2003 M1000Sie won’t start, kinda

[Hunleysfriend]

This is a problem somebody’s had, seen or heard about hopefully. My brothers monster had been sitting in a garage for a few months. A “friend” of his started it several times with a jump being needed the last few times.
I drained the old gas, replaced the plugs and battery. Bike will not start properly. That’s to say it won’t fire with the enricher on and start button pushed. It’ll kind of start with a couple twists of the throttle. Won’t idle, won’t rev. I suspected the ECU module might be fried from jumping it so I sent it off to Avanti Racing to have it checked. They said the chip was fine and returned it. Bike is still unable to run consistently so no change. If I can’t figure this out I’m dragging it off to the dealer in Louisville.
I’m thinking I might try a noid light to check injector signal? I’m at a loss.

[ducpainter]

What's the battery voltage?

[Hunleysfriend]

13 VDC

[ducpainter]

Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key on?

Regarding the ECU, the chip can be fine while the ECU itself, is not.

[Howie]

As ducpainter said, first make sure the battery is top notch, that means have it load tested!  The lever you are turning is a fast idle lever not an enrichment lever.  Have you let the bike idle a bit after starting?  If the ECU is at stock settings a bit of warm up with the fast idle lever on or part on, depending on temperature at about 1400 rpm for a half minute or so may be needed.

[BikeGuy]

Hi all, my thoughts...

From cold, check both cylinders are firing (confirms coils, HT leads, plugs and ecu): carefully feel for heat from both headers after about 15 seconds or running from cold, confirm both headers get hotter about same rate/time.

if both produce heat then it's possibly fuel supply, need to check fuel line pressure as possible fuel filter blockage also injectors could be clogged from stale fuel.

If firing on one cylinder then swap coils and HT leads, plugs and re-test if same cylinder or other cylinder is firing, replace each swapped item and re-test until item identified.

If still in doubt then trace all wiring for signs or breakage/ware/shorting, repair/replace/insulate.

If still bad then check throttle body balance, vacuum hoses and air box leaks.

Finally, drain all fuel, inspect fuel pump filter mesh, resupply new good fuel and fuel filter.

Hope this helps.

Sean
Canberra region, Australia

[Hunleysfriend]

When key is turned, pump runs till it reaches pressure (I’m assuming). The idle lever has no effect. Battery is Lithium Ion and new. The bike had this problem prior to battery swap tho. Both pipes produce heat while it kind of runs.

This bike won’t stay running for long either. Seems like operating the throttle constantly might keep it running longer than if left alone (which results in it dying immediately). During the time I’m fiddling with the throttle the bike backfires, revs, dies, picks up again but won’t run at a steady speed no matter what.

Fuel system blockage seems like a possibility. I’ve never monkeyed with FI bikes before. Was hoping this would be solved with tire pressure change...... jk

[Speeddog]

~~~SNIP~~~
(I’m assuming).
~~~SNIP~~~

I'll bet you a quarter one of your fuel lines inside the tank is perforated.

[koko64]

Get that lithium battery properly charged and tested. 13V is getting low for one of those. 13 would be very full for a "normal" battery, but dont be fooled, lithium batteries are really 13V batteries so closer to 14-14.5 is 100% fully charged. If in doubt borrow a charged AGM battery.

Then check what the others have suggested after doing the battery stuff. Some very knowledgable guys have identified some items that hate sitting around in old fuel.

[Howie]

I'll bet you a quarter one of your fuel lines inside the tank is perforated.

Good possibility!  Open cap while pump is priming and look for bubbles.

Get that lithium battery properly charged and tested. 13V is getting low for one of those. 13 would be very full for a "normal" battery, but dont be fooled, lithium batteries are really 13V batteries so closer to 14-14.5 is 100% fully charged. If in doubt borrow a charged AGM battery.

Then check what the others have suggested after doing the battery stuff. Some very knowledgable guys have identified some items that hate sitting around in old fuel.

If in doubt borrow a charged AGM battery

  Best, since there is no reliable field test for those batteries yet.  New does not mean good, that is why they come with warranties.

[Hunleysfriend]

How does a fuel line get perforated? Not doubting you, just wondering. I’ll check for bubbles this afternoon. Also I’ll take a proper metered reading on the battery which has been on a tender for two nights now. Thankyou for these suggestions. Helping to save someone money is a true act of kindness.

[ducpainter]

Even fuel line that is rated for submersion in fuel is subject to deterioration, and eventual failure. Ethanol compounds the issue.

NAPA sells immersion rated fuel line by the foot... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBGH209

Edit...One on Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27086-Submersible-Fuel-Line/dp/B005806IXA/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005806IXA&pd_rd_r=6c80a246-1fe2-11e9-a70d-111bfdf2d087&pd_rd_w=yOL2N&pd_rd_wg=kJCz2&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=7P3CFWMRCDFWK36D2CJ2&psc=1&refRID=7P3CFWMRCDFWK36D2CJ2

[Hunleysfriend]

The ECU was mentioned being different from the part I had checked. After looking at a parts breakdown I see I had the ICU module checked. It was found good with a stock MAP intact. I don’t see an ECU listed on the Ducati of Omaha’s schematic. Are they housed in the same part?

[ducpainter]

Terminology...the ICU on a Duc controls both injection and ignition.

I just call it an ECU...electronic control unit.

[Hunleysfriend]

Gotcha. Ok, battery reads 13.45 VDC. No bubbles seen in tank. I'm draining it as I type. Think I'll remove it and eliminate the hoses and filter as a possibility.