neutral switch adjustment?

motoxmann · October 27, 2012, 02:57:01 PM

'00 M750

I know you can order different thickness shims/gaskets for the neutral switch so it is position at the proper depth to work properly.
But I'm having an issue and wanted to ask if anyone has experienced this before or knows what could be the fault:
neutral light works normally when in neutral. when it's in gear (any gear) sometimes the light will be off, and sometimes it will glow at a constant dim brightness, about half of the normal brightness as when in neutral. I've jiggled wires and connections and it doesnt seem to affect it at all. If I unplug the sensor though, the light will go out and stay completely out, then plug it back in and light stays out for a moment then after 10 seconds or so often comes back on dimly again (if in gear).

would this indicate a bad neutral switch? or would adjusting it in or out solve this?

memper · October 27, 2012, 03:43:31 PM

This is a common monster problem. I had the same issue. Solution? I ripped out the dash, kept the speedo and bezel and wired only gas and oil lights.
If the bike rolls then its in neutral...

I would think the sensor is faulty imo.

Howie · October 27, 2012, 09:02:29 PM

Faulty sensor.

motoxmann · October 28, 2012, 05:53:29 AM

crap. $71 for a new sensor

normally I wouldnt care about a neutral light, but I have the kickstand byspass switch from our awesome sponsor motowheels installed so it runs in neutral only with kickstand down. and with this sensor issue it still runs in gear.

thank you

memper · October 28, 2012, 02:49:26 PM

Just make a habit of making sure its in N before starting.

motoxmann · October 28, 2012, 03:11:15 PM

yeah I know, but the dimly lit N while riding really annoys me, and I've grown a habit of shutting the bike off when parking it simply by putting the kickstand down. I'm a stickler with things I own that I'm proud of :p

maybe I'll try "disassembling" the neutral switch and see if I can fix it. lot better than spending $72 and waiting 2 weeks for it to come in. that money would be much better off going towards new aftermarket coils/wires

live2ride · October 28, 2012, 10:25:41 PM

let me know if cleaning it/repairing it works. i'm having the exact same issue

motoxmann · October 29, 2012, 08:58:17 AM

will do, soon as Hurricane Overrated passes :p

ducpainter · October 29, 2012, 09:02:39 AM

I'll be surprised if you can 'disassemble' it.

motoxmann · October 29, 2012, 10:29:04 AM

only one way to find out

it's already "broken". worst case scenario; it'll still be "broken" or broken after I make the attempt.
it'll just require a little

and

followed by some

and

then a moment of

and

hopefully ending in

and

and then back to

and some commenters

Autostrada Pilot · October 29, 2012, 10:52:49 AM

Quote from: motoxmann on October 29, 2012, 10:29:04 AM
only one way to find out
it's already "broken". worst case scenario; it'll still be "broken" or broken after I make the attempt.
it'll just require a little and and and and and followed by some and and
then a moment of and hopefully ending in and and then back to and some commenters

Best post of the day!!

motoxmann · November 18, 2012, 03:22:27 PM

update: I FIXED IT!
removed the neutral switch, tested continuity/resistance with the button released, and while pushing it in, and everything in between. pushed in anything more than halfway gave 0.5 ohms. halfway and anything less was fluctuating between 180ohms-105ohms; it typically would start at 180 and gradually get less and less without touching anything, just from keeping the meter on it.
while I was holding it and checking for dead spots and whatnot, I managed to spin the black plastic part a little on the metal part of the sensor, by accident. that gave me an idea. I started twisting it back and forth (knowing this might break it, but it was already shot, so whatever), and sure enough it would get tighter to turn, then would stop. turned the other direction, it got looser as I turned it, then started getting tighter again then stopped. the position where it spun the easiest was the position it was in while installed on the bike. decided to do this again with the meter on it, and sure enough right around the middle of the rotation it was roughly 120-130 ohms. turned a little further in either direction it went straight to open circuit, push the button in and it went straight to closed circuit.
so I just spun it almost fully clockwise, because I knew I'd be grabbing this plastic part to thread the switch into the engine again. triple checked its function, worked flawlessly. installed in bike, checked again, open circuit in gear, closed circuit in neutral. connected it up with my kickstand bypass, took it for a ride, and all is perfect. N light glows when in neutral, and is completely off when in gear, and the kickstand bypass switch now works properly as well. no more dim N and no more running in gear with kickstand down

~$75 saved for 20 mins of work/fiddling!

ducpainter · November 18, 2012, 03:39:13 PM

Nice save.

Did you put any adhesive to keep it from rotating back to the 'loose' spot, or do you think there was enough friction to keep it where you put it?

Howie · November 18, 2012, 03:41:31 PM

Quote from: ducpainter on November 18, 2012, 03:39:13 PM
Nice save.

Did you put any adhesive to keep it from rotating back to the 'loose' spot, or do you think there was enough friction to keep it where you put it?

Also to seal moisture out.

motoxmann · November 18, 2012, 03:44:28 PM

Quote from: ducpainter on November 18, 2012, 03:39:13 PM
Nice save.

Did you put any adhesive to keep it from rotating back to the 'loose' spot, or do you think there was enough friction to keep it where you put it?

no adhesive or sealant, it seemed pretty darn sealed up still, and there was quite a bit of friction at the point where I set it, I highly doubt it'll be spinning anytime soon, even with the vibes from a duc

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neutral switch adjustment?