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Author Topic: ungeheuer 696 - featuring ceramic coated exhaust, speedymoto tallboys..  (Read 32647 times)
ungeheuer
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« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2009, 05:22:01 AM »

drink  <<< that's exactly what I'm doing right now  Grin  Cheers 1313  chug
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mrplease
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« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2009, 01:27:57 PM »

got a question. i'm taking my top triple off to get powder coated. can i just remove them off my bike on the kickstand? you had posted a pic in my thread without the top triple on. do i just loosen the three allen bolts and just slide them off the top? please help me out on how to get them off...
« Last Edit: June 20, 2009, 08:27:23 PM by mrplease » Logged

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« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2009, 01:55:02 AM »

Thanks for the photos and report.
I am in two minds so badly over getting these or Swatts......

what to do, what to do.  Huh?
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« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2009, 02:12:04 AM »

Thanks for the photos and report.
I am in two minds so badly over getting these or Swatts......

what to do, what to do.  Huh?

If you plan on riding your power bike anywhere close to it's/yours limits - get the Swatts because of, if only, the more radical sweep back angle. It lowers your elbows, relaxes your wrists and therefor lets the bike do it's thing with very little rider input.

The Tall Boys are great, but it seems they are more in the direction of stock height and sweep angle - active city riding and lane splitting - elbows out, maybe lifted (sore?) shoulders.

Two different riding styles / preferances. Which is yours? [moto]
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« Reply #19 on: June 21, 2009, 02:19:37 AM »

got a question. i'm taking my top triple off to get powder coated. can i just remove them off my bike on the kickstand? you had posted a pic in my thread without the top triple on. do i just loosen the three allen bolts and just slide them off the top? please help me out on how to get them off...
Well... yeah...more or less.  Once you remove all the obvious other stuff... remove those 3 allen bolts and carefully and evenly tap the top triple up and off with a rubber mallet.  I had my bike on a paddock stand but I guess you can do it on the side-stand too if you're not too enthusiastic with the rubber mallet.  And dont forget the loctite blue for when it all goes back together.
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ungeheuer
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« Reply #20 on: June 21, 2009, 02:45:59 AM »

....get the Swatts because of, if only, the more radical sweep back angle.
+1 (kinda)
I was initially a little disappointed with the scope available for sweepback when I first installed the Speedymotos.

The Tall Boys are great, but it seems they are more in the direction of stock height and sweep angle - active city riding and lane splitting - elbows out, maybe lifted (sore?) shoulders.

Dont know about Swatts but the Speedymotos as fitted to a 696 are going to give you no more than 50mm lower height over stock - I have mine set just around 35mm lower.  I do no city riding nor lane splitting, only ever ride on the twisty back roads and I found the Speedymotos to be an unbelievable improvement over the stock bars - despite the lack of sweepback available.  If I knew what I know now I'd order the Swatts rather than the Speedymotos coz you're not obliged to go the radical sweepback, but with the Swatts you will have the option to go more radical if you wish.  So I'm delighted with the Speedymotos but Swatts I think will give you a greater range of options.  Might be more of a PITA to fit though?  Stopintime?

« Last Edit: February 07, 2011, 03:49:14 AM by ungeheuer » Logged

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mrplease
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« Reply #21 on: June 21, 2009, 05:18:44 AM »

Well... yeah...more or less.  Once you remove all the obvious other stuff... remove those 3 allen bolts and carefully and evenly tap the top triple up and off with a rubber mallet.  I had my bike on a paddock stand but I guess you can do it on the side-stand too if you're not too enthusiastic with the rubber mallet.  And dont forget the loctite blue for when it all goes back together.

ok great. so my main concern is the bottom triple will hold the bike together when the top triple is off. right?
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ungeheuer
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« Reply #22 on: June 21, 2009, 06:33:07 AM »

ok great. so my main concern is the bottom triple will hold the bike together when the top triple is off. right?

Yup - no worries there.
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ungeheuer
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« Reply #23 on: June 30, 2009, 09:38:31 PM »

.......those foot-peg hangers have got to go since they're now the only remaining textured grey item on the bike.

Yeah I know  Evil....  had to do it  Wink.... rear-sets are on the way  Grin
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« Reply #24 on: July 01, 2009, 02:49:23 PM »

Yeah I know  Evil....  had to do it  Wink.... rear-sets are on the way  Grin

Which rear-sets did you go with?
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« Reply #25 on: July 02, 2009, 09:14:31 PM »

WOW that thing looks incredible! I think we have the finest collection of the most modded 696s on the interweb!

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ungeheuer
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« Reply #26 on: July 04, 2009, 03:38:04 AM »

WOW that thing looks incredible! I think we have the finest collection of the most modded 696s on the interweb!
...and soon to be featuring Ryan "Nevetheless, as for my car truly fast drive, I ride in the motorcycle like the genital organ of the woman" Racer Edition titanium tank bolt kit.   

With thanks to >> http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt  Wink
« Last Edit: July 04, 2009, 03:40:52 AM by ungeheuer » Logged

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« Reply #27 on: July 06, 2009, 08:50:32 PM »

...and soon to be featuring Ryan "Nevetheless, as for my car truly fast drive, I ride in the motorcycle like the genital organ of the woman" Racer Edition titanium tank bolt kit.   

With thanks to >> http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_txt  Wink


ROFL.  That's just great.  I just tried that site w/ Ryan's sig.
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2005 Buell XB12S | 2006 Honda CBR 600RR | 2005 Ducati Multistrada 1000DS | 2009 Ducati Monster 696+
ungeheuer
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« Reply #28 on: July 08, 2009, 09:18:56 PM »

thanks for the pics. i pmed you. i was wanting to get those rizoma camshaft covers from pjs parts but pj couldn't tell me if they would fit the 696 or not. can you give me a part number on those?
http://www.pjsparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1397

also, can you tell me a little about getting those pipes off. i think i'm going to attempt that in the real near future! also what color did you go with. those are a perfect black!
Removing the exhaust wasnt so hard:

Remove seat, underseat tool-tray and fuel tank* (careful with those quick release fuel line connectors!).  
Remove your Termis.
Remove both lambda sensors (22mm open-ended spanner I think...).
Loosen the two chrome pipe clamps (10mm)
Unbolt the Y section (the 2 allen bolts are only accessible once the tank is out of the way*).  For some reason, one of the nuts on the underside of the Y section is welded in place but the other one is held by one of those crappy clip-in spring holder things....
One more slightly awkward to get at allen bolt underneath holding the rear U bend section on...  accessible - kinda lol - from the behind the right side foot-peg, careful of the rear-brake line.  
Loosen and remove the nuts securing the exhaust pipe flanges to the cylinder heads.  The outer nut on the rear cylinder I found I could only access with a 10mm tube-spanner, no room to get a ring-spannner, open-ended spanner or socket in there.
Remove the horizontal cylinder exhaust pipe from the front cylinder head.
Remove the vertical exhaust pipe from the back cylinder head.

I found that the exhaust gaskets wanted to stay attached to the cylinder heads so I left em there, but its probably good practice to fish em out and refit with new ones.

Block off the exhaust ports on the heads to prevent unwanted junk from entering the combustion chamber - I stuffed a clean rag in there, not too far though.

And as far as I remember, that's about it.  

A couple of points for the refit:
Prior to screwing the lambda sensors back in, carefully twist the wiring looms counter-clockwise so that as you screw the sensors clockwise back into the exhaust pipe the loom ends up nice and straight and not all twisted up.  
Also, I used a little graphite powder on the pipe joins - allows 'em to slip back together real easy.

This isnt the definitive "how-to" but I think it more or less describes how i achieved the task!  

And yup, by pure luck the semi-gloss black finish does match perfectly  Cool.  Very happy with the result.
Thanks  Smiley

*Edit: mrplease reports that is not necessary to completely remove the petrol tank to get to the "Y section" mid-pipe bolts, so if you can avoid fiddling with those pesky quick release fuel-line connectors and still get the job done then I reckon its worth a go.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2011, 03:59:23 AM by ungeheuer » Logged

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ungeheuer
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« Reply #29 on: July 18, 2009, 04:56:21 AM »

Which rear-sets did you go with?
Rizoma rear sets  Grin.  

Along with cool new Rizoma timing belt covers, rear brake reservoir, oil filler-cap and RyanRacer edition Ti tank bolts.  I also lowered the instument binnacle by around 12mm to pull it in tighter to the top-triple.







The ungeheuer 696 story now goes like this:
DP tail tidy. Red reflective rim stripes. DP Touring seat. 14 tooth front sprocket. Rizoma Sportline billet grips. Rizoma bar-end weights. Rizoma Class Retro mirrors. Billet reservoir covers. Stebel Nautilus air horn (heard but not seen). Pazzo levers. Termis. Ozynobs frame and axle sliders. Black ceramic coated exhaust. Polished aluminium-look ceramic coated exhaust heat shield, headlight bezel and Termi hangers. Rizoma billet camshaft end caps. SpeedyMoto Tall-boy clip-ons. SpeedyMoto top triple clamp. SpeedyMoto billet crankshaft end cap. Black-on-silver Termi decals. Rizoma rear-sets. Rizoma timing belt covers. Rizoma rear brake reservoir. Rizoma oil filler-cap. Ryanracer Ti tank bolts. Lowered instrument binnacle. Bikini fairing and exhaust-can heat shields relocated to garage shelf.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2011, 03:54:08 AM by ungeheuer » Logged

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