M1100 Starter Replacement

[Speeddog]

There's a repair place here that re-did a starter for about that $ for one of my customers here recently, I'll get some info if I can.

[Mhanis]

Well, I bought the new (non-oem) starter from DB Electrical. Now begins the arduous task of getting everything put back together.

I'm sure it'll take me several days as (like everyone else) I cannot focus on one thing at a time; too much other shit going on, like work.

Wish me luck!

Mark

[koko64]

 

[greenmonster]

Do not overtighten the positive wire on the starter!
It is isolated from the cover via a plastic (maybe bakelite) washer.
Brake it and you may shortcircuit starter.
Don`t worry, just have this in mind and all will be good.

[Mhanis]

Hi Guys,

I'm back at it after a couple of business trips, a personal trip and some procrastination.

The new starter arrived some time ago and after a couple of attempts for the life of me I cannot get that GD starter back into place properly! I cannot get the splines to line up with the gears and get the right side of the starter to fit into place where the bolt goes into the back (right) side of the starter.

If there is someone who has done this; am I missing something obvious? I don't have to do anything radical like remove the gears to get the starter in place then replace the gears, do I? I just cannot understand how I got the old one out (with some twisting and turning) but I cannot get the new one in no matter what I do!!

I have checked the two starters out and they are the same.

Any suggestions?

Mark

[koko64]

Are you sure the little cog on the new starter is a match? You can reuse the little cog on the old starter and transfer it to the new starter. The cog on the new starter may not fit the existing gear set. They did change between models and will swap out via a circlip.
Its a good practice to keep the matching set in service even if the new gear is a theoretical match.

[Mhanis]

After a long pause of not working on my bike I am finally back at it. It seems I have to pull the starter motor idler gear to get the new starter into place properly. So question: Does anyone know if I can pull the idler gear AND its shaft without removing the flywheel-alternator assembly or is that an absolute must?

Mark

[Speeddog]

You *may* not need to remove the flywheel stuff.

Is the idler gear held on the shaft by a snapring or a bolt with large washer?

[Mhanis]

The gear itself is held in place by a circlip then the shaft is unscrewed using an allen wrench.

Mark

[Speeddog]

OK, different from the HYP1100 motor I've got apart now....

The early setup allowed accessing the two internal starter bolts through holes in the idler gear, I think that's what you've got.

The HYM1100 parts, you must remove the idler gear because you can't get the bolts out through the holes.

[Mhanis]

[Mhanis]

Yeah, I think I'm screwed. Looking at the schematic I am sure the flywheel will have to come off to get the starter gears out. I removed the circlip and the bolt but there isn't enough room to get the gears out with the flywheel in place. If I could slide the "intermediate gear pin" out of the center of the starter gears I think I'd be golden, EXCEPT that pin is flanged on the back side and will only come out after the gears are removed.

Shit.

Mark

[Speeddog]

That pic is perfect.

What's making you need to take the starter gear off?

[Mhanis]

I don't have enough room to manipulate the starter to get it into position and lined up properly. It is really hard to explain but there are 3 bolts on the engine side and a 4th bolt into the starter on the back side. It is the backside that is giving me grief, I simply cannot get it aligned. If the gear set is removed I'd have all the space I need to get the starter in, then the gears can easily be put back into place, but all of that requires the removal of the flywheel.

Sorry for the late reply, I somehow missed your response Dog.

Mark

[Speeddog]

Hmmm, OK, I've got a HM1100 motor needs attention here, I'll see what the deal is.

No worries on the reply.