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Author Topic: How to: adjust clutch MC plunger engagement point - coffin style  (Read 4579 times)
wankski
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« on: February 07, 2015, 02:48:32 AM »

Subject bike: 2011 796ABS.

One of the annoying features of the newest 2v monsters is the common complaint that the clutch throw is set very far out from the grip from the factory.

must conjecture and 'horror' stories abound online about the fact that the set screw for the MC plunger is glued over. (just the slot of the screw that is...)

now for the facts and the happy report that minor adjustment does in deed reap huge benefit.

this is the screw i talk of:



the screw is cupped on the other end and held in place by a spring that presses against the thread of the worm screw. The interior side of the screw pushes against the clutch m/c plunger that in turn actuates the clutch slave releasing the clutch pack.

1. b/c its glued over its easiest to work on it off the bike - so remove it from the M/C - undo the stamped nut on the other end of the pivot bolt (19mm) and withdraw pivot - that's about it!

2. with the lever off - it's easier to pick off the glue covering the slotted worm screw. i used a handheld torch to burn it off - then the glue just broke off with a small flat head screwdriver - clear debris and clean off area.

3. before making any adjustment - mark off the stock location - i scored the soft alu housing with a sharp object to index the factory location.

4. to move the clutch engagement point INWARDS, then BACK OFF the screw (counter-clockwise) 1/4 turn at a time.

5. return lever to m/c with pivot and stamped nut but remember to place the clutch switch holder back on before the stamped nut and position into place so it engages when the lever is pulled in. tighten the stamped nut with only the socket by hand - no wrenches. over tightening will bind the lever.

6. no aaaannd deeeen. enjoy easy clutch point adjustment!

HOT TIP: your ducati key is a perfect fit for adjusting the set screw on the fly (well, when off the bike)... so far i'm happy with 1/4 turn backed off. experimenting with 1/2 turn pulled the engagement spot a bit closer than halfway to the bar when the lever is fully pulled in... may be too much for some. i found 1/4 turn pulled it in just enough to stop the engagement point from being annoying. pretty dang happy.

for all the over-cautious out there, if you mark it before you play around you can return to stock no problem. there is no risk.

the only possible issue that can arise if from TURNING IN the screw with the effect of pushing the engagement out further - why anyone would want to do that when the chief complaint is that it's too far out to begin with is anyone's guess.

this works perfectly, spares you from costly aftermarket levers (which do not add slack to the engagement point btw, just bring the lever closer - two different things).

I'm pretty happy with the adjustment. The stock set spring will keep the screw in place, but if you want after setting it perfectly to your liking you can remove the lever again, stand it with the screw face pointing up and trickle loctite 222 down the sides.

Hope it improves your rel'ship with your coffin-m/c 2v ducati.

Now for changing the annoyingly tall stock gearing.
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Howie
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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2015, 05:19:53 AM »

That setting is a free play setting, not an adjustment for point of engagement.  Too little free play results in slipping and premature wear.  Too much free play will keep the clutch from disengaging.  The epoxy on that screw is to discourage you from messing with it.  You want 1-1.5 mm of free play.  An alternate method can be found here:  http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html
Scroll down.

Maybe adjustable levers are in your future?
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wankski
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2015, 01:20:06 PM »

yep, it is a free play adjustment, but it does impact on engagement point relative to initial lever pull.

i understand the problems that can be caused by turning in, particularly as the fluid warms up and expands - but as stated above, WHY WOULD ANYONE DO THAT!! it's already too far in to begin with!!

as for backing out, you would need to do so to a completely unreasonable degree to impact on clutch disengagement. Anyone with these bikes knows its all happens in the first 1/3 of lever pull from completely engaged to completely disengaged. backing off the set screw 1/4 turn or even 1/2 is not in any way leaving you in any danger of the lever not fully pushing in the m/c pushrod.

ducati themselves say they made it this way for 'quick changes' as all you need is a slight yank on the lever as you change up or down, you never pull it fully in for a change

anyway, for all those game - try it! as i say, backing off the worm screw 1/4 turn is just enough to introduce a dead spot on the very first pull of the clutch lever. My bike as stock had very little and therefore the engagement point was pretty instant...

i'm happy with it as is - as for aftermarket levers - nah thanks. the cheapies are not for me and the asvs and crgs are pretty expensive for achieving this aim and despite the cost some have issues with fitment.

heres the rub - by changing to a/m levers, you necessarily change the location of the 'stopper' and the m/c plunger. the crgs and asvs for example come with the bracket that hold the actual lever and have their own stoppers for the m/c plunger. why everyone flies into a tizzy when adjusting the stock ones while in the same breath suggest aftermarket products (which in some cases don't even play nice with the stock m/c plunger and switch) is beyond me.
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