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Author Topic: Frustrated, am I a bad owner? Will still fix her but for sure sell her this time  (Read 2288 times)
Qomomoko
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« on: February 06, 2019, 11:46:19 AM »

SHORT STORY:: (A)
MY RANT:: (B)

What trouble shooting am I missing???  coffee

A:: Was riding  on 45 mph street, temperatures got to 220 deg F. Stop at a light, start moving and engine turns off. Hold the clutch, hit the start button and riding again. On that same ride she did it again and I might have been in neutral or letting off the gas and turned off.
      Today, after doing several check on the battery, mosfet regulator and stator, did the same thing but while I was on the gas going from 1st to 2nd gear. This time we were at 180 deg F.

I want to sell her but even then still need to fix issue.

B:: I am starting to hate the bike!!! LOL  bang head

Issues that might be related::
* she has 28k miles, valves were checked or adjusted at 17k miles by previous owner in early year 2000's. I have not gotten them adjusted because I am cheap and was procrastinating doing it myself; did speak with two shops and the quote was around $500 to $700. I even the both belt already ordered to replace as well.
* The batter is a Shorai lithium 18 amp battery. Shorai says battery ok but from their literature I believe the voltage it holds is too low. After a full charge to 14.4 V, the battery will sit at 13.3 V and each cell at appx 3.32
* I has an electric (air) horn to make it sound better when beeping; I plugged a pair of the connectors for the old horns. I have seen my lights dim when I honk and thought maybe I am sucking too much juice from the battery. I used a clamp meter and believe I saw 5 amps when pressing the horn being used. I took horn off and put 1 of the previous horns on.
*just replaced both sprockets from stock to 15/41 and a red EK chain Smiley . Look great but I am having trouble aligning the sprocket. After readjusting the chain slack to 1 1/16 then noticed (after riding 100 miles) that the tyre was super close to the chain and so I figured must not be centered as I have never seen it so close to the chain. Also, when I spin the rear wheel it has a had spot and can’t figure out why!!! Even with the axle loose and the chain adjusters loose to allow play, I cannot find the sweet spot smooth tyre rotation. I thought it might be the rear brake pads. I then but the bike on 1st on the rear stand with the clutch barely out and squeezed the rear brake to help smooth out the pads a tad in case. Both sides chain adjuster markings are within 1/16 of an inch.
*Tyres are 4012 marking, I got them in 2013 ish. They probably have 2-3k miles. My S4 spends a lot of time down while I fix or replace parts. Bike is always covered and on stand away from Sun when I do not ride back to back days. I keep tyre pressure F/R 31/30. At the track I do not remember, it has been so long!!!

Think once I fix issue I hope to sell her, be nice if I can get $6k for her after issue fixed and the valves are checked/ adjusted. Based on Miami craigslist, I will be lucky if some one offers me $3k within 2 weeks of posting.

* I had read to expect 1-2 ohms for the stator coils; mine were .3 ohm all of them and OL to ground. After letting the bike heat up to 220 deg F, they were .8 ohms each and OL to ground. .8 is low enought but the double from cool  I am not sure if normal.

*Battery off reads 13.32 V and at idle then hovers around 14.25 V and at 5k RPM it is a steady 14.33 V.

I wont even start looking at her replacement lol yet.... Wink

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greenmonster
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« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2019, 12:31:32 PM »

Checked side stand neutral switch?
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Qomomoko
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« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2019, 05:11:19 PM »

good idea thanks, the stand kill switch has been bypassed by first owner but I will check it out!!

Will also look at both spark plugs and replace; I have never replaced them I believe.
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Howie
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« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2019, 09:33:32 PM »

https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources

13.3 is 90%, could be normal since there is some parasitic drain and you are not really charging at idle, particularly when the fans come on.  

I'm not really following your chain alignment problem, but you might want to make sure the front sprocket is the correct offset.

Might be worth it to get the bike to a good shop and spend the $$, base settings need to be correct before you can do proper diagnosis on your intermittent stalling problem.  That includesvalve adjustment, cam timing, valve clearance, TPS, throttle synch and more.

You might even find your love affair with the bike renewed when you get it back.

« Last Edit: February 06, 2019, 09:36:04 PM by howie » Logged
Qomomoko
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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2019, 05:53:05 AM »

https://www.electrosport.com/pages/technical-resources

13.3 is 90%, could be normal since there is some parasitic drain and you are not really charging at idle, particularly when the fans come on.  

I'm not really following your chain, TPS, throttle synch and more.

You might even find your love affair with the bike renewed when you get it back.

Yeah .. will do.. the valve job is too much a hassle for me at the moment ...

After she works well I will get her the red seat cowl she deserves... and maybe a slipper clutch by end of year


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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2019, 07:43:13 AM »

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73379.msg1351052#msg1351052

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Qomomoko
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« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2019, 09:25:15 AM »

Done!
Will post video of Tyre to see what y’all think..
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Heath
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« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2019, 11:09:23 AM »

I agree with getting it to  a good shop. I feel like I am really good on maintenance with my bike. I do my own oil changes. I keep her clean and lubed up where she needs to be. Even with all that, after I have a major service done the bike feels different. My mechanic checks so many things and calls me if something needs to be changed out. Or even warns me when something will need to be changed out soon. The bike feels different.
You say the bike hasn't had a major service a while. Your tires are over 6 years old and that pressure sounds low. Id do the service, ride the rest out of those tires and change them within the next year for sure. You will fall in love with your bike again.
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Qomomoko
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« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2019, 12:45:23 PM »

Wink
Got to shops to choose from. One is where I go it originally used, the shop was selling on behalf of a client. He is aweseome and is a track mechanic/racer helper; got the tyres from him. The bike when I got it would bog down every once in a while; he and the owner said I needed to ride it harder. I had the ECU changed/reflashed by some one else and she got fixed. The other shop he does track days and amateur racing and support; will 80% chance go with him. He will leave her super nice, nothing like a trouble free ride lol.
31/30 is what I usually run and at the track even lower, maybe 30/28. Will look into pressure in case I am riding to low .





I agree with getting it to  a good shop. I feel like I am really good on maintenance with my bike. I do my own oil changes. I keep her clean and lubed up where she needs to be. Even with all that, after I have a major service done the bike feels different. My mechanic checks so many things and calls me if something needs to be changed out. Or even warns me when something will need to be changed out soon. The bike feels different.
You say the bike hasn't had a major service a while. Your tires are over 6 years old and that pressure sounds low. Id do the service, ride the rest out of those tires and change them within the next year for sure. You will fall in love with your bike again.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2019, 12:48:20 PM by Qomomoko » Logged
Howie
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« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2019, 11:49:54 AM »

Rule of thumb is motorcycle tires should not be more than six years old.  IMO, low mileage, stored in a cool place, not near anything producing ozone you can go longer.  In your case, while sorting the bike I might just ride cautiously on those tires, then replace them.  30 PSI is too low for the street.

Now, to the video.  You have run-out at the sprocket and the wheel.  Since the tire is a much larger diameter it is more obvious at the tire.  Not sure why.  My suggestion is remove the rear wheel and check everything including wheel bearings.  When reinstalling measure from the center of the swing arm pivot to the center of the axle.  Often the hash marks are off. 
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Boris
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« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2019, 04:14:07 AM »

That's 190 tire. S4/S4R/S4RS use 180/55-17 tire. No wonder your tire is close to the chain.
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Qomomoko
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« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2019, 10:35:43 PM »

That's 190 tire. S4/S4R/S4RS use 180/55-17 tire. No wonder your tire is close to the chain.

that is true.. but the tyre before was also a 190.
I lined up the chain better Wink

Now I have a misterious water coolant system issue LOL.. well.. got to ride her for a couple of hundred miles.
Parts ordered and received; coolant hose and radiator cap.
Should be running within a week and then I sell her for sure lol kidding
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koko64
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« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2019, 11:53:30 PM »

Different tyre brands vary jn actually size despite the same markings. Check with your tyre guy as to which mfr sells a wider or narrower 180 or 190. Ime some Dunlop 180's are as wide as other brands 190's.
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