Won't start again different issue this time!

[Ken Masters]

Howdy All!

Thanks again for last time, new battery sorted the problem.

I have a different issue this time and need your expert advice please.

Recap: Monster 695 2007 just over 7000 miles on the clock.

The problem: So we are getting some nice weather here in the UK so I took her out for a spin last night.
The bike started up fine but after about 20 mins of highly enjoyable riding, she conked out whilst I was on the move! I coasted to the side of the road and tried to start her but no joy.
My first thought was maybe she ran out of petrol and i didn't notice the light so I put some petrol in. Still no start.

The symptoms: after turning the key the needles in the dash go from side to side and when I turn the key she turns over nicely but the engine won't fire up!

My thoughts: After wheeling her home (what a workout that was) and trying to start her in my quiet garage I noticed that there is no fuel pump whine after turning the key!

I have not changed the fuel filter and despite buying some fuel cleaner simply forgot to use it.
Could it be the fuel filter needs changing - if the filter is clogged will this stop the normal fuel whine on start up?

Is there something simple I'm missing??
(checked the kill switch and black rectangular fuse box and rubber tubes under the tank but no joy)

I'm going to start searching the forum for similar threads now but any help appreciated.

Thanks

[ducpainter]

Check the connector underneath the tank. There should be 4 wires.

I believe the red wire is the power feed for the pump. When the key is switched on it should be 'hot' for about 10 seconds. If you have voltage there when you switch the key on then the problem is either the wiring between the connector and the pump, or the pump itself. If no voltage, the problem would be the relay, wiring, or ecu.

Depending on how Ducati kills that motor through the kill switch, either ignition or fuel, the wiring harness where it passes by the steering head might be the issue if the switch shuts off the pump.

If your bike has a plastic tank, the wiring that passes through the pump flange has been problematic.

[Ken Masters]

Thanks Duc will try this out..
 

[Howie]

Also try bypassing the fuel injection relay and see if the pump works.  Terminal 30 to terminal 87.

[Speeddog]

Sounds like your charging system isn't functioning and you've run the battery flat.

[Ken Masters]

Thanks Howie, in a way I'm kind of hoping it is the relay..
 

[Ken Masters]

Sounds like your charging system isn't functioning and you've run the battery flat.

But the bike turns over quite strongly, it just won't fire up?

[Howie]

It wouldn't hurt to check the charging system anyway.  Battery and charging are the heart of your FI bike.

[Speeddog]

But the bike turns over quite strongly, it just won't fire up?

RIF, sorry, missed that.
Carry on.

[Ken Masters]

OK Duc, Howie, Speeddog, guys,

Thanks for your quick replies; I spent a little time with the bike last night.

Disclaimer - feel free to rip the hell out of me, I'm not very good with electrics at all and its my fault for daydreaming during physics at school!!

Duc - I found  the 4 wire connector under the tank including the red one. I turned the key to on and touched my voltmeter negative pin  to the negative terminal of the battery and the red positive pin to the red cable and also with a paper clip touching the red cable. I even tried the same with the voltmeter negative pin touching the bike frame. No voltage showing every time.
Am I testing this in the right way? Feel like I am doing something wrong..

Howie - I found two black relays next to the battery and they click on operation but I didn't test ohms resistance as I didn't have any clips or a power source.
I bridged the one on the left with a paper clip 30 to 87 and noticed the headlight turns on when I turn the key same as when the relay is in there.
I bridged the one on the right the same way and nothing seemed to happen, no lights or fuel pump noise.
Is the one on the right the fuel pump relay then?
I also tried swapping the relays round..

Should I buy some new relays?
Also even though it is a new battery should I charge it - if the battery is not fully charged would this affect the fuel pump priming process?

I also swapped the 20a injector fuse with the spare..

Thanks and sorry for all the amateur questions!

[ducpainter]

It would be better to make your voltmeter connections before you turn the key. You only have about 10 seconds.

Since you bridged the relay, and got no pump when you switched the key on, it seems you have a wiring, or ecu problem.

How comfortable do you feel cutting into the harness where it winds it's way past the steering head? That's a common area on Monsters for a failure.

Also, do you have a steel, or plastic tank?

[Ken Masters]

Thanks Duc I was pretty quick but will try again tonight to be safe - if I have the positive/red pin from my voltmeter touching the red cable on the connector and the negative pin touching the negative terminal of the battery and then get a pal to turn the key to on - I should be getting a voltmeter reading straight away right?

I have a plastic tank.

Re cutting the harness, I'm happy to give it a go but would need some guidance if possible..

[Howie]

I don't remember which is which, but the one you bridged is the main, the other is FI.  If you just want to replace the relay it is cheap enough. 

[ducpainter]

I don't remember which is which, but the one you bridged is the main, the other is FI.  If you just want to replace the relay it is cheap enough. 

He bridged both relays, howie.

Yes, the ecu sends a voltage signal to the pump soon after the key is switched on that lasts about 10 seconds. There are two wires in that connector that are live, and two that are grounds. I believe that the red one is the pump feed, but I could be wrong. The other is for the fuel level sender.

I suspect you have an issue with the wiring where it enters the pump flange. Very common issue that can be repaired. If I'm right, you should have voltage at that connector when you switch the key on. Test all the wires. If one is 'hot' when you turn on the key, and then the voltmeter goes to zero shortly, that is the pump wire, and the problem is the wiring entering the flange.

[Howie]

He bridged both relays, howie.

Yes, the ecu sends a voltage signal to the pump soon after the key is switched on that lasts about 10 seconds. There are two wires in that connector that are live, and two that are grounds. I believe that the red one is the pump feed, but I could be wrong. The other is for the fuel level sender.

I suspect you have an issue with the wiring where it enters the pump flange. Very common issue that can be repaired. If I'm right, you should have voltage at that connector when you switch the key on. Test all the wires. If one is 'hot' when you turn on the key, and then the voltmeter goes to zero shortly, that is the pump wire, and the problem is the wiring entering the flange.

That's what happens when you answer a phone call between reading and answering

Brown/white wire.