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Author Topic: Alternative clutch for the S2R 800  (Read 5648 times)
MV
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« on: February 08, 2015, 12:26:02 AM »

Just about to pull the trigger on a complete 696 clutch from the US as my S2R 800 has spat the cush drive springs out - seems to be a common fault!

This will delete the cush drive for the clutch, keep the APTC slipper function (which I like) & use the same clutch plates as the S2R 800, right?

Any reason not to do this? Any other clutches fit that might be a better option?

Thanks in advance!
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stopintime
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« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2015, 03:03:05 AM »

I bought the parts to do this, but ended up with a 750 non-APTC and it has been working well. Harder to pull, but easier to modulate.

Either solution is probably better than the stock system.

Make sure you get the primary drive gear too. Drive and driven needs to be a pair.
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MV
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« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2015, 02:25:23 PM »

The clutch I'm looking at doesn't include the primary drive gear, does it need to be a matched pair from the same engine or just the same model bike?
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stopintime
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« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2015, 02:30:52 PM »

People with more know how than me, say it's required from the same bike/parts bag.

I tried unpaired gears and had a terrible noise until fixed.

So, I think the answer is yes.
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MV
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2015, 02:53:35 PM »

OK, thanks mate, appreciate the input. Found a 796 one for less the the 696, but have emailed both to see if they also have the primary, fingers crossed.
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MV
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2015, 06:01:32 PM »

696 clutch & primary on the way, I'll update this thread with progress as I go.
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Speeddog
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« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2015, 07:32:26 PM »

Get the 696 primary gear nut (for the crank) too.

The S2R800 has a silly spanner nut, for which you'll need a special socket tool.....
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MV
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« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2015, 02:53:17 PM »

Get the 696 primary gear nut (for the crank) too.

The S2R800 has a silly spanner nut, for which you'll need a special socket tool.....

Done also & yes it did! Bloody stupid thing. Made a socket for it from a 27mm deep socket, nothing else for it on a sunday afternoon.

All done, but we had a huge storm here yesterday, so by the time I was done I would have needed a boat rather than a motorcycle. Everything seems fine, but I need to take it for a proper test ride to confirm.

Reading through some threads on here, I'm pretty sure the problem was caused by the previous owner not having any play in the clutch lever & cooking the clutch.
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insydney
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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2016, 06:07:48 PM »

hi MV...   i'm doing the same thing at the moment with my s2r

i just picked up a 696 basket on fleabay, complete with primary gear , i intend to use the original complete inner basket which i believe fits

so now the moment is approaching for me to rip it apart...

however i have a cpl of Q's you may be able to help me with;

1. did you have any trouble removing your primary gear ?

2. when i install the 696 outer basket, in place of the OEM s2r APTC one, does it need any shimming or do both baskets have the same overall dimensions aand swap over easily  ?

2. does the original clutch activating push rod need some form of adjustment resulting from the swap or sshould it all work as befor because of the use of the original inner basket ?

i'm hoping to employ the original 32mm retaining nut, is there really an issue with that?  i only just saw speeddog's comment and it's too late to get the nut from the 696 now Sad

cheers
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MV
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« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2016, 06:22:40 PM »

G'day Phil,

1. No, rattle gun fixed that easy Wink

2. I used the complete clutch from the the 696, it is also APTC, which I wanted to keep. Both inner baskets should be identical/compatible from memory.

2. (3.) No, it's all fine, no adjustment necessary. The hydraulic slave will take up any slack I guess.

No problems using the original nut, but it's a castle type nut, a pain unless you have or make the right socket.

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insydney
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« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2016, 07:49:38 PM »

cheers mv    thanks for the quick response
you're in oz too ?

anyway re the 32mm nut,   does it just need a deep socket ?    i hadn't even thought about it until i saw your post earlier today

and typically my mate with the rattle gun has just moved back to NZ...    aagh Sad

good news about the rest though, although looks like the primary gear could be a pregnant dog to remove, hopefully i can get away with using the existing one and pray for a good meshing   lol

cheers
phil
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MV
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2016, 10:01:17 PM »

Hey mate, yeah, I'm in Melbourne, I presume you're ... In Sydney?  waytogo

It's a castle nut, smooth around the outside but with 4 cutouts that a castle nut socket fits in, if you google castle nut, it should clear it up. I made one from an appropriate sized socket.

Easy enough to take the cover off & swap the primary gear later if it's giving you trouble anyway.
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insydney
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2016, 12:14:14 AM »

ahh that's no problem then, thats simply to accommodate a split pin i guess. as if 190 Nm and red loctite isn't enough to keep ut on    lol
i guess any socket that has enough depth is going to do the trick...  fingers crossed

the ducati primary gear puller is a bargain at $US 160...   cough, splutter !!   what a joke, the least they could provufe for the money is a clutch that doesn't shit itself !   Grrrr bloody italians

seriously the list of must have tools could send you broke  Sad
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Speeddog
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« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2016, 09:37:44 AM »

The primary puller is quite expensive.

It's also quite a serious piece, and mine is undefeated in every competition.  Smiley
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~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
insydney
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« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2016, 02:52:07 PM »

for what it costs you'd expect it to work speed'...   for something i'd only hope to use once it's almost making me think about taking it to a shop Sad
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