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Author Topic: Leaky new oil cooler lines- what's the trick guys?  (Read 2182 times)
J.P.
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« on: May 03, 2010, 08:35:06 AM »

Stuck on some new braided lines from Frenturo- but the unions weep oil still. The nuts at the engine and cooler are ok. Tried the new Hylomar racing stuff, may not have gotten the threads perfectly clean, but still leaks the longer the ride.
Any suggestions?
Thanks! J.P.
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« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2010, 08:45:42 AM »

make SURE you didnt loosen the 'nuts' just even a tiny little. Also, clean (with dremel maybe) the contact surfaces on both sides (nut and fittings)

Lastly, I apply by finger a thin layer of yamalube or similar to the threads and contact surface of the "nuts". I think this will go a long way to cure weeping leaks. Anything under real pressure will get thru though
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« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2010, 07:30:52 PM »

There's O-rings on the OEM hose end fittings.
Did the FrenTubo lines have them?
Perhaps those are damaged?

There's crush washers between the 'adapter fittings' and the cooler, and between the 'adapter fittings' and the crankcase.
You can try tightening the 'adapter fittings'.
Make *sure* you put a wrench on hex of the cooler.
 
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« Reply #3 on: May 04, 2010, 02:51:13 AM »

No o-rings on them, only a conical face. Came w/ some type of blue film sealant on the face. I'm gonna try to re seal w/ hylomar again after I Completely clean them. Unfortunately this means draining the oil(again).
The adapter to engine/cooler came w/ aluminum washers and aren't leaking.
Over all a nice product and makes the engine seem to run 5-10 degrees f cooler. The fittings are aluminum and won't rust either.
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« Reply #4 on: May 04, 2010, 05:39:07 AM »

No need to drain the oil if you're cleaning the oil cooler line fittings... unless you're leaving the lines hooked up at the engine.

Did the lines come with fittings like these?

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« Reply #5 on: May 04, 2010, 06:00:53 AM »

Yes! Exactly.
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« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2010, 06:14:01 AM »

if they are like the one's that speed just posted, those are aluminum, and thus quite soft. Keep a look out for bent or damaged threads.
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« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2010, 07:22:04 AM »

Those fittings don't need sealer.

Use a new crush washer where they thread into the cooler and engine, and a bit of anti-seize on the threads.

Make sure the tapered face has no dings.
A little anti-seize on the threads and the tapered face.
Then tighten the hose fitting on.
Make *sure* you put a wrench on hex of the cooler.
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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2010, 09:56:15 AM »

Antisieze is the trick huh? Thanks.
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« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2010, 06:06:30 PM »

This is why speeddog implores the use of a wrench on the hex of the cooler....the cooler tears like a beer can....yep that's a brand new one with zero miles and it only took a momentary lapse of judgement to render it useless.  Epic fail.

BK



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J.P.
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2010, 06:16:09 AM »

Wow- thanks for the post! Guess I got lucky (twice).
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« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2010, 10:19:03 AM »

Also note that -AN fittings (like the one pictures) especially aluminum ones are very sensitive to over tightening.

If you deform or score the conical sealing surface you're done.

I was told to tighten them only until the flats of the hex line up.  Then just a squeek more only if it's weeping.

I've had 0 luck with the aluminum ones and 100% with the steel version.
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« Reply #12 on: January 17, 2011, 06:35:40 PM »

Taking notes.

New lines going on soon. Next weekend, maybe?
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« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2011, 08:24:33 PM »

This is why speeddog implores the use of a wrench on the hex of the cooler....the cooler tears like a beer can....yep that's a brand new one with zero miles and it only took a momentary lapse of judgement to render it useless.  Epic fail.

BK





what else do you use?

I think you mean 2 wrenches right?
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« Reply #14 on: January 17, 2011, 08:43:42 PM »

what else do you use?

I think you mean 2 wrenches right?

Yup.

One on the cooler fitting to take the torque you're putting on the line fitting.
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