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Author Topic: How to ; Replacing spark plugs on NON-Testa S4R (Pics FIXED 06-27-2020)  (Read 9634 times)
S21FOLGORE
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« on: April 21, 2012, 12:11:07 AM »

(Thread fixed with original photos. Click on the picture for bigger image.)

Maybe because it's so basic, nobody really bothered to write "how-to" do spark plug change , but I thought this might save someone's (a little bit of ) time and money. So, here it is.

First off, which plugs should you buy?
 The manual says spark plugs for non-testa S4R as either
Champion RA59GC (Ducati part #: 67090171A) (my bike came with this one)
or,
NGK DCPR9EVX

Now, if I remember correctly, DCPR9EVX were superseded by DCPR9EIX (iridiume).
And if you go to NGK's web site, they list DCPR9E for non-testa S4R.
Whatever it says, it is WRONG. Don't buy them.

IMG_0311

Left is NGK, right is Champion just taken off from the bike.
You need the one that the top screws off. NGK DCPR9E's top WILL NOT come off.

IMG_0312

This is what's going to happen if you try to screw the cap off ... boo
Had to go to Ducati dealership to get those Champion plugs.


New Champion RA59GC, top cap screwed off

IMG_0317


Do the tops of NGK DCPR9EIX come off ? Well, I didn't bother to drive around the town to find one because ...
1) I use NGK iridium spark plugs for my car. And I KNOW the top of these plugs WON'T come off.
2)Duc dealer is only 5 min. away and they had Champion in stock.
3)Here's some more info about NGK DCPR9EIX
http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/general-monster-forum/113580-spark-plug-info-ngk-iridiums-s4rs.html



OK, now you got the correct plugs. Let's the show begin.

Start with the front (horizontal) cylinder.
You will have to undo some of the radiator mounting bolts.
Here ...
IMG_0304


here ...
IMG_0305

... and here
IMG_0306

This should give you enough space to remove spark plug cap from the head.
Disconnect the wire from the plug cap, push the radiator away to make some room, twist and pull the cap off.

IMG_0307

NAPA 5/8 spark plug socket works. You will need extension bar because spark plug recess is pretty deep.
(I also took off the black plate under the lower triple, just wanted to be on the safe side. You don't want to damage radiator fin, you know ...)

IMG_0309

See how deep the recess is ?

IMG_0308


Blow inside of spark plug recess with compressed air before removing the plug.

IMG_0313

If plug caps won't come out easily, a little bit of silicon spray will help.

Always check the gap of your new spark plugs before installation. Correct the gap if necessary. (the manual says 0.6-0.7mm. Use correct tool for checking / re-gapping.)

IMG_0318

Put some copper grease (anti-seize) on the thread.

Place the new plug into the socket. NAPA socket has rubber bushing inside. Don't push the plug all the way in(hex part held in socket) , just let the rubber bushing hold the ceramic part of the plug. Don't put the ratchet handle (yet), hold the extension bar and gently spin with your finger. That way, if the plug / socket is not straight, the plug will start spinning (slipping) inside of rubber and you won't cross thread. If you use the kind of cheapo plug wrench that has no rubber inside, be very careful not to cross thread.
Tighten with finger until you can't tighten anymore. Push the socket in (so it catches the hex part of the plug), then tighten more with finger all the way.
Then, only then, put ratchet handle (or torque wrench if you have), and tighten to 20 N-m.

Now, front (horizontal) cylinder is done. Put back the radiator mounting bolts.

Next is the rear (vertical) cylinder. Remove the seat, lift up the fuel tank. You will have to lift it up quite a bit, so you don't want to do this with a tank full of gas. Support the tank any way you like. (Just make your it won't slam on your hand while you are working.)

IMG_0315

IMG_0314

Disconnect the wire like before, grab the plug cap and twist, pull out. As you can see in this photo,  you can do this without removing battery.



You will need longer extension ... but the rest is the same.

IMG_0319

So, make sure you have all the tools needed before you start working on a bike.
And remember NGK DCPR family will not work on our bikes.







« Last Edit: June 27, 2020, 11:46:43 AM by S21FOLGORE » Logged
howie
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« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2012, 02:06:45 AM »

NGK's system is a little strange.  The part# gives you the proper heat range and type.  The stock# gives you the proper heat range and terminal.  The stock number for the removable cap is 2641.  Most general parts stores do not stock them.
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Mr.Purple
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« Reply #2 on: April 22, 2013, 11:09:32 PM »

(I know I'm bumping a one year old thread  Roll Eyes)

FYI: The caps of the NGK DCPR9EIX plugs does come off. They are however fastened very hard. I Had to use pliers and a wrench to get them off.


Anyways, thanks for the write-up. I Was afraid I had to remove battery and gas-tank to do the vertical cylinder. Now I feel much more confident  waytogo
« Last Edit: April 22, 2013, 11:11:40 PM by NorwayS4R » Logged
S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2013, 11:44:15 PM »

Quote
FYI: The caps of the NGK DCPR9EIX plugs does come off. They are however fastened very hard. I Had to use pliers and a wrench to get them off.

Thanks for the info. Now, I know, and everyone who's going to do the spark plug change knows, that NGK DCPR9EIX can be used. It's always nice to have more options. (though I don't have any complain about those Champions.)
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sxspdlgnd
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« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2015, 08:20:18 PM »

Sorry for my ignorance but why do you need to remove the top from the spark plug? Is it just a swap?
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S21FOLGORE
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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2020, 11:47:39 AM »

Okay, photos are now fixed.

(I found these photos in my time machine back up.)
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