in liter bottles and costs almost $70, so I'd be paying a lot of money to throw out a bunch of leftover fluid every year or two. 

I figure if the heat is enough to cook brake fluid, it will probably impact longevity of other parts in the area and probably best to attempt to remedy issue, if at all possible.

I've read of folks using the MC heat shield and also folks who removed the cat and still had issues. It's just not clear if those cases were due to heat still, or potentially just bad bleed.

Lots of questions surrounding the issue. Thinking about the exhaust coating as a potential long-term fix. Just don't know if that will do it or not.
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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2019, 03:35:10 PM »

This is a chronic problem on many of the bikes with ABS.
The rear brake line routing is a veritable furnace.

I spoke today with Jeff Gehrs at Braketech and got some 411.
Previous versions of high boiling point brake fluid were very very hygroscopic.
OK on a race/track bike that gets the fluid flushed every event or so.
Not practical for the average rider.

Recent high b/p fluids are far better in that respect.
Braketech has Ferodo FSF050 available in 0.5 liter bottles for ~$30.
Wet b/p is 200C/392F, dry 330C/626F.
It falls within DOT4 specs, so it's legal for road use (not sure how a DIY'er would fall afoul of that, but there you go).
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d3vi@nt
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« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2019, 04:05:38 PM »

Awesome. Great info, thanks for sharing!
The rear brake line routing is a veritable furnace.
Any thoughts on if it's a specific heat source, or just cumulative heat? The front line routing must be different enough as it's not an issue.

I contemplated something like this: https://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Brand/Heatshield-Sleeving/Heatshield-HP-Builder-Kits-trade-Brake-Lines

...but don't know if I'd even be able to get to the line without major disassembly.
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« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2019, 05:20:13 PM »

Some monsters have ABS modules under the tank, perhaps all, I've not been running a checklist.

They route two hard lines (feed/return) from the rear master cylinder area, up between the vertical cylinder headpipe and the cylinder itself.

That may very well be the hottest zone on the whole bike, other than inside the motor or the exhaust.

It's baffling, makes zero sense to me.

Perhaps you could sneak some sheilding in there.
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« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2019, 06:40:30 PM »

The pretzle maze ABS hose routing on my Monster is probably it's worst enemy... the heat buildup is just window dressing.  I've considered just DX'ing the ABS module, but it certainly has it's merits.  My previous road bike was a Honda CBR1000F... with the linked brakes.  I learned to really like that system, even with the complexity it brought with it... but it was idiot proof, and it worked with no electronics.

I want to ceramic coat my exhaust... but that is largely to keep my left leg from catching fire in slow traffic.  The switch to non-cat slip-ons helped, but that pipe right up under your thigh always tells you its there.
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