2011 M696 Clutch Problems!

[wiggsmeister]

My first post.. I bought a used 2011 Monster 696 last November from a dealer down the street. It had 3100 miles on it at the time of purchase and now has about 8500.

I noticed that the clutch was slipping around 7500 miles when I'd shift up between second and third. The engine would rev but I wouldn't accelerate as quickly as I should have, I'd back off the throttle, and it would engage again and be fine.

The problem was occasional so I thought nothing of it, then it happened mid gear, usually in 4th gear. When I'd be riding hard, as soon as the rpms got into the meat of the hp, the engine would rev and I wouldn't accelerate, so I'd back off and it would reengage.

I'm pretty sure this is a problem with the clutch plates and am considering buying a new set and spring and taking it to the shop to have it replaced - unfortunately I don't have the tools, space, or all the knowhow to do it myself.

Any thoughts or words of advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks!

[jaxduc]

this is a great question for the tech section.
I think you will have better luck there.

[Raux]

stock levers?

[wiggsmeister]

yep. a few mods were already done before I bought it, but nothing to do with the clutch.

[wiggsmeister]

thanks jaxduc. im going to post it there right now. thanks for the welcoming on my other post btw

[Raux]

yep. a few mods were already done before I bought it, but nothing to do with the clutch.

wrong, the left lever is the clutch and if positioned wrong can cause clutch slip

[wiggsmeister]

right. nothing was modified with the levers. the mods are as follows: exhaust, bar end mirrors, fender eliminator and integrated tail light..

the levers are stock, and unless they were messed with when i took it in for the 7500 mile service the levers shouldn't be the problem.

[Raux]

was it happening before the service?

maybe wrong oil?

[Curmudgeon]

was it happening before the service?

maybe wrong oil?

Auto oil with friction modifiers would do just that!

[Johnny5]

Auto oil with friction modifiers would do just that!

+Eleventy billion
I made the mistake of using Honda HP4 with Moly (Instead of without), and it really messed with my Clutch on one of my previous bikes.  Turns out you have to be REALLY aware of oil additives with a wet clutch.  The good news is all I had to do was change the oil and it was fine after a couple hours of riding.

[wiggsmeister]

The oil I've been using is Yamalube Full Synthetic 15w-50. Below is a description of the the oil features I found on Chaparral Motorsport's website:


Yamalube Full Synthetic Race Oil 15W50 - Features

    Uniquely formulated to provide performance and protection on track, trail or street
    Helps reduce vibration
    No clutch slippage
    Gear protection
    Exceeds JASO MA requirements
    1 Quart

Note, obviously, No Clutch Slippage, lol.

That's the oil that was recommended to me by the dealer, so I expect that it's the correct stuff.. Is there anotherbrand/type you had in mind?

[Curmudgeon]

No familiarity with that stuff but specs sound OK. Maybe the dealer used something else for the service though. My dealer uses Redline 15W50 synthetic because it never failed him during all his Ducati racing years. I'd probably be using Mobil 1 V-Twin (20W50) if I were doing my own changes as I'm too much of a wimp to ride in real COLD anymore. Mobil 1 recommended the V-Twin to replace the 15W50 4T Racing they were making for Triumph before Triumph switched to Castrol. I wouldn't use any Castrol "motor oil" in a lawn mower.  (Saw too many oil failures during my high-line auto career...)

[wiggsmeister]

I spoke to the dealer a couple days ago and they said that it could be the oil because of the moly, however the oil my shop used is the same oil the dealer uses and he said they've never had problems with it. He also said using a non-moly oil is fine but it HAS to be HIGH QUALITY full-syn motorcycle oil to avoid any further clutch damage, if there is any.

I'm going to try the non-moly oil change, but I won't be able to test it out for a few weeks.. due to an electrical problem with my brake light... My baby is testy right now...

I'll update the post after I make any changes just in case anyone is actually still reading this thread..

thanks again to everyone for the guidance!

[BK_856er]

Those APTC clutches can be picky about the oil, even among the "wet clutch compatible" varieties.  Mine definitely works best with Mobil-1 Racing 4T (previously called MX4T), so that's what I stick with.

I also chased some occasional clutch slippage a while back on my M695.  I eventually decided to replace the clutch pack and springs ($$).  Opened her up and found a loose clutch hub nut!  The old clutch plates looked and measured fine, but since I already bought new ones I put those in.  Not sure if it was the new plates/springs or the correctly tightened nut, but everything cleared right up.

(Shamelss plug - I have the used APTC clutch parts up for sale in the flea market)

BK

[wiggsmeister]

@BK

Does Mobile 1 4T have moly? I've found some conflicting info online about that.

I want to try an oil w/o moly before having to shell out the cash on a new clutch pack. It sounds like you would understand that..