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Author Topic: S2R 1000 new clutch time...change friction plates only?  (Read 2405 times)
Speeddog
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RIP Nicky


« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2019, 06:37:47 AM »

ftp://
Are those Jon's?

No, just my dodgy pic of some used steels from a takeoff pack.
Not as easy to photograph as see in real life.
Best I've got so far to show the gaps that need to be eliminated.
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JonS2R
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« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2019, 09:01:45 AM »

I'm making progress! I checked the flatness of all steels on a glass table top (after rubbing them all on 220 grit sheets of sandpaper to bring them to a silver finish). I laid them down on both sides and just pushed down around the edge to see if the opposite side lifted up. All but two were flat. One would lift ever so slightly and the other was noticeably worse. I put everything back in and the drag seems to be almost gone. Neutral is still tough to get into but not quite as difficult as before. I should finally be able to ride once the weather clears up later today. I'll get a couple of plates from Speeddog to replace those two. I put them in last so they'll be easy swap out.
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2007 S2R 1000
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« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2019, 09:42:05 AM »

Is one warped (possibly outermost) and one the convex plate (which should go into the middle of the stack)? Iirc, I've seen the convex plate second from the base for oem and Barnett and others have it mid stack. Convex is usually the thinnest plate. The order may have changed over time for oem too. I run the convex mid pack as a default if there are no installation instructions with the pack.

Make sure one of those plates you think is warped isn't the convex plate.
« Last Edit: February 24, 2019, 10:13:01 AM by koko64 » Logged

2015 Scrambler 800
JonS2R
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« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2019, 04:33:01 PM »

The convex plate is not one of the two warped ones I found.

Everything was fine when I rode the bike earlier. It shifted well and neutral was easier to find again after riding it. The only thing I'd like to work on, if I can, is being able to run the lever closer to the bars. I used to have it on the 2nd to closest setting before but had to run it all of the way out to be able to get into neutral and shift smoothly. I have small hands so it's quite a reach to squeeze the lever. Can I adjust the plunger that pushes into the mast cylinder? My only hesitation with that is I know it will block the return port if it's too far out...

Thanks for all the help guys  waytogo
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2007 S2R 1000
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« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2019, 05:47:06 PM »

The convex plate is not one of the two warped ones I found.
waytogo  in some packs it's not so obvious.

It's an issue. I have short fat fingers and it is a compromise between clutch throw and comfy reach. Angling the lever cluster to an optimum posn helps a little. Some lever styles fit the hand better. Adjusting the lever screw to just within spec may help and allow that closer lever posn.
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2015 Scrambler 800
ducpainter
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DILLIGAF


« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2019, 05:53:01 PM »

If you have coffin masters, you can watch the fluid return into the reservoir as you adjust the screw, and then suddenly stop when you go too far.

Not as easy with Goldlines.
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