Bike Not Starting

[memetic]

I went to start the bike up and it failed to turn over at all at first. Then, it turned over and stalled (because it was cold). I tried to start it again and it won't turn over again. I have lights and full power but nothing happens when I hit the start button. The only thing I did recently was "jump" the kickstand switch wiring to bypass it. Was working fine all day yesterday. I took it off just to be sure and still get nothing. I am checking all the connections now, but I need some more ideas. Thanks.

2002 900s

[Raux]

you jump started the bike?

did you check the fuses?

[memetic]

No, the battery worked the time it started. I am having the battery tested now.

The fuses are fine.

I don't think it is the kill switch because when I turn it off and then back on the fuel pump runs (or whatever that is that runs for a second or two when the key is turned on).

Is there any way jumping the kickstand switch could have shorted something? Or, messed up the ECU? I don't think so, but it sucks this happened after I did that. It was running fine with it like that.

I hate electrical problems. I'm in over my head here. Any help is greatly appreciated. 

Thank you.

[memetic]

It's not the battery. Anyone have any suggestions or advice? Thank you.

edit: how do I figure out if it is the solenoid?

[Raux]

put the kickstand switch back on for a test?

[zooom]

on the starter solenoid switch...there is a little white 2 pin connector...push it on and to make sure it is making full contact....

and...have you tried roll starting it in 2nd gear going down a hill?

[memetic]

I'm not sure what I did exactly, but there is what I think is the starter solenoid under the battery on the right side and I started pushing on the wires and then tried to start it and it fired up.

The roll start was the next step. I live on a steep hill, so getting it going is no problem; but, if it didn't fire up, it would be a real chore getting it back up the hill home.

Thanks guys.

[Howie]

Recheck your bypass, or, as Raux said, reconnect the switch first.  I don't know component location on the 696, but the easiest way to check the solenoid is to bypass it.  The easiest way to do this is go from big terminal to big terminal on the solenoid with a piece of wire or metal at least as thick as your starter cable.  Pliers will work, be sure not to let them touch anything metal on the bike.  Make triple sure the bike is in neutral.  If the bike now cranks either the solenoid is bad or it is not getting a signal.  The solenoid can be tested by removing it from the bike, and putting an ohmmeter across the big terminals.  Now, from a good battery, positive to one small terminal, negative to the other.  The ohmmeter should read 0 or close to it.

Oh, I can't imagine anything you could have done  bypassing the switch that could have damaged the ECU.

A little late on my post .  Glad the bike is running

Doh!  You have a first gen Monster.  Give those spade connectors a little squeeze to tighten them.  That was a common problem on those bikes

[memetic]

Spade connector squeeze... hmmm... Will do. F'n spades...

[BastrdHK]

I have a similar problem, and need some help from you guys.

2001 M900 w/ 28kmi

Swapped dead battery for a new one 300 miles ago.  No issues in those 300 miles.  Go for a short ride with a friend and the bike will not start after we shut off at an intersection to discuss the route.  It did something similar earlier in the ride at a stop, but I cycled the ignition on/off and it fired up.  Key on, lights, turns over fine.  I check gas, kill switch position, fuses....all good.  I pull the plugs and neither is getting spark.  We push the bike home (tried bump starting several times...nothing).  Once, I get home I realize the fuel pump is not priming when ignition is turned on.

My first panic was ECU, but I am hoping it is something simple....kill switch, kick stand bypass, relay.  I have an ohm meter, but I am not confident with electrical gremlins.  Any suggestions on how to work my way through and eliminate ECU, kill switch, kickstand bypass, etc.?

Thanks in advance for your time guys!

[zooom]

I have a similar problem, and need some help from you guys.

2001 M900 w/ 28kmi

Swapped dead battery for a new one 300 miles ago.  No issues in those 300 miles.  Go for a short ride with a friend and the bike will not start after we shut off at an intersection to discuss the route.  It did something similar earlier in the ride at a stop, but I cycled the ignition on/off and it fired up.  Key on, lights, turns over fine.  I check gas, kill switch position, fuses....all good.  I pull the plugs and neither is getting spark.  We push the bike home (tried bump starting several times...nothing).  Once, I get home I realize the fuel pump is not priming when ignition is turned on.

My first panic was ECU, but I am hoping it is something simple....kill switch, kick stand bypass, relay.  I have an ohm meter, but I am not confident with electrical gremlins.  Any suggestions on how to work my way through and eliminate ECU, kill switch, kickstand bypass, etc.?

Thanks in advance for your time guys!

check the big orange 40amp main fuse next to the battery...

[Howie]

I have a similar problem, and need some help from you guys.

2001 M900 w/ 28kmi

Swapped dead battery for a new one 300 miles ago.  No issues in those 300 miles.  Go for a short ride with a friend and the bike will not start after we shut off at an intersection to discuss the route.  It did something similar earlier in the ride at a stop, but I cycled the ignition on/off and it fired up.  Key on, lights, turns over fine.  I check gas, kill switch position, fuses....all good.  I pull the plugs and neither is getting spark.  We push the bike home (tried bump starting several times...nothing).  Once, I get home I realize the fuel pump is not priming when ignition is turned on.

My first panic was ECU, but I am hoping it is something simple....kill switch, kick stand bypass, relay.  I have an ohm meter, but I am not confident with electrical gremlins.  Any suggestions on how to work my way through and eliminate ECU, kill switch, kickstand bypass, etc.?

Thanks in advance for your time guys!

The main relay may be the culprit too.  Remove the relay and see if there is power at terminal 85 with the key on.  If so, the key and sidestand switch are is working  .  If not, report back for more info.  Terminal 86 is ground.  Jump terrminals 87 and 30.  Does the bike now start?  Assuming you are getting power at 85 and the ground is good you have a bad relay. 

Caution:
Make sure the bike is in neutral.

[memetic]

on the starter solenoid switch...there is a little white 2 pin connector...push it on and to make sure it is making full contact....

That's exactly what it was, btw. It was so loose it actually flopped out just by touching it. I smashed the spades closed with a screwdriver.

Now, I have another problem...

[BastrdHK]

Thanks for the info Zooom and Howie.  I did not have time to go through the bike with the ohm meter.  I did some simple testing.  When I turn the ignition switch, hear "click...click" where the fuel pump should be priming.  I unplugged the kill switch/start button....no clicking, so kill switch is functioning.  Unplugged the kickstand bypass....no clicking, nor would the bike even turn over. 

Lifted the tank and narrowed the clicking down to the two relays on left side of the battery as you sit on the bike.  They are identical relays.  Unplugged the one closest to the front of the bike, no power to lights, no turning over, nothing.  I unplug the relay closest to the back.  Everything powers up, turns over, but no clicking.  So the rear relay is the one making noise/possible culprit.  Since they are identical, I swap them and get no power, turnover...its dead.  So I have a bad relay.

Go to schematic and see its part number 54140031A (#10 on the diagram)




Ducati Part # 54140031A cross references with a Duralast 12v relay from Autozone part # 20382 for $15.  A little more than the OEM price, but usually in stock and probably closer to most than a Duc Dealer.  Hopefully this saves someone some time and effort.  It looks like they were used on most Duc models from 2000 to 2010, so it is surprising that they aren't easier to find.

Here is what they look like:

4pin


5pin


4pin version is stock, but you can use 5pin b/c the stock reciver/socket accepts 5pin.  The 5th pin is not used in this case and will not harm or affect operation.  The 5pin version is a little easier to find.

I found a great explanation about this specific relay and how it works from a BMW Airhead Group (You have to give the beemer guys credit for being thorough)

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/159/49/

[Howie]

Sounds like you got it nailed.