Help with the (apparently quite common) fuel pump wiring issues for an S2R1000

[LARWS2R1000]

Hello All,

I'm an occasional viewer of the forum but finally joined. I recently got back in to riding after a fairly long hiatus. I have some questions that I'm hoping to run by you guys, and any help would be much appreciated. I've had (since new) a 2008 S2R1000, which wasn't ridden much for several years - it only has 3200 miles on it. I had it hooked up to a battery tender, and made sure to have the oil and fluids changed, etc., a couple of times while in storage. When recently pulled out and fitted with new tires, the bike ran perfectly well for a couple of hundred miles, and then started to have the classic engine cut-off issues and fuel pump power failures that I've now read so much about. I promise I read everything on the topic I could before posting, but I had a couple of follow-up questions for which I couldn't find answers. I have basic mechanical skills, but very little in the electrical realm, and do not consider myself good at soldering. Since the Cycle Works kit has long been discontinued, and I don't really feel proficient enough to do the epoxy removal/ re-soldering trick, I guess that leaves with me with two options: (i) install the ST wiring unit (part number 51020032A) or (ii) buy a new fuel pump assembly. I'd definitely prefer the first option if possible, but I'm a little concerned about the lack of the extra ground wire. Is it necessary to use the extra black ground wire? I'm hoping the answer is "no", but if yes, do people just splice the wire and leave the exposed splice in the pump? I know about how gasoline flammability works, but I'm not all that comfortable with leaving an exposed splice (even with a ground wire), especially since my splice likely won't be that great. Any advice would be appreciated, and thanks in advance!

[Howie]

Yes, this failure is common,but what diagnostic steps have you gone through to determine this is your problem?  There are other causes, like intermittent main or fuel injection relay. 

[LARWS2R1000]

Good point, thanks. Honestly, diagnosis has been limited to noting that, whenever the bike refuses to start (either cold or after riding), the fuel pump doesn't whirr up like it should.  When the problem occurs, it always seems to happen within about 200 yards from a stop, after which time turning the key fails to start the fuel pump, sometimes for hours. I definitely don't want to waste anyone's time, but it seems as though most folks who experienced this issue (or at least who wrote about it) eventually found the epoxy/ wiring issue. Is there a decent way of checking and replacing parts to see if the other issues are at play? In case it is relevant, I should also note that gauges and lights always power up perfectly and battery is definitely OK. Thanks again for the help!

[stopintime]

These are the threads I have saved in case I find myself in your situation 


http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=61306.msg1222095#msg1222095

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=57898.15

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=68789.msg1272004;topicseen#new

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=69062.0

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=71783.0

[LARWS2R1000]

Thanks, I definitely appreciate you taking the time to share those.  I had read those, but it's definitely handy to have the links in one place for reference! I've been pretty swamped with work lately, so, this afternoon, I decided to go the weak way out. Apparently, the local Duc dealer sees this frequently enough that they offer the rewiring/ epoxy job as a service. They charge too much, but it's still less than half of what the new pump assembly would cost, which was the only thing the independent shop I use would do. I'll let you guys know if anything comes up. Thanks again

[koko64]

Great the local dealer does it. I guess they have a captive audience price wise.

[Howie]

When the bike stalls lift the tank and make sure there is 12+ volts at the brown/white wire (terminal 3) when you turn the key on.  No power?  Relays or related wiring.  If there is, either the harness or pump are bad.  Remove pump assembly and apply voltage and ground directly to the pump.  Pump works?  Probably will.  Harness problem.

[LARWS2R1000]

When the bike stalls lift the tank and make sure there is 12+ volts at the brown/white wire (terminal 3) when you turn the key on.  No power?  Relays or related wiring.  If there is, either the harness or pump are bad.  Remove pump assembly and apply voltage and ground directly to the pump.  Pump works?  Probably will.  Harness problem.

Thanks for the advice - turns out it was the classic wiring harness issue.  I'm in CA, and, per mandate, we seem to have more ethanol in our fuel than most other states, so it seems like the epoxy degradation is pretty much inevitable. The priorities of such regulation suddenly become pretty questionable when it results in a motorcycle that suddenly becomes a pedal-less 400lb bicycle on the freeway...

[ute]

so i have my pump out now for tank work ........ what would be a good preventive maintenance on this ? ( I have no issues with pump yet )

Do i need to dig out the old epoxy and just JB weld in there ? or leave old epoxy and JB on top of it ?

And crazy question would Hot Glue work or would the fuel eat it ?

Thanks guys

[ducpainter]

so i have my pump out now for tank work ........ what would be a good preventive maintenance on this ? ( I have no issues with pump yet )

Do i need to dig out the old epoxy and just JB weld in there ? or leave old epoxy and JB on top of it ?

And crazy question would Hot Glue work or would the fuel eat it ?

Thanks guys

I believe the wires encased in the epoxy need to be resoldered to their connections. That will require digging out the old epoxy. I may be wrong.

Forget about the hot glue.

[ute]

Even if the fuel pump is working ? ...do a resolder ?

[ducpainter]

Even if the fuel pump is working ? ...do a resolder ?

Fuel contamination won't hurt a solder joint. The issue with those bikes is a poor solder joint. That's why the pumps stop working.

I wouldn't bother doing all the other work without re-soldering.

[Howie]

Fuel contamination won't hurt a solder joint. The issue with those bikes is a poor solder joint. That's why the pumps stop working.

I wouldn't bother doing all the other work without re-soldering.

 

[ute]

ok will do

thanks guy