Wet Clutch Plate Questions

[Nat Cat]

I was told by a ducati dealership that I need to replace the clutch plates.

I see the aftermarket barnett ones, and the OEM ones. Also I have never replaced a clutch, but I can follow step by step directions.

Just want to confirm that it is doable for a garage mechanic to change a wet clutch and that it doesn't require any special tools!

And would a symptom of cluitch plates wearing out be a farther away friction point? It makes sense if it is in my head.

Which plates do you recommend? I am currently a student on a shoestring budget. Thanks for the help!

[Nat Cat]

Oh its a Ducati Monster 07 695

[Speeddog]

Before you go buying stuff....

What problems are you having with the clutch?

How many miles on your bike?

[Nat Cat]

Before you go buying stuff....

What problems are you having with the clutch?

How many miles on your bike?

The friction point on the clutch is at the far end of the lever release (far away from the bar), was told by the previous owner that the local ducati dealer mechanic told her the clutch plates were going out. Newport Beach Ducati, which has a good reputation around here.

Around 20k miles

[Speeddog]

If it's not slipping, the plates are fine.

The engagement point can be altered with the adjustment screw on the lever.

[BK_856er]

Speeddong speaks the truth.

The M695 has a very narrow enagement range that is low-effort and at the far end of the travel.

You can back off the lever adjuster plunger a little to bring the friction zone closer to the bar, but be careful.  The OE adjuster screw is usually locked in place with epoxy.  Better way to customize the lever travel is with an adjustable lever like the CRG.  If your lever is not original and/or not correctly adjusted for free-play that could negatively contribute to the lever feel.

I replaced my M695 clutch plates at ~20k miles, but my clutch was actually slipping in certain situations.  The old plates looked and measured OK.  Not too hard to swap or inspect/shuffle plates, and it's made much easier with the three special APTC screws.  If you open it up, you'll want to use the opportunity to check the torque on the big nut.  The M695 (and S2R800) Ducati service manuals have decent procedures with photos.  Your clutch is wet and also of the APTC type.

BK

[bikepilot]

^  What they said, plus make sure the clutch hydro system is bleed properly.

Wet clutches wear very slowly.  Unless you slip the clutch like mad or rode it a bunch with bad springs and a slipping clutch it shouldn't be even half-worn by now.  My TLS has tall gearing and makes 2x the hp of a 695 and after 60k miles of city commuting on it the clutch is still in spec:)

If you do need to replace the plates, its very easy.  Once you have the cover off its the same as doing plates on a dry-clutch ducati. 

I haven't looked at Barnett plates for the ducati, but in general their plates for most Japanese sport bikes (all wet clutches) are not great and considered inferior to the stock parts. 

[Nat Cat]

Will this work for a cheaper adjustible lever?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ducati-Monster-620-695-696-796-S2R-Brake-Clutch-Levers-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45fb32303bQQitemZ300567113787QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_7287wt_1002

[BK_856er]

Possibly.  Looks like a CRG knockoff.  Real CRG has an adjuster screw for the master cylinder plunger so you can achieve proper free-play.  Whatever lever you choose (if you go that route) should ideally have an adjuster screw for correct initial setup.  Hard to go wrong with real CRG.

When I bought my CRG about 4yrs ago I needed to fab a small tab to actuate the electric microswitch on the underside.  I think I remember reading that piece is now standard?

BK

[Nat Cat]

I think I am going to shave down the little knob that pushes into the mast cylinder. Fun Fun time

[VisceralReaction]

But would that prevent the clutch from fully disengaging and allow it to slip
during a shift? Just a thought.

[BK_856er]

I think I am going to shave down the little knob that pushes into the mast cylinder. Fun Fun time

Better to scrape out the epoxy over the set screw and turn the screw out a bit - reversible if you don't like it.  But if you're good at shaping metal and take baby steps maybe shaving is an option.

I think you have to go pretty far before worrying about incomplete disengagement.  Usually folks have the other problem...not enough free-play and constant drag/slip/heat/plate wear...often after installing aftermarket levers.

BK

[IdZer0]

Although the adjustable levers are a good mod if you don't like the (absolute) engagement point of the clutch. Relatively it will still stay at 95% of total travel.

Also if you decide to buy them, make sure they have the special tab at the bottom that actuates the microswitch; otherwise you'll lose the ability to start the bike when it's in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. (or is it the other way around I can never remember)

[Dirty Duc]

I was not sure that the barnett plates would work in an APTC clutch.

After comparing the plates from an older wet clutch... I am still not convinced.

All the listings of barnett plates indicated they worked with "standard" clutches, but also listed APTC-equipped bikes by the same part number.  YMMV, and defer to the actual techs...

[Speeddog]

APTC plates and conventional wet clutch Duc plates are different sizes, not interchangeable.

I fitted a set of Barnett APTC plates in a customer's S2R800, they worked fine other than dragging so bad that it was nearly impossible to find neutral at a stop.