Holy #@$ - the hex nuts for the seat compartment overtorqued much?!

Started by muffinman, December 10, 2010, 07:48:02 PM

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muffinman

Wow... trying to get to the brake light connector on my 696 to install the Vizi-Tec brakelight modulator and the hex bolts holding the black metal underneath compartment will not even BUDGE using the proper allen keys.  We've tried extending the "L" hex keys to get better leverage and had two people give it a try to no avail

Is it just my bike?  Any tips on how we can break this son of a pregnant dog loose?


Popeye the Sailor

Penetrating lube like PB blaster. Soak it, wait, soak it, wait.
If the state had not cut funding for the mental institutions, this project could never have happened.

Punx Clever

Little heat probably wouldn't hurt either.  Could be that it's been loc-tite'd.

OR, if you need an excuse to buy new tools... a small air-powered right angle impact wrench and some hex sockets would do the best job of getting em off...
like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00919932000P?prdNo=17&blockNo=17&blockType=G17
2008 S2R 1000 - Archangel

The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.  - HST

Popeye the Sailor

Quote from: Punx Clever on December 10, 2010, 09:32:20 PM
Little heat probably wouldn't hurt either.  Could be that it's been loc-tite'd.

OR, if you need an excuse to buy new tools... a small air-powered right angle impact wrench and some hex sockets would do the best job of getting em off...
like this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00919932000P?prdNo=17&blockNo=17&blockType=G17

I thought about heat but I imagine there's a fair bit of plastic in the area, so it might be best to avoid that route.



Dang new fangled plastic bikes.
If the state had not cut funding for the mental institutions, this project could never have happened.

hadesducati848

it is so much easier to get forgiveness then it will ever be to get permission.

Raux

are you talking about the four larger ones? there is a hex on the bottom AND top on those.

Rameses


More leverage.


Hex sockets.

3/8"-1/2" adapter if needed.

1/2"-3/4" adapter if it's really stubborn.

3/4"-1" adapter if it's really really stubborn.

Throw a breaker bar on the end of whichever of those is applicable and I've never seen anything argue with it.



(Except for that nut that was welded to that alternator bracket...

Felt pretty dumb when I couldn't break it loose with a 1" impact wrench.  [roll]

...that was definitely a testament to Craftsman hand tools though.  [thumbsup] )



BCMonster

Not sure where my previous post went, but I do not think you need to remove those. If you are talking about the ones that have the assembly yellow paint line across them, those can stay in place. It is the other four with the gear shaped rubber washers under them that you remove to gain access to the rear of the bike. The tight ones appear to be installed with an amazing thread locker and alot of torque. Strange that they used a hex fastener there.

muffinman

Quote from: BCMonster on December 12, 2010, 09:44:33 AM
Not sure where my previous post went, but I do not think you need to remove those. If you are talking about the ones that have the assembly yellow paint line across them, those can stay in place. It is the other four with the gear shaped rubber washers under them that you remove to gain access to the rear of the bike. The tight ones appear to be installed with an amazing thread locker and alot of torque. Strange that they used a hex fastener there.

Yup, I'm referring to the ones with the yellow paint marks - thanks much for the input, I'll try leaving those alone and just removing the (4) inner ones (w/ rubber gear washers)

muffinman

Quote from: Raux on December 11, 2010, 12:33:35 AM
are you talking about the four larger ones? there is a hex on the bottom AND top on those.

Yes, the four larger ones around the perimeter of the rear end (has yellow paint marks across them)

muffinman

So just tried again today.. no go, I bought a "heavy duty" hex key with a large handle with 10x torque... and the actual "L" shaped hex key snapped off.

Here's a picture of the hex screws I'm trying to get off (the ones marked with the yellow line)




xplodee

Good news is there's no real reason why you need to unscrew these. Be careful if you're trying though, I accidentally stripped one of these trying to unscrew it and now my only option is drilling it out. Since then I learned there's no reason to remove so I'm just ignoring it.
2009 M1100s
1988 Honda Hawk GT (track)

Past Bikes:
1995 Ducati Supersport 900CR
2007 Ducati Sportclassic S1000 SE

hadesducati848

Quote from: muffinman on February 05, 2011, 05:16:54 PM
So just tried again today.. no go, I bought a "heavy duty" hex key with a large handle with 10x torque... and the actual "L" shaped hex key snapped off.

Here's a picture of the hex screws I'm trying to get off (the ones marked with the yellow line)





i used a makita impact drill on the hard ones on my bike and they came off almost instantly
it is so much easier to get forgiveness then it will ever be to get permission.

muffinman

Quote from: xplodee on February 05, 2011, 07:39:54 PM
Good news is there's no real reason why you need to unscrew these. Be careful if you're trying though, I accidentally stripped one of these trying to unscrew it and now my only option is drilling it out. Since then I learned there's no reason to remove so I'm just ignoring it.

My understanding was you needed to remove those to get access to the taillight? (to install brake modulator and tail tidy kit)


BCMonster

Quote from: muffinman on February 05, 2011, 09:22:06 PM
My understanding was you needed to remove those to get access to the taillight? (to install brake modulator and tail tidy kit)


Nope, you do not need to remove these for what you are wanting to do.