Ducati Monster Forum

powered by:

March 29, 2024, 05:17:03 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Tapatalk users...click me
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  



Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 6   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: 2014 version .. Fuel pump not priming  (Read 23144 times)
iltl32
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 90


« Reply #15 on: September 03, 2014, 01:15:12 PM »

Sorry I'm late to the party, the 2014 bit threw me off.

That black plastic cover is totally removable, there was need to damage it.  There are round metal locking nuts on those small metal posts that you can pop off with a screwdriver/pliers.  You can see them in your pictures.

The problem you're having is a very common one.  Common enough that someone should have sued Ducati, honestly.  The connection from the outside of the tank to the inside of the tank is what's failing.  It happens to lots of Ducati bikes and CA Cycleworks was selling a replacement for a while but they stopped.

You need to completely remove the pump and the plastic piece so that the fuel flange is basically just metal on both sides.  You'll see the wires (I think 4) running out of a big glop of epoxy (visible in your pictures).  You need to carefully remove this epoxy.

I dug mine out with some dentist tools and a really really small drill bit.  It took less than an hour, it chipped away in rubber chunks like a really firm pencil eraser.  Don't damage the wires unless you feel comfortable splicing new ones inside a fuel tank (I wouldn't).

Once you get down to where the wires are soldered to the flange, you need to re-solder them.  Use very good technique, because it has to last.  Make sure the wire and the contacts get hot, don't just glop solder onto them.  You can test your work but plugging it back into the bike and turning on the key, you'll hear the pump prime if it's working.

Now you can replace the epoxy you removed.  I used J.B. Water Weld because it's supposed to be fuel-proof.  This was about 2 years ago and it's still holding, so I think it works.  Give it a couple days to cure because it needs to be sturdy.

Try to re-use the locking nuts because finding stainless steel ones is a pregnant dog.  The only ones I could find from a store were zinc, and zinc will rust in fuel.  They have to be fuel-proof.  Ditto for whatever glue you use to fix the plastic bits you cut as well.  Maybe Water Weld will work for that as well.

Read more about it here (particularly on page 2):http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=57898.0
« Last Edit: September 03, 2014, 01:31:21 PM by iltl32 » Logged

2005 620 Dark
Speeddog
West Valley Flatlander
Flounder-Administrator
Post Whore
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 14813


RIP Nicky


« Reply #16 on: September 03, 2014, 05:39:12 PM »

Or, you could just replace the wiring fitting with the Ducati part, 51020032A.
Logged

- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
cbcanada
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 188


« Reply #17 on: September 03, 2014, 06:23:45 PM »

Sorry I'm late to the party, the 2014 bit threw me off.

That black plastic cover is totally removable, there was need to damage it.  There are round metal locking nuts on those small metal posts that you can pop off with a screwdriver/pliers.  You can see them in your pictures.

The problem you're having is a very common one.  Common enough that someone should have sued Ducati, honestly.  The connection from the outside of the tank to the inside of the tank is what's failing.  It happens to lots of Ducati bikes and CA Cycleworks was selling a replacement for a while but they stopped.

You need to completely remove the pump and the plastic piece so that the fuel flange is basically just metal on both sides.  You'll see the wires (I think 4) running out of a big glop of epoxy (visible in your pictures).  You need to carefully remove this epoxy.

I dug mine out with some dentist tools and a really really small drill bit.  It took less than an hour, it chipped away in rubber chunks like a really firm pencil eraser.  Don't damage the wires unless you feel comfortable splicing new ones inside a fuel tank (I wouldn't).

Once you get down to where the wires are soldered to the flange, you need to re-solder them.  Use very good technique, because it has to last.  Make sure the wire and the contacts get hot, don't just glop solder onto them.  You can test your work but plugging it back into the bike and turning on the key, you'll hear the pump prime if it's working.

Now you can replace the epoxy you removed.  I used J.B. Water Weld because it's supposed to be fuel-proof.  This was about 2 years ago and it's still holding, so I think it works.  Give it a couple days to cure because it needs to be sturdy.

Try to re-use the locking nuts because finding stainless steel ones is a pregnant dog.  The only ones I could find from a store were zinc, and zinc will rust in fuel.  They have to be fuel-proof.  Ditto for whatever glue you use to fix the plastic bits you cut as well.  Maybe Water Weld will work for that as well.

Read more about it here (particularly on page 2):http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=57898.0

Thanks for the info. I am at the stage of digging out the epoxy now.

Basically i cut out a "window" on the side of the plastic to see what was going on in there... I cannot glue it back.. Is this okay?
Logged
cbcanada
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 188


« Reply #18 on: September 03, 2014, 06:27:24 PM »

Or, you could just replace the wiring fitting with the Ducati part, 51020032A.

I looked it up but no photos..what is it? Is a replacing flange?
Logged
Speeddog
West Valley Flatlander
Flounder-Administrator
Post Whore
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 14813


RIP Nicky


« Reply #19 on: September 03, 2014, 07:13:18 PM »

I looked it up but no photos..what is it? Is a replacing flange?

It's a replacement for the fitting with the wires on each side, the part that failed.
Logged

- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
iltl32
Jr. Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 90


« Reply #20 on: September 04, 2014, 08:25:03 AM »

Did they just start selling that?  I'm certain it wasn't available when I had my problem, I checked everywhere.

Regarding the hole in the plastic housing: I have no idea if it will affect operation or not, sorry.  I don't remember exactly how it looked inside.
Logged

2005 620 Dark
Speeddog
West Valley Flatlander
Flounder-Administrator
Post Whore
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 14813


RIP Nicky


« Reply #21 on: September 04, 2014, 09:03:37 AM »

It's been made available recently.

No idea when, exactly.
Logged

- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
stopintime
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8912


S2R 800 '07


« Reply #22 on: September 04, 2014, 10:34:27 AM »

Is that part 'universal' ?
Logged

237,000 km/sixteen years - loving it
Speeddog
West Valley Flatlander
Flounder-Administrator
Post Whore
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 14813


RIP Nicky


« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2014, 12:13:12 PM »

Is that part 'universal' ?

I'm told it will fit Monster, Multi, and **9 SBK.

Trying to verify that with some FHE.
Logged

- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~
cbcanada
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 188


« Reply #24 on: September 04, 2014, 12:55:48 PM »

Hold on guys!! Smiley
Please chime in on this first.
If you scroll back to my post from last page, You can see i cut a hole into the plastic to see whats going on in there.

I cannot glue that part back on.. Does this hole affect anything? The plastic looked like all it did was hold the parts together and if that's the sole purpose everything is still solid and intact
Logged
ducpainter
The Often Hated
Flounder-Administrator
Post Whore
*****
Online Online

Posts: 78192


DILLIGAF


« Reply #25 on: September 04, 2014, 04:20:26 PM »

That inspection hole shouldn't bother anything.
Logged

"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent.”


2 Wheel Wanderer
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 226


Pavement Junkie


« Reply #26 on: September 04, 2014, 07:06:00 PM »

I just did this today. The positive wire had come loose. I dug out the rubber epoxy, soldered everything back in and filled it back in with ducatibond. I'll post up some pics later so people can see what the inside looks like.
Logged
cbcanada
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 188


« Reply #27 on: September 04, 2014, 07:18:25 PM »

I just did this today. The positive wire had come loose. I dug out the rubber epoxy, soldered everything back in and filled it back in with ducatibond. I'll post up some pics later so people can see what the inside looks like.

Did you completely dig out the epoxy and what did you use? Would you mind giving a step by step .."how to for dummies"
Logged
2 Wheel Wanderer
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 226


Pavement Junkie


« Reply #28 on: September 04, 2014, 07:29:46 PM »

I used a small drill bit at 1st close to the positive wire. Then I used something that looks like a metal dentist pick, it just kind of crumpled out. I cleared about 1/2 of it out around the +$- wires. In the middle there is plastic that separates the inside from the outside and has small metal tubes going through where the wires get soldered to. I put more solder on the negative wire to reinforce it and stripped of a tiny bit of the positive wire to get a clean surface. I twisted it as much as I could so I could get as much of it in the small metal tube as possible. Then soldered it in and filled in the hole. The pics show everything really well.
Logged
2 Wheel Wanderer
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 226


Pavement Junkie


« Reply #29 on: September 04, 2014, 11:04:07 PM »

Here is a video of Chris from CA Cycleworks taking apart the fuel flange.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiHtrzgnncU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

After I got everything apart and the plug out I dug some of the epoxy out.  

Edit: I dug out the ducatibond, the rest of the epoxy and filled it in with Caswells.

Here is a pic of the plug after digging out the epoxy. The positive wire didn't have much solder on it, it came right off.



I cut just a little bit off the end of the wire to get to some fresh wire, twisted it to make it as compact as possible and put it in the metal tube.



I put a little more solder on the negative wire and soldered up the positive. They should never come off again.



Filled it in with Ducatibond






« Last Edit: September 07, 2014, 11:22:26 PM by 2 Wheel Wanderer » Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 6   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
SimplePortal 2.1.1