Monster Emissions Cannister Removal

[mangeldbug]

Originally posted on Squidbusters.com (by me)

Once you get a Monster, there are seemingly a few mods that everyone does first thing. 

One is removal of the emissions cannister, which does nothing for performance and just adds a few pounds and looks ugly.  This write-up will be good for all newer Monsters (all sizes including S2R/S4R).  Monsters 2000 and older have a different set up, I believe.

**Disclaimer**
The Monster emissions system is mandated by the state of California and other states that have adopted CARB laws. If you live in these states and choose to modify or remove it you could be facing big legal troubles.
************

OK, that said, here is a picture of the Monster with the emissions can on; its hidden behind the big ugly aluminum cover.


Now to get started.

You will need:
8mm Allen wrench
four 5/8 x 1.25 washers
two M5 0.80 x 10 hex head bolts
sheers to cut hoses
fuel line
6mm brass Y- or T- connector (optional)
three small hose clamps (optional)

The aluminum evap can cover is bolted into the footpeg bracket, so the first thing you gotta do is take that off.  Use a 8mm Allen wrench. 

I took off the entire bracket (5 bolts total), but I think all you NEED to do is take out the two bolts that are holding on the aluminum cover and maybe loosen the other bolts.  The evap cannister is secured to the back of the aluminum cover by clips, so once the aluminum cover is free all you have to do is slide it off.  I took the aluminum cover to NAPA and found some washers the same width of the bracket that I would need for spacers when I put everything back together (two stacked 5/8 x 1.25 washers fit perfect).

Now cut all three hoses where they connect to the evap can. 

One hose is a waste tube and connects to nothing; that is now trash. 

The thicker hose connects to the fuel tank.  There are two things you can do with this: 
1.  route it with the other vent hose coming from the tank to the bottom of the engine, or
2.  get a T- or Y- connector and mate the two vent hoses into one and run it down to the bottom of the engine.  I used a 6mm brass T-connector and secured the hoses with small hose clamps.

The third hose you follow back to the throttle bodies, one on each side of the engine.  Remove the hose and the gold nipple underneath from each.  Take the small washer off the gold nipple, put it on your M5 hex head bolt (0.80 x 10) dabbed with a little locktite, and plug the hole.  Do this for both sides.

If you havent done this already, put the 8mm bolts back on the footpeg bracket remembering to put your washers in for spacers.  Put a bit of loctite on these bolts as well.

All done!  And look what a difference it makes!


And more good news:  I was able to lose 4 ugly zip ties that were securing the evap hoses to the frame for good!

[jarheadtex]

Originally posted on Squidbusters.com (by me)

Once you get a Monster, there are seemingly a few mods that everyone does first thing. 

One is removal of the emissions cannister, which does nothing for performance and just adds a few pounds and looks ugly.  This write-up will be good for all newer Monsters (all sizes including S2R/S4R).  Monsters 2000 and older have a different set up, I believe.

**Disclaimer**
The Monster emissions system is mandated by the state of California. If you live in CA and choose to modify or remove it you could be facing big legal troubles.
************

OK, that said, here is a picture of the Monster with the emissions can on; its hidden behind the big ugly aluminum cover.


Now to get started.

You will need:
8mm Allen wrench
four 5/8 x 1.25 washers
two M5 0.80 x 10 hex head bolts
sheers to cut hoses
fuel line
6mm brass Y- or T- connector (optional)
three small hose clamps (optional)

The aluminum evap can cover is bolted into the footpeg bracket, so the first thing you gotta do is take that off.  Use a 8mm Allen wrench. 

I took off the entire bracket (5 bolts total), but I think all you NEED to do is take out the two bolts that are holding on the aluminum cover and maybe loosen the other bolts.  The evap cannister is secured to the back of the aluminum cover by clips, so once the aluminum cover is free all you have to do is slide it off.  I took the aluminum cover to NAPA and found some washers the same width of the bracket that I would need for spacers when I put everything back together (two stacked 5/8 x 1.25 washers fit perfect).

Now cut all three hoses where they connect to the evap can. 

One hose is a waste tube and connects to nothing; that is now trash. 

The thicker hose connects to the fuel tank.  There are two things you can do with this: 
1.  route it with the other vent hose coming from the tank to the bottom of the engine, or
2.  get a T- or Y- connector and mate the two vent hoses into one and run it down to the bottom of the engine.  I used a 6mm brass T-connector and secured the hoses with small hose clamps.

The third hose you follow back to the throttle bodies, one on each side of the engine.  Remove the hose and the gold nipple underneath from each.  Take the small washer off the gold nipple, put it on your M5 hex head bolt (0.80 x 10) dabbed with a little locktite, and plug the hole.  Do this for both sides.

If you havent done this already, put the 8mm bolts back on the footpeg bracket remembering to put your washers in for spacers.  Put a bit of loctite on these bolts as well.

All done!  And look what a difference it makes!


And more good news:  I was able to lose 4 ugly zip ties that were securing the evap hoses to the frame for good!

[Goat_Herder]

Just did the same mod 2 weeks ago.  For those of you who are considering, don't forget to plug the inlets at the vertial and horizontal cylinders (where the hoses used to go to).  Replace the brass parts with M5 screws and seal it with liquid gasket. 

[Raux]

and for those of you with 696... i dont think it's an M5 screw.

[ducatiz]

Just a point of info, the piece you are removing is called an "evaporative emission" canister, as opposed to exhaust emissions.

USA is the only place that has them due to CARB laws.  Technically, you have to have them in the 11 states (all the northeastern states) that adopt CARB laws, not just Cali.

[mangeldbug]

USA is the only place that has them due to CARB laws.  Technically, you have to have them in the 11 states (all the northeastern states) that adopt CARB laws, not just Cali.

When this mod was done and I wrote up the original How-To (2006), Cali was the only state that required it.  Thanks for the update.  I will modify the original disclaimer

[ducatiz]

When this mod was done and I wrote up the original How-To (2006), Cali was the only state that required it.  Thanks for the update.  I will modify the original disclaimer

it's been that way for a while, NY has been a CARB state since around 1998

"States following the California standards include Maine, Massachusetts, New York, Oregon, Vermont, and Washington and are frequently referred to as "CARB states" in automotive discussions since the regulations are defined by the California Air Resources Board."

I believe there are 8 in total, I was wrong about 11.  That is why the new Jeep diesels are only "42 state legal."

Cali is probably the only state that does check on inspection though, I know for a fact that NY does NOT look for the evap during inspection. 

[donzo]

Do you have any photos of the cannister with the aluminum cover removed, or some non close-up shots of the area?  So in the end, what does removing the emmissions cannister do for the bike?  What is the original purpose of the cannister?  Did you put the footpeg back on, and what does it look like all reassembled?  I've got an '07S2R800 from Illinois.  Does anyone know if I would have the cannister on?  I'll have a peak tonight.  Donzo

[jdubbs32584]

Do you have any photos of the cannister with the aluminum cover removed, or some non close-up shots of the area?  So in the end, what does removing the emmissions cannister do for the bike?  What is the original purpose of the cannister?  Did you put the footpeg back on, and what does it look like all reassembled?  I've got an '07S2R800 from Illinois.  Does anyone know if I would have the cannister on?  I'll have a peak tonight.  Donzo

Its a black squarish looking thing on the left side of your 800 if you're sitting on it. It'll be by the oil cooler so your question about the aluminum cover really does not apply since thats not used for the S*R series to hide the canister.

Here: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=2337.0

And here: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=15223.0

[MadDaddy]

and for those of you with 696... i dont think it's an M5 screw.

Raux, do you know what size they are on a 696?

[Raux]

Raux, do you know what size they are on a 696?

no, i never took mine off to go get a recheck on the size. i just put them next to the M5 that i bought and said.. mmm nope. and then put them back on.

I would take it off, then go to Homedepot. they have a wallboard with metric holes to check it.

[Special K]

I'm with the crowd that says put vacuum caps (1/8) on the nipples (beavis chuckle). it's A. easier, you don't break the seal on the bolt that's already good and B. if the eco-nuts ever get their way it'll make it easier to put back on.

If you live in one of the 11 or 12 carb states, beware. Never underestimate the crazy s**t politicians will pull. As of right now, I think only Callie checks for this at inspection but all carb states could push compliance.

[ducatiz]

i put vacuum caps on mine (about 2 years ago, on my s2r) and they've worked perfectly since them

put a dab of grease on the nipple (heh heh heh) before you put on the cap and twist the cap to spread it (heh heh heh) and it seals perfectly.

i don't see any reason to remove the nipples.  keeping them means you have easy setup for balance if you need it.

removing them means you have to put in nipples, which means removing the screw-plugs.

[WetDuc]

I used this tutorial to take my canister off my 695.
Took me about 15-20 mins, and WOW...I didn't think it would make any difference, but it did!
I used rubber vacuum caps to cover the nipples on the intake manifolds.  I used the old tee fitting to unite the vent and drain hoses from the gas tank and a short section of tubing from the old canister to run the united line to the bottom of the bike. 
I started it up and noticed immediately that it started with less hesitation and was definitely louder!  So COOL!  Power delivery may actually be smoother and the power feels perfectly normal.  All in all, a great $1.89 mod.

[Chucko9-696]

I took the can off my monster (696) they are 5mm screws. More naked