Repair Manual for 2000 M900 needed (leaking gear thingy under valve belts)

[Allaband]

Hello, I have a 2000 Monster 900ie with an oil leak. I need to find a good repair manual to show me how to fix it. Can anyone recommend a repair manual or lead me to a link for one? I got a digital repair manual from the previous owner but it's in 4 languages and pretty much impossible to decipher.

Or, maybe someone can help me find a tutorial for this specific job? The leak is coming from under that main valve belt gear. The central gear that turns both valve belts. I assume I just need to pull off the belts, remove that gear, and replace an oil seal under there. I'm guessing it's not a terribly hard job but I want to make sure I do it right. I'll replace the valve belts at the same time because I'm not sure how old they are and I'm liberal with the throttle.

Thanks for any help!

[koko64]

You can get a Haynes manual and Desmotimes desmodue supplement manual. You will need special tools like castle nut sockets, torque wrench, and pulley holder. Our sponsors may be able to point you in the right direction for tools. HDESA (hope I got that right) also provide special tools.

Do a search here as someone did this job not that long ago.

[Spain]

I can't take the credit for creating the walk-through, just for holding on to a good tutorial. Name is credited in the file.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AmfypdwafvUThwO2qtK6cYUen-EHtN7Z/view?usp=sharing

[Speeddog]

Did a fast review of that link, and it's pretty good.

I've not seen that seal staked on any bike I've had on my table.
Someone staked his, but it's not a common thing for sure.

CAUTION
The ringnut on that pulley is very tight, and it *absolutely* needs to be.
If that nut gets loose, it will QUICKLY wallow out the keyways on that shaft.
In ~10 years, I've seen 3 examples of this, 100% correlation, and *zero* examples of damaged keyways when the nut is tight.
At that point, you can either:
A) Notice that the bike isn't running so well due to random valve timing, and find the problem.
B) Not notice, and keep riding until the valves start hitting pistons and hammer a bunch of other stuff too.

Either way, replacement of a ruined layshaft requires removing the motor and splitting the cases.
It may be obvious, but I'll confirm it.
That's an expensive repair.

[GK]

I had this layshaft seal leak last year. It took me a while to nail down the source of the leak.

I wasn’t confident enough to have a crack at it, so I got a good mechanic to do it.

That tutorial looks good. I didn’t see that last year.

[stopintime]

This was my version of a leaking seal 

[ducpainter]

This was my version of a leaking seal 

Damn, you're hard on equipment.

[stopintime]

Damn, you're hard on equipment.

Not at all    It was just that version of my engine's way of telling me where the limit is for a lightened, balanced, almost pure race tuned and willingly red lining small case engine. Maybe the worst was how throttle responsive it was - from 1 to 100 hp in a split second - NO hesitation.

Besides the value (?) of this thread jack: check while you're there 

[DuciD03]

Hello, I have a 2000 Monster 900ie with an oil leak.

The leak is coming from under that main valve belt gear. The central gear that turns both valve belts. I assume I just need to pull off the belts, remove that gear, and replace an oil seal under there. I'm guessing it's not a terribly hard job but I want to make sure I do it right. I'll replace the valve belts at the same time because I'm not sure how old they are and I'm liberal with the throttle.

Thanks for any help!

I had that same seal leak on an 07 s2r 1K, almost same engine; (100 more cc's; and probably some more horses too ); I needed the valves serviced and before that belts replaced; the mechanic said it was a 10 minute job after the belts and covers are off; so let him do it all; cost more - but piece of mind.

you will need special castle nut tool
and torques (and locktight? )
belts back on correctly etc;
may be better to pay the expert mechanic, with so many items to do spacificly well ... and as per  speeddogs cautions ...

Post and let us know how it goes; I'm home mechanically inclined; and have found sometimes it just ain't worth the worry.

CAUTION
The ringnut on that pulley is very tight, and it *absolutely* needs to be.
If that nut gets loose, it will QUICKLY wallow out the keyways on that shaft.
In ~10 years, I've seen 3 examples of this, 100% correlation, and *zero* examples of damaged keyways when the nut is tight.
At that point, you can either:
A) Notice that the bike isn't running so well due to random valve timing, and find the problem.
B) Not notice, and keep riding until the valves start hitting pistons and hammer a bunch of other stuff too.

Either way, replacement of a ruined layshaft requires removing the motor and splitting the cases.
It may be obvious, but I'll confirm it.
That's an expensive repair.

[Allaband]

This is great info, thanks everyone! I got the Haynes manual for $25 on ebay and read through the tutorial. Doesn't seem like a tough job. When I get around to it I'll research those special tools. Can anybody give me a good source for that seal?

Also, what is a good source for the two valve belts? I've seen them listed for $150 to $200. I'm not sure what name/quality/price I should be looking for.

Thanks again!

[koko64]

Sponsors Monsterparts and Motowheels have belts.

[Allaband]

I found the belts at Motowheels for $42 each! That's great! I don't see them at monsterparts though.

Can anyone help me find the seal that goes under that pulley? I can't find the part number anywhere.

How do you guys hold that pulley while you crank off that nut? The manual says to use an old belt wrapped around the pulley and clamped with vice grips. That sounds hokey to me. Any other ideas?

Also, I'm supposed to replace that nut right? It's a single tightening item right?

Thanks again for all the help!

[Speeddog]

Belts:
https://monsterparts.com/products/exactfit-timing-belt

You can download parts catalogue and owners manual here:
http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do

Pricing available online here, gives an idea of what OEM parts cost at a dealer:
https://www.ducatiomaha.com/search

koko64 and spain posted early in this thread on tools, etc.

[Allaband]

Thanks for the info Speeddog.

I still can't find the seal in the parts catalogues. I can't find it anywhere. It's not in the write-up or my manual. I'll call some dealers tomorrow but if anyone has info on that seal I'd love to have it.

The write up mentions this tool "Factory seal tool for shaft #88700.5749". It looks like some kind of shaft that goes over the real shaft. In the pictures you can't even tell the tool is on there except that you can no longer see the threads of the shaft (the tool makes it looks like a cone shape). Can anyone tell me what this thing does and if I need it? My manual doesn't mention it. I can't figure out what it's for, why I should use it, or where I can get it.

I found the tool for holding the elastic stop ring nut, it's $35. I might try to make something instead. Has anyone found a way around this without spending $35 for a single use tool or grinding down a socket?

Thanks again for the help everyone!

Turning the engine, in some places I see a tool recommended, in other places I read that I should just put the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel until I get to top dead center. Can I do it with the rear wheel so I don't have to buy another tool?

[Allaband]

Is it the "Layshaft Seal 93041232A" ?