Socket and Hammer method of floating rotors

[VisceralReaction]

In another thread there was a mention about a method of using a socket and hammer to do something
to your rotor buttons to make the rotors float. Does anyone want to explain this method or point out a link
on how to do this? I know there are a couple of us that are interested in doing this.
Thanks!
M

[scott_araujo]

Don't have all the details but here's the basic idea:

The stock rotors are "semi-floating".  The discs are held in place on the carriers by buttons and spring washers that should let the rotor move in and out just a little bit along the axis of the axle.  What often happens is the little buttons and the spring washers get crudded up with dust and dirt and they don't move freely, making the formerly semi-floating rotor a fixed rotor.  You can do two things:
1) Carefully clean and very carefully lubricate the buttons to restore movement.  This generally needs to be repeated at regular intervals.
2) Remove the wheel and then remove the rotors.  Get a socket that is just big enough to fit over the buttons on the rotor.  Pad the edge of the socket with duct tape, place the button in the center of the socket on a solid work bench, and whack the button on the other side with a hammer.  This will slightly compress the spring washer and turn your semi-floating rotors into full floating rotors.

If you do this right you may here some click-clicking from the front rotors as the buttons move around.

I may be doing this myself soon.  If I do I'll try to post more details.

Scott

[ducpainter]

In another thread there was a mention about a method of using a socket and hammer to do something
to your rotor buttons to make the rotors float. Does anyone want to explain this method or point out a link
on how to do this? I know there are a couple of us that are interested in doing this.
Thanks!
M

It's easy....

The hardest part is often getting the rotors off.

Remove wheel and then rotors.

Take a 19mm deep socket and cover the open end with duct tape...that will prevent marking the rotors or carriers.

Turn the rotor so the large end of the button fits inside the open end of the socket. You want to support the rotor and carrier with the socket.

Hit the rivet (small end of the button) with a hammer. What you're trying to do is flatten the wave washer slightly. You have to hit it harder than you think.

Move around the rotor until all the buttons move by hand. The amount they move is directly proportional to the jingle they make.

This is a very imprecise method. I've done both of my bikes this way and am happy with the results. As always...YMMV.

[VisceralReaction]

Very cool, thanks guys. Another bit of information for our new tech board!
M

[Serenitynow]

So, what is the net result? Could you tell a night and day difference in your stopping power? Does it just make a cool jangly sound? I'm not putting the idea down...just wanting to learn that's all. I've actually never felt the lack of braking power on any motorcycle I've ridden. Every one I've been on has had more than enough braking power to get me into trouble! 

[EvilSteve]

Yep. Thanks for the info guys.

[Dietrich]

I'm about to pull my rotors to swap wheels.  Someone want to explain the potential benefits of this mod?
(I'm always up for fixing things with hammers...!  )

[A.duc.H.duc.]

  The real benefit to floating your rotors is that it compensates for any slight warping of the breaking surface. If your rotors aren't perfectly straight (most that have been used at all are not) you push your caliper around as the rotor surface moves back and forth, and may feel pulsing in the lever at extremes. If you allow the rotor to float on the carrier, instead of moving the caliper around, the rotor itself will just slide back and forth on the carrier.

   If any increased breaking is felt it's either because your old rotors were severely warped or due to a little less heat generation at the caliper.

Justin

[ducpainter]

  The real benefit to floating your rotors is that it compensates for any slight warping of the breaking surface. If your rotors aren't perfectly straight (most that have been used at all are not) you push your caliper around as the rotor surface moves back and forth, and may feel pulsing in the lever at extremes. If you allow the rotor to float on the carrier, instead of moving the caliper around, the rotor itself will just slide back and forth on the carrier.

   If any increased breaking is felt it's either because your old rotors were severely warped or due to a little less heat generation at the caliper.

Justin

ding ding ding....

I did this before I bedded things in properly on the monster.

I did it on the SS to avoid an issue due to heat generated on the track.

[Ash]

i thought the main (racing) purpose of floating rotors is so that they "bang" the pads after brake pressure is released, which reduces the static drag on the rotors by the pads in released state... thereby reducing parasitic losses (increased top speed and acceleration at higher speeds).

not discounting the other reason stated, but this is what i've been told is the main purpose...

[ducpainter]

i thought the main (racing) purpose of floating rotors is so that they "bang" the pads after brake pressure is released, which reduces the static drag on the rotors by the pads in released state... thereby reducing parasitic losses (increased top speed and acceleration at higher speeds).

not discounting the other reason stated, but this is what i've been told is the main purpose...

You're probably right..

You can read....

[Ash]

You can read....

just learned!  i is smert!

[knightrider]

from my expierence, cuz i just did this like 2 days ago, 20mm socket works better, my 19 got stuck on the button when i whacked it.  also, i dont really see why a deep socket is needed. i used 3 20mm sockets arranged in a triangle to properly support the rotor flat on the workbench and would smack each one, then rotate.   worked like a charm, and my slight pulse in the brakes when away. now to fix the squeak on my rear brake.

[ducpainter]

from my expierence, cuz i just did this like 2 days ago, 20mm socket works better, my 19 got stuck on the button when i whacked it.  also, i dont really see why a deep socket is needed. i used 3 20mm sockets arranged in a triangle to properly support the rotor flat on the workbench and would smack each one, then rotate.   worked like a charm, and my slight pulse in the brakes when away. now to fix the squeak on my rear brake.

I used a deep socket because I only used one and it left more room for my knuckles.   

[Augustus]

not to be a thread jacker, but what are radially mounted brakes?  Do some new duc's have them and some not?  So I can take a look and let it soak in.