new style gear select alignment tool?

[BK_856er]

Anyone use the new style gear select alignment tool, aka Fork Tool??

PN 887133334 (replaces 887131091 shown in all the workshop manuals).

Received one today.  It looks TOTALLY different!  2-3" black J shaped bracket with two holes and a pressed in pin.

I don't have my cover off yet, but I don't really see how to use it.  It must somehow bolt to the case and the pressed pin indicates correct position??

BK

[Speeddog]

Got a pic of it?

[BK_856er]

Got a pic of it?

Here's a couple:

[Speeddog]

Thanks for the pics.

I can't see any obvious way to use that tool. 

[BK_856er]

Thanks, Speeddog.  My current thinking is that it bolts to the case roughly as in the first pic, using the lower mounting point for the clutch slave cylinder, and the tool pin simply indexes the shift drum in 2nd gear.  Gear selector alignment must then be visual, since there are no markings on the tool.  Hard to say without mounting things up, but I'm not sure that I want to pull the cover until I know for certain how this thing works and I have a clear path forward to setup the new linkage.

BK

[Speeddog]

You're on the right path.

There's the possibility that you can puzzle it out after you've got the cover off.
But that's not nearly as good a plan as opening the cover *after* you've got the technique defined.

[booger]

Are you doing this to adjust the shifter mechanism for smoother operation? I wonder if I could talk you into documenting your process after you get it all figured out. This is an adjustment I'm sure others would like to make and you're in a good position to be a teacher of sorts. 

[BK_856er]

You're on the right path.

There's the possibility that you can puzzle it out after you've got the cover off.
But that's not nearly as good a plan as opening the cover *after* you've got the technique defined.

OK, decided to dive in regardless.

Alternator cover is off.  I can only figure out ONE way to attach the tool.  One hole attaches to the "alignment bushing" for the alternator cover, and the other hole (slightly elongated) is for the clutch slave pushrod.  In this configuration the pin of the tool rides on top of the shift selector fork and presses down on it.  The pin does not seem to correspond to the center mark on the selector fork.  I've been unable to get official instructions (not sure what gear the transmission is supposed to be in, etc.).

Here are some pics.  If anyone has any info I'm all ears!

The shifter mechanism itself seems to be fine.  All springs are intact, etc.  More slop than I was expecting from the shifter input shaft by the grab it and wiggle it test, but this is my first experience here.

BK

[Speeddog]

 

[BK_856er]

I should know more about the use of the tool in a couple of days.  Playing voicemail tag with a dealer contact.

I mentioned what I perceived as excessive slop in the overall linkage mechanism.  Not sure how much is normal, since this is the first one I've been into.  Too tight and it will bind up, too loose and it will lead to no good.  My objective with this project is to get the shifting working as good as I can and verify proper function and adjustment.

The diagram below shows two shim positions indicated in red.  Part numbers are available for 0.2mm and 0.5mm thickness shims.  Play here could account for the slop I noticed.  My manuals do not mention the shims.

Anyone have any experience or tips on fine-tuning the linkage?

BK

[BK_856er]

Found a good socket to remove the Nichols flywheel nuts, allowing me to finally remove the shift linkage.

Seems to be in order, except for some minor damage to two surfaces that interface with the shift drum.  The forward "hook" of the harpoon is a bit rounded off, and the flat piece that limits drum rotation has some metal gone.  I already have a new "harpoon" piece ready to go on.

BK

[booger]

Go to the European Cycle Services website, they have a tech section. During a racebike project they did adjust the shifter linkage on a superbike. Not totally applicable to your situation, but it may offer some insight since the 'harpoon' piece was mentioned and they explained what to do with it, kinda. It may help you out somewhat.

[BK_856er]

Go to the European Cycle Services website, they have a tech section. During a racebike project they did adjust the shifter linkage on a superbike. Not totally applicable to your situation, but it may offer some insight since the 'harpoon' piece was mentioned and they explained what to do with it, kinda. It may help you out somewhat.

Good call.  That photo series clarifies some things for me with respect to the pin contact with the tab piece.  Makes sense.  One comment struck home..."When they are this far out it can miss the pin and jam"...which sorta looks like what might have happened to my tab, and I did get stuck in gear once last year - partly prompting the current adventure.  I also see that my original harpoon tab, the part that was mising some metal, was only partially engaging the pin.  Maybe due to the slop in the mechanism.  I'll pay attention to that on reassembly.

BK

[BK_856er]

I finally connected with Marty at ducsea and he gave me the skinny on the new tool   

- The tool is positioned correctly in my pics.  Clutch pushrod should also go through the tool to correctly index it.

- The mystery pin is used to establish proper travel of the harpoon in both directions.  The pin goes BELOW the harpoon piece, not over it as shown in my pic.  That is the key part I was missing.  Now I get it.

- The new tool was developed because of linkage interference issues with the larger timing gears on some of the newer bikes.  It is said to be a far better tool.

- After using the tool, it's still important to verify proper contact with the overshift stop in both directions.

Talking with Mike at Nichols about some flywheel installation details, he says worn out or buggered up harpoon pieces are very common.  On his race bike he replaces them every few months.  So, my wear seems be pretty normal after 20k miles of twisties.

The minimal contact depth with the shift drum pins on my particular unit is because my harpoon piece is bent outward.  Confirmed this with a straight-edge.  Judging from the wear pattern it has been this way since new.  I think the slop in the uninstalled linkage is normal and not the cause of my issue.

BK

[junior varsity]

This is very interesting and shall be tucked away in my files. 


Didn't see it mentioned earlier, how much did said tool set you back?