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Author Topic: Cleaning and Painting a DS1000  (Read 348 times)
rdtompk
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« on: February 27, 2019, 04:50:08 AM »

Hey folks,

Looking at removing the engine and giving it a solid clean and since it may be out, maybe stripping and repainting?  Looking for thoughts and suggestions on how/if to go about doing this.

Initially I'm considering getting it soda blasted then painting it myself with VHT.

Will the soda blasting get all the old paint off? If not, is getting ALL the old paint of necessary?

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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2019, 08:47:37 AM »

You don't need to remove all the old paint. Anything that's still stuck will likely stay stuck. The most important part is getting it clean before soda blasting.

I'd make covers/plugs for any opening, use a good degreaser, and pressure wash the motor. Sherwin-Williams sells a product called Hurrisafe that is paint safe...won't cause fisheyes. Let it dry and have it blasted.

If you handle it without touching the surface you should be able to paint it at that point without any further prep besides blowing the soda dust off. If you handle it with bare hands you can just wash it with Hurrisafe again and let it dry.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2019, 08:50:15 AM by ducpainter » Logged

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buzzer
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2019, 08:51:32 AM »

Its a painful job getting all of the paint off...  I have seen some that have been soda blasted and they came up quite well...  Best to get as much paint off first though.

if you are painting it, use an etch primer, or you will be back to square one in no time.  I am also not a fan of the VHT paint, some of it is really crap and comes off with solvent.  Some of its OK though, depends on which you use.  I have done a few engines in 2K with a matting agent, which takes the gloss down, this is very durable.

I have just done a 1000 DS engine in bare alloy...  big job though!



Where you based?
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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2019, 09:03:32 AM »

I've done the same buzzer, except I prefer epoxy primer on bare aluminum.

After a couple of heat cycles the 2K paint is like nails.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
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"Never provoke old men. They can’t run and they won’t be beaten. All they have left is to shoot you.”


buzzer
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« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2019, 11:34:31 AM »

I've done the same buzzer, except I prefer epoxy primer on bare aluminum.

After a couple of heat cycles the 2K paint is like nails.

is Epoxy primer the same as 2K primer Ducpainter?
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ducpainter
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« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2019, 11:44:06 AM »

is Epoxy primer the same as 2K primer Ducpainter?
Not exactly.

2K usually refers to a 2 component urethane. All automotive type epoxies require an activator. Urethane primers don't offer the corrosion protection, or adhesion, to bare aluminum that epoxy does. If you want to use a urethane over aluminum you need to hit it with an etching primer, or Alodine, first. You still won't get the corrosion protection that epoxy offers.

The only downside to epoxies is they don't have quite the heat resistant capabilities of urethanes. I haven't had trouble using it on complete engines. The surface doesn't get as hot as you think.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Never provoke old men. They can’t run and they won’t be beaten. All they have left is to shoot you.”


rdtompk
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« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2019, 04:29:24 PM »

I'm in Mass, north and west of Boston a bit.

Thank you all very much for your insight and help

Sounds like an etching primer with a 2k (high temp?) might be the way to go after a thorough pressure washing/degreasing.  Does all the paint need to be removed to use an etching primer, which from my google-fu seems to be for bare metal?

That bare engine looks fantastic, and as you mention also looks like a massive amount of work.


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ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2019, 06:12:35 PM »

The etching primer will also stick to the old paint.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
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    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Never provoke old men. They can’t run and they won’t be beaten. All they have left is to shoot you.”


Langanobob
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« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2019, 03:35:16 PM »

I like epoxy primer too.   ducpainter please correct me if I'm wrong but I think there's a 24 hr window after it's been applied for it to be finished coated.  More than 24 hours and you have to thoroughly scuff it up to get a good bond?

About bare aluminum alloy, back in the day we used to coat small polished parts with sodium silicate and bake them in an oven.  Comes out with a very long lasting gloss finish.  We did this to old Britbikes because it also sealed porous castings.   Not something to try without experimenting on old parts first.  Your gf's reaction to finding motorcycle engine parts in the oven is also a time tested method for determining if she might be a keeper.
« Last Edit: February 28, 2019, 03:37:12 PM by Langanobob » Logged
ducpainter
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« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2019, 04:12:03 PM »

I like epoxy primer too.   ducpainter please correct me if I'm wrong but I think there's a 24 hr window after it's been applied for it to be finished coated.  More than 24 hours and you have to thoroughly scuff it up to get a good bond?

About bare aluminum alloy, back in the day we used to coat small polished parts with sodium silicate and bake them in an oven.  Comes out with a very long lasting gloss finish.  We did this to old Britbikes because it also sealed porous castings.   Not something to try without experimenting on old parts first.  Your gf's reaction to finding motorcycle engine parts in the oven is also a time tested method for determining if she might be a keeper.
Epoxies generally have a longer window than 24 hours.

I'd have to look at the tech sheet, but I believe the PPG product I use is 72 hours, maybe longer, and if you exceed that a quick scuff with a red scotch-brite and a single coat of product...reduced like a sealer...makes it all better. That's the beauty of epoxy. It sticks to everything, and most everything, worth using, sticks to it.
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"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Never provoke old men. They can’t run and they won’t be beaten. All they have left is to shoot you.”


rdtompk
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« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2019, 04:17:34 AM »

This is all great info, guys.  I appreciate your insights!
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