Hi guys...
I noticed that there aren't any in depth belt change and valve check guides for the new monsters... well, at least as far as I can see...
the best one so far is here:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=58791.0but there appears to be a fair bit of discussion around whether or not the factory procedure should be followed and how hard it is to do 'properly'.
so I hope to put together a guide piece by piece - in the method the factory intended - and also make reference to any difficulties or set backs I may have....
***UPDATED GUIDE COMPLETED SCROLL DOWN***
Tools needed:
the best thing about this, is you can do this on your side stand... no special lifts or paddocks stands needed...
1) usual sockets and wrenches, mostly 8 and 10mm size
2) allen keys, 4-5-6mm (you would want these in sockets too, long preferably)
3) torx key T30 (cam sprocket bolts)
4) if you do this on the sidestand and the wheel on the ground, you'll need a crank turning tool, i used the motomfg one. (~$22)
5) cam locking tool (oem is around $25, or i can now confirm a 6mm drill bit or similar 6mm smooth rod would do the job)
6) spark plug remover out of your ducati tool kit
special equipment:
some kind of frequency measuring tool, such as JP's Courroies. JP's program worked very well with an external mic on my laptop. otherwise, people have made do with guitar tuning programs or just the simple "5mm hex key under the fixed tensioner roller trick"...
optional:
loctite 222
copper grease
torques:
if you were to do this by the book, you would need an accurate wrench that could measure out 10Nm for the cam pulley bolts, and around 26Nm for the tensioner fixing bolts. factory says to torque these dry. Otherwise if you are an experienced hand you could make do yourself and enlist the extra insurance of loctite 222.
so let's start... strip off the panels and the tank - plenty of threads about that..... and... now it's a naked bike..
belts - had a bit of trouble with this one... the horizontal cyl cover would not come off thanks to a bolt free-spinning... solution? attach hex bit to drill and spin it fast to melt the plastic while gently prying off the cover... did the trick real well... brass anchor well came off cleanly... will epoxy back on...
had to take the manifold off to access the belt, one of the studs came off w/ the copper nut due to rust.. the other nut came off fine... disregard what i wrote... i was tired... thread spec is 1.25 not 1.0... zzzz... i found that the spec is very similar to the suzuki RGV, and plenty are available in stainless or even Ti on ebay... you could also use a wholly threaded 46mm stud cut to size, if you wanted, but i ended up going with the oem parts from the local ducati dealer... they were cheap ~ $1.65ea, and $0.60ea for the copper nuts....
so, buy some new ones and take the other stud off using the 'two-nut' method...
inserting the new studs is the reverse... tighten the two nuts against each other and turn the bottom nut this time.. it will bottom out gently in the head... remember, no crazy tightening, that's steel thread into soft alloy....
ooh, shiny: