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Author Topic: FCR install - with pods - prep questions  (Read 17965 times)
brad black
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« Reply #45 on: May 05, 2010, 01:30:24 AM »



i've already got one of them.  but in case tony is thinking of looking for it on friday morning, it's in my 851.
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Brad The Bike Boy

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« Reply #46 on: May 05, 2010, 04:25:20 AM »

haha.

Anything of note while using it that I should be aware of?  Install concerns? I was told I need to have a spacer machined for the "far left side bolt area" in this picture - to span the distance between the two sides where that bolt goes to the hoop - otherwise you risk deformation left/right from the hoop, which bolts around the outsides of it.

I think its going to be painted "old gold" on the trellis part, and black on the flats to make it mimic the frame on mine. Maybe. That might be overkill, but could be fun.
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DaFoose
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« Reply #47 on: May 05, 2010, 10:14:01 AM »

Hot bike, but my preference is sans belly pan. the more nekkid the better!  waytogo
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2001 Monster 900 S i.e.  Most recent mods: Smoke integrated tail light with full custom tailchop, Tail Risers
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« Reply #48 on: May 05, 2010, 10:27:44 AM »

My wife agrees with you. At this point, it stays because I had it painted and liked the paint scheme. I'd have a headlight fairing too, but mine was the old school round shape, and in the triple swaps over the years (cyclecat, then IMA), I lost the ability to mount it. Thought about getting a new-fangled headlight fairing which would mount right up, but the DP gauges interfere. Too many hassles, I gave up.

The bellypan nicely hides the horizontal cylinder's a/f sniffer, so it retains the carby "gizmo-free" look by using the bp to hide it.
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brad black
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« Reply #49 on: May 06, 2010, 02:07:28 AM »

haha.

Anything of note while using it that I should be aware of?  Install concerns? I was told I need to have a spacer machined for the "far left side bolt area" in this picture - to span the distance between the two sides where that bolt goes to the hoop - otherwise you risk deformation left/right from the hoop, which bolts around the outsides of it.

I think its going to be painted "old gold" on the trellis part, and black on the flats to make it mimic the frame on mine. Maybe. That might be overkill, but could be fun.

you need the right hoop.  some have the centre tube, some the opposite that won't work with this lever.  apart from that just all the right bits to suit work fine.
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Brad The Bike Boy

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« Reply #50 on: May 10, 2010, 07:28:17 AM »

Ok, i'm on to tuning.

Went on a good long ride yesterday. I'm a little bit rich everywhere it seems, except just as I roll on the throttle from a maintenance throttle position - it seems to go lean for part of that range and then a surge of power comes on (which is awesome by the way, but I need it to not be ho-hum and then surge, but rather just be going bananas from the beginning).

Seems like that's a needle size (diameter) change, yes?
That's what my reading is telling me. They come with EMT needles. The charts I'm staring at make me think I should look into EMS needles, and see if that solves the problem.
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koko64
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« Reply #51 on: May 10, 2010, 10:18:39 PM »

Ok, i'm on to tuning.

Went on a good long ride yesterday. I'm a little bit rich everywhere it seems, except just as I roll on the throttle from a maintenance throttle position - it seems to go lean for part of that range and then a surge of power comes on (which is awesome by the way, but I need it to not be ho-hum and then surge, but rather just be going bananas from the beginning).

Seems like that's a needle size (diameter) change, yes?
That's what my reading is telling me. They come with EMT needles. The charts I'm staring at make me think I should look into EMS needles, and see if that solves the problem.

G'day a m
How good are those carbs!

I think my bikes porting, pistons and Australian gas may make my jetting irrelevant, but here are some things I found.


If its rich cruising along it could be that big slow jet giving you a rich state on small load/small throttle openings. I did plug readings at steady cruising 45-50mph/1/4 throttle. Mine were very sooty and fouling plugs with the 60 slow jet.

I would try raising the needles for the mid range transition helping acceleration before the main jet kicks in. If you are winding it open and the bike really dies before taking off, you may need to raise the needles a few notches, but you know, everyone says go one notch at a time. I raised the needles a notch at a time untill I was satisfied with the bikes response. I looked for the transition to main jet to be seamless with no hesitation. You know you've gone too far when the thing starts blubbering/missing and you start heading down the other end of "the acceleration bell curve". I'd try that before buying new needles. With your pods set up that should be easy.

Unfortunately, the only way you will know what is the best main jet is to find a long hill (or drag strip) and find the jet size that gives you the highest terminal speed at your marker. It's a good way to go to jail where I live (or kill yourself). I wouldn't recommend it. Thank God for dynos.

If it kicks in real strong at full throttle then that's a good sign for the main jet being close. It could also be a sign of how much better the FCRs are!

I am running 52 slow jets, EMT needles at #6 out of #7 notches (very high) and pretty big 165 main jets. On my Superlight with the same mods, I ran this set up after extensive testing I would PM about. I am considering either going to the next richest needle or investigating a bigger accelerator pump jet, or not worrying about it! It goes great!

The Superlight had 39 FCRs, that is the only major difference in the engine mods. It came with the carbs and ran poorly untill I jetted it properly. The blend of engine modifications didn't work well untill the jetting was right.

I would try some smaller slow jets and needle pos-ns #4 and #5 because you can test them at legal and quasi legal speeds. You could try someones main jet size with the same mods (and gas) as your bike. 

PM or post for details when you test.

Cheers to FCRs chug


« Last Edit: May 10, 2010, 10:50:46 PM by koko64 » Logged

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« Reply #52 on: May 11, 2010, 01:15:01 AM »

The bellypan nicely hides the horizontal cylinder's a/f sniffer, so it retains the carby "gizmo-free" look by using the bp to hide it.
[/quote]

what wideband do you use? is it something you have wired on the bike all the time or just for tuning/logging data? i have 41 fcr too and was wondering the best way people tune them.
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« Reply #53 on: May 11, 2010, 01:37:41 AM »

The bellypan nicely hides the horizontal cylinder's a/f sniffer, so it retains the carby "gizmo-free" look by using the bp to hide it.


what wideband do you use? is it something you have wired on the bike all the time or just for tuning/logging data? i have 41 fcr too and was wondering the best way people tune them.

I wonder if its the gear Chris Kelly stocks in his catalogue?
Be real handy seeing what the carbs are doing as you ride if they work on a dash display.

Hey a m, were you referring to this kind of data or seat of the pants impressions re your jetting so far?
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« Reply #54 on: May 11, 2010, 05:40:03 AM »

I put mine under the seat and its for dyno tuning purposes. Its removable and I've got it set up with switches so you can go from horizontal to vertical cylinder. Also it has amusing lights
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greenmonster
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« Reply #55 on: May 11, 2010, 02:38:55 PM »

How many turns on the air screw?
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« Reply #56 on: May 11, 2010, 06:47:25 PM »

1.5 I think. Going to check tomorrow evening and will get back to you. Wife says I've had "enough garage time" for now. (What does that even mean?!)
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« Reply #57 on: May 11, 2010, 07:18:08 PM »

that means the whip has been cracked and some lady time has to happen. i get that too.
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« Reply #58 on: May 12, 2010, 12:14:32 PM »

Be carefull how you mount the bracket for the battery box and coils, I made one and only used the rear 2 lugs that are under the battery box (looks the same as all the ones in the pics) with no support at the front. The bracket I made is very rigid and it ended up cracking and braking the 2 lugs on the frame from the forward/backward motion of the bracket because it had no frontal support and has the weight of the battery ect on it.

its sorted now, I made a support that stops that movement.
I can take pics if you want...
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« Reply #59 on: May 12, 2010, 12:52:39 PM »

That is a good idea - I have plenty of room to run such a support forward. I'll take a look at it this evening, and work on getting some more CF angle to run towards the front where the airbox used to mount up.
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