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Author Topic: How to : install rear brake pads and rotor on S4R / S2R (and other SSSA bikes)  (Read 7928 times)
S21FOLGORE
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« on: September 21, 2015, 12:15:55 AM »



Introduction
Replacing the rear brake pads is actually pretty simple and relatively easy job on most motorcycles.
However, in case of S4R / S2R (and most other single sided swing arm bikes), it is somewhat intimidating because you have a lot more limited access to the brake caliper.
(And, I really didn’t find the online tutorial that would REALLY help the beginner / first timer on this particular bike. So, I try my best to make it as clear and easy to understand as possible. )

Should you remove the rear wheel ?
The short answer.
Yes, you should. (even though you CAN replace the pads without removing the wheel, I still recommend to remove the wheel. Why? Well, read on ...)

About the aftermarket rotors

Years ago, some rotors were sold without the metal pins for the speedo pick up.
These days, most of the manufactures include those metal pins (look at the photo).
I know EBC and BRAKING come with the pins. IF you are buying something off e-bay, it is probably better to make sure before purchasing.



And why did I choose BRAKING products?
Well, I’ve been running their wave rotors and pads on the front, and I like them
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=56031.0

... also, they were on sale at Sportbiketrackgear.com.

Normally, tutorial article starts with the description of the tools and stuff you will need, but, I’m going to show you how the work is done first.
Then, will talk about the tools.

Removing the rear wheel


Now, if you have an aftermarket exhaust system, you may have to remove the silencers, in order to remove the rear wheel. My bike has ARROW full system, and silencer stay would interfere with the rim (If I force it, I can take the wheel off but it will definitely scratch the rim.) So, be prepared for that extra job if you have non-stock exhaust system.
When removing the silencers, you can just undo the spring hooks and mounting bolt / nut (that go through stay - seat rail), then pull the silencers out. When putting them back on, however, you will have to loosen the bolts that mount the silencers to the stay first, then put the silencers on, then tighten all the bolts little by little. Otherwise, the holes will never line up properly.
Wear eye protection when working with springs and impact wrench.




Removing the rear brake rotor


If you are going to replace the rotor, now is the time to loosen the rotor retaining screws. (Because you can still use the rear brake to stop the rotor spinning while undoing the screws.)
You will need a ratchet handle that will fit under the swing arm.



Sorry, the video is too dark, you can’t see the important part.
Don’t take off all the screws, yet. Loosen them, but leave them in there so that the rotor won’t fall down.




Next, undo the rear brake caliper mounting bolts.
You know which one is the mounting bolt, right ?


If you undo those two bolts that are around the top of the caliper body (near the pad pin) ,  you will end up SPLITTING the caliper body, so don’t touch them!

Remove the caliper mounting bolts, move the caliper out of the way and hang it with ban-gee cord.


<to be continued>
« Last Edit: October 19, 2015, 12:02:06 AM by S21FOLGORE » Logged
S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2015, 12:05:59 PM »

installing new rotor

Now, you can remove the stock rotor and install a new one.

Always clean the thread of all the fasters before installation.




Apply blue loctite, tighten the screws to the specified torque (in this case, 24 N-m), in 1-2-3-4 sequence.

Finger tighten all the screws first, then, using compact head ratchet, tighten them to 1/3 - 1/2 of the specified torque.
Finally, using torque wrench, tighten them down to the specified torque.
(Don’t tighten one bolt all the way down to the final torque and move on to the next ...)







Rear Brake 4

Make sure the surface of the rotor is perfectly clean. No oil, grease, dirt, rust should be on the rotor surface.

(to be continued to the brake pad installation part ...)
« Last Edit: November 21, 2016, 12:54:17 AM by S21FOLGORE » Logged
S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2015, 09:53:07 PM »

Old pads removal and caliper cleaning

Now, we move onto the brake pad replacing stage.

Note : On this particular Brembo caliper, the pad pin has not only the small “E”-ring at the end (which is visible), but also the small “C”-clip (which is not visible), to prevent the pad pin falling out accidentally.



E-clip


C-clip



Because of this c-clip, the pad pin WILL NOT come off if you just try to remove it by grabbing the pin head with a pair of pliers.
You will need to use plastic faced hammer and gently tap it.
Somehow, Ducati’s service manual does not mention at all about this c-clip.
So, if you are a beginner, and the pad pin just keeps slipping out from the jaws of the pliers, don’t get panicked.
Get a soft faced mallet to drive it out.

OK, so the pad pin removed, old pads are out. Now, spend some time for the caliper cleaning.
I wrote about the front brake caliper cleaning  here
 http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=61878.0

It is also important to clean the REAR caliper every once in a while. (So that the pistons can move freely.)

Rear Brake 5


« Last Edit: November 21, 2016, 12:55:17 AM by S21FOLGORE » Logged
S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2015, 07:44:00 AM »

Installing new pads, refitting the caliper

You can use a can of compressed air if you don’t have a compressor, to dry the caliper after washing.

Rear Brake 6

Now, you can install the new pads.
Slide a set of new pads into the caliper, then install pad pin (you will have to tap it with plastic faced hammer).
Put e-clip on the end of the pad pin.

Fit the caliper on the rotor, finger tighten the caliper mounting screws.
(If you have to push the pistons back into the caliper body  in order to separate the pad father apart, you should be able to do it with your fingers. Open the reservoir cap and remove the diaphragm, so that you will have correct air gap in the reservoir. Be careful with the brake fluid spill.)



Don’t forget the washers (one flat , one spring washer for each screw), apply the “Greas B” on the thread.
(And of course you have already cleaned them, right  ?)
Finger tighten the screws, then using ratchet handle (preferably compact head / short handle) tighten them in 1-2-1 sequence, till you feel like you have reached to roughly 1/2 of the specified torque.
Then, using torque wrench, tighten them down to the specified torque. (24 N-m)
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S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2015, 09:33:47 PM »

Refitting the wheel and the silencers

When putting the rear wheel back on, make sure that the four drive pins on the wheel shaft go into the holes on the hub portion of the wheel.
Apply thin coat of “Grease B” on the washer, spacer, and the thread of the wheel shaft.
Finger tighten the wheel nut, then using torque wrench, tighten the nut to the specified torque. (176 N-m)

Rear Brake 7

The rear wheel nut has a safety clip. After tightening the nut to the specified torque, if the hole on the nut does not match one of the holes on the wheel shaft, turn the nut slowly CW ( to the direction to tighten),    NEVER TURN the nut to CCW ( the direction to loosen the nut) in order to align the holes.
Be careful which way to put a clip on. Put the clip on with the bent end facing toward the wheel.

OK, you are almost done, but not quite, yet.

Yup, you have to put the silencers back again.
It is pretty simple. Loosen the (stay - silencers) mounting bolts, put the silencers back on, put the (stay - tab on the seat rail) bolt and nut on, tighten them little by little.
Don’t tighten one spot all the way down, then move onto the next.
Put the spring hooks back on.


Double check everything, make sure you have a working brake before going for a test ride.

« Last Edit: November 21, 2016, 12:56:37 AM by S21FOLGORE » Logged
S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2015, 11:36:26 PM »

Zen and the art of motorcycle tool shopping guide

Ok, now we talk about the tools.

Caliper piston tool


Very useful tool for caliper piston cleaning.
I’d recommend to get one since it is pretty inexpensive.
(And there’s virtually no other way to rotate the pistons in the caliper body, anyway.)

You can get them from Webike Japan, Sportbiketrackgear.com, etc.
http://japan.webike.net/products/21424609.html
http://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/bikemaster-brake-piston-puller/
http://japan.webike.net/products/21424608.html

(I bought mine from Webike Japan years ago, although it looks like the one sold at STG (by BikeMaster) now. It really doesn’t matter which one to buy, because these tools are rebranded every which way, so if they look identical, they are most probably coming out from the same plant.)

Snap-ring pliers

For the safety clips on the rear wheel nuts.
Although, in this particular case, it is possible to remove / install the clip with the long nose (needle nose) pliers, I’d recommend buying a set like this photo below. (These are interchangeable-tip ones. Alternatively, you can get fixed-tip type, one by one, as you need. There’s no need to hurry and get everything all at once.)



The reason I say “Buy them” is because, if you keep working on motorcycles and cars and other stuff, sooner or later, you will encounter the situation where there’s no other choices but to use these tools.
Snap rings can be dangerous when they go flying. (wear eye protection when dealing with the springs.)
Using a proper tool is safer, less frustrating, and it can make your wrenching experience more enjoyable.


Hex bit socket



Yeah, hex bit sockets. You just have to look at your Monster. Hex cap screws are   EVERYWHERE!

For the rear brake pads and rotor, you will need them for removing / reinstalling the caliper and rotor retaining screws.

The simple facts about the hex cap screws

Hex cap screws can get rounded fairly easily, if handled incorrectly.

Rounded cap screws are royal pain in the b**t, even more so than the regular bolt / nut.

Therefore, you want to minimize the risk of rounding.

But how?
Well, first off, avoid using those “L-shaped key” wrenches. Especially for 4, 5, 6 mm ones.
T-handles are (a lot) better, but you have to have enough space to turn the handle.
Ratchet handle + extension bat + socket is the most versatile set up.

Hex bit socket, which one to buy
Like I stated above, you don’t want to round off these bolts. So you don’t want to cheap out on the hex bit socket.
I’m afraid to say this, but none of the stuff you can buy at Sears, Home depot, Lowe's, and Harbor Freight are high quality ones.
Take a look at the photo below.




From left to right : Snap-On, Ko-Ken, Craftsman, all 6mm

Can you see how the tip of the Craftsman is rounded ?
Can you see both Snap-On and Ko-ken (sorry, it’s out of focus, as it is much shorter) are almost perfectly flat with minimum amount of chamfer?

Craftsman socket has more free-play when inserted onto the screws, also.

If you don’t have hex bit sockets already, I’d recommend buying singles, not a set, from

Bondhus (USA), Snap-On (USA), Ko-ken (Japan), Wiha (Germany).

(to be continued...)

« Last Edit: October 26, 2015, 07:57:01 AM by S21FOLGORE » Logged
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