Ducati Monster Forum

Swap S2R 800 with 2003/04 GSX-R 1000 Forks
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5700/21056723110_b81151f6dc_c.jpg)

I switched my forks out for a pair of 2003 GSX-R 1000 Forks, which are adjustable, and a direct fit for the stock triples. This thread started on TOB by b.h. (http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=8161)
 GSXR Forks project (http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/index.php?topic=68331.0), as well as the folks posting, were instrumental in the completion of this project, and to them I owe a big THANK YOU. This was my original thread on TOB, Fork Swap with Radial brakes on an S2R...w/pic! (http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/index.php?topic=68110.0) , and terrapete (http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=4801) supplied the drawings for the spacers, which were fabricated.
While I was at it I also upgraded to 320mm rotors. The forks were freshly rebuilt, and came with calipers as well as spacers for 320mm rotors.

What you will need:
1.   A bit of mechanical wit…smarts…courage…patience!
2.   Torque wrench
3.   Torx/Star Bit set
4.   Lock-Tite
5.   24mm allen key, or M16 grade 8 bolt and 2 nuts (24mm allen substitute & cheaper)
6.   Metric Sockets, Allen Keys and Wrenches (of course)
7.   Smallish flathead screwdriver (for adjusting forks)
8.   Spacers and fender adapter. (current Machinist making spacers: Qfactor (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?action=profile;u=518))
9.   A set of GSXR forks, I don’t have specifics on years that were the same, I used ‘03/’04 1000s.
10.   S2R 5 Spoke stock wheel (I am sure other years have the same dimensions, but I can’t verify this)
11.   A device to support the bike, while you take off the forks. (I used a bike Jack)
12.   Brake fluid
13.   Extra Banjo bolt for caliper, single line(GSX-R uses a single and a stacked line configuration instead of two separate lines)
And what you will need to know:
1.   GSXR forks are 6.35mm (1/4”) longer then the stockers
2.   Torque Specifications:
a.   Rotor Bolts = 24Nm
b.   Top and Bottom Triples bolts for fork legs = 24Nm tighten 1-2-1 sequence
c.   Caliper mounting bolts = 39Nm
d.   Brake Lines = 23Nm
e.   Brake Pad Guide = 16Nm
f.   Axle bolt = 63Nm
g.   Fork Axle Pinch Bolts = 23Nm 1-2-1 sequence
3.   Suspension Settings:
a.   Spring Pre-Load = 4.5 lines exposed (5 lines max, 0 line is top)
b.   Rebound Damping = 6 counter clockwise clicks from stiffest position (stiffest is clockwise till stop)
c.   Compression Damping = 11 counter clockwise clicks from stiffest position (stiffest is clockwise till stop)
4.   How to bleed brakes
5.   Apply lock-Tite

Here is how I did it;

The ’03 GSXR 1000 weighs in at 380lbs. dry, claims Suzuki, and the S2R weighs in at 381lbs. dry also, however weight distribution is different in that the monster is heavier in the rear then the GSXR.
These forks are about 6.35mm (1/4”) longer then the stockers.

Spacers.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/604/21234085312_c4cbc22f26_c.jpg)

First, jack the bike up off the front wheel and disassemble…disconnect brake lines, remove fork legs from triples, and wheel. After they are apart, remove the rotors from the wheel.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/578/21057701659_83aa51b545_c.jpg)
 Now, clean that filthy wheel, and rotors!!
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5682/21244554495_e90c3b6bbb_c.jpg)
Add rotor spacers, then rotors, Lock-Tite and torque Star bolts to 24Nm.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5684/21234085332_81ba1f05bb_c.jpg)

Now insert the fork legs about 6.35mm(1/4”) above the top triple (be precise), and just snug the top and bottom triple clamp bolts to ‘hold’ the fork legs while you fit the pieces…axle should help straighten up the legs. Insert the axle nut (side with the big flange) into the left fork leg and Lock-Tite then torque pinch bolts to 23Nm….1-2-1 sequence. Now slide in the axle in thru the right fork leg it should align easily with the nut, if not readjust the fork leg at the triple. Do Not tighten the axle, just snug it and tighten the pinch bolts on that fork leg temporarily. At this point, I actually loosened the triple bolts to make sure everything was relaxed, as to avoid any fork binding.

Once you are sure of the fitment, tighten the triple clamps to 24Nm, if you removed the bolts apply some grease to them before tightening, bottom clamp to be tightened in a 1-2-1 sequence. Install the calipers, torque mount bolts to 39Nm. I was able to reuse my stock brake lines, however, I purchased a separate banjo bolt for the left side, and since I did not have a stacked brake line configuration on that caliper as the GSX-R does. I was also able to reuse my brake lines. Torque banjo bolts to 23Nm. Before you insert the wheel and rotor assembly, remove the brake pads from the calipers, as to not scare their surface when installing the wheel.

Next, loosen the pinch bolts on the right fork leg and remove the axle, we are ready to install the Wheel. Two sets of hands will help here as you insert the new washer on the right side of the hub and the milled spacer on the left side. Lift wheel into position and slide axle thru fork leg, before you contact the hub, insert the thin spacer (beveled side toward fork) then slide axle thru the hub. As the axle reaches the left side of the hub, insert the milled spacer replacing your OEM spacer, make contact with axle nut and tighten to 63Nm. Tighten pinch bolts on right fork leg to 23nNm.

Add brake pads to calipers, and tighten brake pad guide to 16Nm, snap in springs to guide. Now add brake fluid and bleed your brakes.

Install your fender adapter and fender…Lock-Tite all nuts and bolts.
You could skip the adapter if you have the Gixxer fender instead. I liked the look of the stock fender, so i removed the extra tab on the back of the fork to clean it up.

Time to reset the forks to the original factory settings, and then you can tinker with it until they feel right to you.
 Here are some links I found that helped me:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suspension_(motorcycle)#Damping_adjustment  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suspension_(motorcycle)#Damping_adjustment)
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0402_susp/ (http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0402_susp/)
http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm (http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm)
http://www.dynobike.com/motorcycle_suspension.htm (http://www.dynobike.com/motorcycle_suspension.htm)

(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5824/21056449270_a7d0534ac3_c.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5709/20623439843_09a252682b_c.jpg)

After some commuting to work, and a few back road romps, these forks are a well recommended improvement. I haven’t dialed them in yet, but I figure it will take some trial and error to complete the project. This process was very easy, especially with the help of my fellow DMLrs.

I should have taken more photos of each step, but didn’t realize it until I started this write up...too late. This seems to be a popular topic, so if you find some information in here that is unclear, or plain wrong, please let me know so I can update this post.

Fender adapter is finished.
spacer drawing, and fender bracket.
S2R GSX-R FORK SWAP Drawing File  (http://www.agentburns.com/thingy/S2R%20GSX-R%20FORK%20SWAP.pdf)
Current Machinist making spacers: Qfactor (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?action=profile;u=518)

be sure to take multiple measurements. Double and triple check before you have spacers made. It is recommended to mock up the front end before having spacers made.

DISCLAIMER:
 this drawing is for reference only, use them at your own risk.
GSX-R Forks That Fit:
'03-'04 1000cc
Spring Rate: Some members have complained that the NEWER fork spring rates are too stiff at:
.85 on GSXR 600
.10 on GSXR 750
.95 on GSXR 1000
However, the 2003 GSXR 1000 forks are .85, so check your fork spring rates before you buy a set of forks. Do a little research to see what should fit your weight and riding style first. You can always replace the springs and oil later if necessary.


Thanks,
RB

P.S. This is my thread it belongs to me, i started it and i keep it updated with all the info you great folks provide. So it lives where i live.

 be:: sweet, big up for putting this back on.
perfect timing. Hopefully the pics will appear soon.

 I still believe that this mod is useless without changing out the springs.

 Yes the claimed dry weight of the GSXR is 380lbs but as we all know, the Japanese manufacturers tend to stretch the truth from time to time on the actual specs.

 With that in mind there are other things to consider.

 1. The GSXR hold 1.8 Gallons of fuel than the Monster
 2. The GSXR is liquid cooled, thus you also have to consider the added weight of coolant.
 3. The GSXR carries it's weight considerably more forward than the Monster.

 I mentioned this on TOB right after I did the swap on Jewcati's S2R. We both found the ride to be overy harsh and the front end just skipped over the bumps. I tried adjusting the suspension and nothing I could do made it any better. The bike was actually sold last year to another local rider that I know and I spoke with him a few days ago regarding the fork swap. He felt the same way we did and is now planning on removing the forks and having the correct springs installed.

 I just wanted to give a heads up in case any other members are considering this mod.

should i revise the wording, is it not clear.

RB

 No not at all. I just think there are a bunch of members from TOB that thought it was a great mod. Regardless of which bike they come from they'll be too stiff to work on a Monster without changing the springs.

 

 Thanks for sharing.I was not able to see the pics.Did you adapt your speedometer to GSX-R frontend?

This is an awesome write up!  be::

On this forum there is a 'How To' section - this could probably be posted there as well, for easy to find future reference!  wt:

Again, nice job :)

no, i have an S2R, which has a rear wheel sensor. That is one of the issues with the older bikes.

RB

On the older bikes the speed sensor acts as a spacer for the left side. I would think it would still be a pretty easy swap so long as you had the right spacer in conjunction with the sensor.

Great write-up, thanks a bunch!

Do you have any idea what other types of GSX-R forks would be a direct swap? Would the 600 or 750 also work? And how about spring rating then?

Cheers!

look above there is a post with the spring rates. The 600, 750 and 1000s are all the same size fork with different spring rates.

RB

What if you want to just use the GSXR rim and rotors with the GSXR1k forks?  Is it a direct swap then with no spacers needed?  Or are the Ducati triples spacing the forks out differently? 

i don't know the answer to that, i would bet the triple spacing is different on the GSXR and the Monster....just a guess though.

AFAIK the GSXR axle works, so I'd have to assume the triples are not spaced differently, I know a lot of people want to continue using the brembo rotors so they stick with the Ducati wheel, and adapt spacers to fit the GSXR calipers.

I do believe you could swap the entire GSXR front end on to the Ducati triples, but can't give it a 100%.

Justin

Justin is right, but the geometry of the GSXR being different than the monster, the offset of the triples is different. Using the gsxr triples would enduce important changes in the bikes geometry.

Q

Well I wasn't saying you'd want to.
Besides, if you carried over the triples, you'd have to fine a new way to mount gauges, and you'd have to go with clip-ons, etc, etc...

bump...added pics
Sorry for the delay.

RB

About eight months later, but ok.

I'm still trying to finish this mod myself. Just need the spacers made and forks re-valved.

looks like theres not alot of travel on the forks. did you get it resprung atleast?

I'm going to have a set of Racetech vales and springs installed in a few weeks.

i have not, it is on the list of things to do

awesome... i think i will try this mod out if i can find a deal on some decent forks. 

quick double check.. its possible to use brembos (non stock s2r800) on these forks? 

i like the fact that they are gold... really looks sharp.

anyone making these spacers/fender adapters anymore? or have the specs so I could find someone locally?

Are these brakes, the GSXR ones, better than the Brembo ones that came stock on older monsters?

The GSXR forks are radial mount for one and the radial mount ducati brembo calipers on superbikes/s4rs "whathaveyou" have different spacing than the gsxr forks...so no.  Although you can buy aftermarket brembo calipers for them.

Nobody on here seems to be making spacers, Taftonomous has a lathe so you might ask him?

The Tokico's on the GSXR are apparently very nice.  They are radial mount and my guess is lighter than goldlines.  The 09 has even lighter monoblock Tokico calipers but I've yet to check if they differ on spacing.

Your best bet is to do your own measuring, My specs were all different than the drawings provided in this thread.  The rotor spacer is really the hardest part to get machined, you may find you need a different thickness.  Make sure to measure your own parts. 

+1, always measure your own stuff....twice....no three times.

I was wondering if forks off a 2001 Monster 900S or other Ducati with adjustable forks would bolt up easier than the GSXR forks?  Anybody know?
Are the drawing still available for the spacers?  Where?
thanks

There is a link to the drawings on my original post near the end.
Not sure about the forks from other Ducati's. I do know there are direct swaps(just using the fork legs), but i am not the expert on years and sizes.
good luck
RB

Just a quick question:

What axle did you use? Stock GSXR?

quick answer: Yes

Going to be doing this on a 95 M900. Could you share how you took your measurements? I have thought of a couple different ways to go about it, but your process would be really helpful  [thumbsup]

Measurements (http://www.agentburns.com/thingy/S2R%20GSX-R%20FORK%20SWAP.pdf)

The process isn't very difficult, and i will try to explain  as best i can. What you are looking for with this swap is the differences(measurement distances) between the two forks(stock and GSXR). These measurements will be acquired before tear-down of the stock front end, and then again with the gixxer forks 'mocked up'. I recommend taking the link i provided above, print it out and insert your measurements where the S2R dimensions are currently....and measure twice or even three times.
Secondly, the axle diameter, GSXR and later Monsters are 25mm.
Third, your triple diameter, will the gixxer forks fit the stock triple?

i would be more then happy to chat about this mod in further detail, but it has been a while since i made the write up, PM me for my digits if you need further help.

RB

where did u get 320 mm caliper bolts . anyone  give me specs of it?

I bought the bolts with the forks and caliper set. There is a large spacer that moves the caliper out to accept the 320mm rotor. I don't know the bolt dimensions, try googling it.
Hope that helps

anybody tried swapping the staunctions between a ducati and the suzi forks?
I thought this would be an easy way of keeping the brembos and the spacing may not be such an issue.

I just fitted a full front off a cbr1000rr onto my monster and it all went easily, (so far!)
only problem is the 25mm offset, although the wheelbase was still the same as original.
I even got to keep the steering head bearings afetr swapping a few bit around and making up a spacer.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk233/dakomoto/ducati/IMG_0239.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk233/dakomoto/ducati/IMG_0096a.jpg)

For anyone out there that has done this swap, did you have a problem with the GSXR axle length? I have mocked up 2005 GSXR Ohlins forks in my OEM triple clamps (05 monster 1000Sie) and the axle nut wont reach the axle. Any help would be grateful
Regards
Don

Don't know about the axle length on the 05.
Maybe they changed the axle set-up. I used older forks.

Ill try and google and see if there is a difference. Thanks for the quick response RB
Don

For those interested, there is a differece between the 03/04 and the 05/06 GSXR 1000 axle. I dont have specific sizes only that the OEM part numbers are different.
Don

I corrected my post to read 03-04 forks. Sorry for the misinformation.

Could I ask a favor RB, would you please measure the outside to outside measurement of your fork leg bottoms. Where the axel goes through.

Thanks for sharing OP, anyone have any information on older gsxr forks? I found a set with racetech springs and calipers locally, only issue is they're from an 98 750. Maybe I should just check them out in person and try and see how they would measure up? Not sure how effective that would really be.

Will do, sorry I didnt see this earlier.

Looks to be about 6.5". It's difficult to measure on the bike. But I know that my drawings should be within a few mm.

Thanks RB, I'm now trying a hayabusa axle which is longer but still to short. The c/c of the forks are the same, so all i can put it down to is to the difference between the OEM GSXR fork bottoms and the Ohlins. Thanks again, I'll let you know how i go

Here is a lesson for young players, never trust what someone tells you on Ebay.
Ask me how I know :-\

well that stinks, i hope you get things sorted out.

if this works, i will write your name on my bike in tribute [bow_down]

If this swap works? Probably the best mod I've done.

i have all the gear to do it except the spacers! that is to say, i have 04 gixxer 1000 forks with fresh ohlins internals, calipers, axle, etc. now i just need to find someone, anyone, to make the spacers!

please give me a shout if anyone knows anyone who can do this! spacerS! [beer]

Going to throw my experiences here, since this seems the penultimate GSXR fork swap thread...

This is my second iteration of the fork swap - my first was with a set of easy to fit Showas from an '06/7 GSX-R750, a temporary solution since a local junkyard was willing to let them go for around a hundred duckets (talked them out of an axle as a bonus)... Essentially, one day I threw a steering damper on my bike, and found with the damper on when leaned over it was wandering all about in the lane. Feeling the bike's front end was waaayy too soft, I took the forks off, the low end Marzocchi's, one for compression and one for rebound (least that's how I understand they're supposed to work), no adjustments, no way to rebuild, and found the compression fork completely toasted.  No hint of damping, and to top it off, metal chunks were draining from it in the oil...

- used an '06/7 GSX-R750 axle (if I'm really worried about the extra half-pound it weighs over the Ducati axle, perhaps I should think about diet and exercise to shave off a few pounds of my own, maybe even get my "big-boned" @ss under 200lbs somehow... that'd save me tens of thousands worth of trick CF parts!!!).

- used 0.5mm brass sheet two shim up the 53mm lower outer tubes to fit my 54mm lower triples

- got steel tube stock from Wicks Aircraft and Organ Supply to use as axle spacers (McMaster-Carr should have the right sizes as well, just that Wicks was for 12yrs my ever-ready down-the-street walk-in metal and composite supply shop), cut them slightly oversized with a chopsaw with a fiber cutoff wheel, squared them on a bench sander.  I put the forks on the bike, and sized the spacers to center the wheel between the fork lowers, just simply measured the distance between the fork lowers, subtracted the distance between the outside edges of the Ducati wheel bearings (under compression against the spacer between the bearings), halved the result and cut the right (bolt) side spacer to this.  Left side spacer I cut to a long enough that the axle and axle bolt wouldn't meet, yet short enough that the larger diameter portion of the axle wouldn't stick out too far from the fork lower.
[EDIT] - forgot about the offset in the wheel bearings, left side sitting deeper in the wheel than the right (knew there was something I was missing, little rusty upstairs!). If I recall I did something complicated like measuring the bearings outer to outer, then took a depth gauge to the bearings against the outermost hub surfaces (the ones the brake rotors center around), then crunched some numbers...  Easier, just measure distance between the outermost hub surfaces, subtract this from the distance between the fork lowers, divide by two, and on the right side (GSXR axle bolt side) add to the /2 number the depth to the bearing inner race from the hub surface, and cut your right side spacer to that (and again cut the other spacer to whatever it takes to disallow the bolt head and axle from meeting while keeping the axle nicely clamped in the left fork... precision's not quite as important on that side).

- did same as above to make 5mm brake caliper spacers out of 1/2"x1" 6061-T6 tube stock

- to make brake rotor spacers, took 5mm sheet 6061-T6, first cut the blank out with a 4 1/4" hole saw, then used the pilot hole in the blank to cut 2 1/2" out of the center (this was before I had a mill-lathe setup, or the space for it), then took the resulting ring and slapped it on a Monster wheel, put the brake rotor over it as a guide to drill the rotor bolt holes.  Note, using a hole saw will leave lots of scarred/marred material, stress fracture is not a concern here but corrosion is - I sprayed them down with ACF-50 prior to installation to absolutely prevent corrosion, but your favorite anti-corrosion oil will work (Corrosion-X, etc.)

- calipers, R1/R6 four piston monoblocks for some 25 odd smackers from fleabay. Well worth the money, they are infinitely better than what was on the bike.

- caliper bolts, measured the ones that came with the R1 monoblocks, added 5mm, walked over to the local Fastenall store, and grabbed a set of flange-headed cad-plated grade-8/metric-10.5 hex cap bolts.

Result - Oversprung, way harshly damped... But... I never knew this bike could go this dang fast and hold such a tight line in the corners.  Waaayyy better than it'd ever been, way better even than when I bought it (with 200miles on the clock).  The forks are sprung and, on the compression side, damped so that an 800lb gorilla can't sue for liability in a crash due to the forks bottoming out...  Fortunately, the rebound side is reasonable at speed, so with a little adjustment, no matter how rattled I was, the bike was always solid in contact with the road, and I could get thrown off of the bike and it would still hold its line - I never had to work at holding the line in the corners!

So, temporary, since I had a pair of 2008 GSX-R1000 KYB triple clickers, with their smooth-as-glass black DLC coating, sprung for my weight, etc. - only problem, they are 56mm at the lower triple. I like the idea of HS compression adjustment since the Santa Cruz Mountain region offers a wide variety of beautiful scenic twisty as hell roads that are totally fun to ride on.. as long as you have a suspension that can handle foot tall buckles and potholes to the infinite abyss...  

Not until recently did I discover you can take the outers from an earlier model GSX-R1000 KYB forks and swap the entire stanchion/cartridge/spring/cap assembly into them, keep the triple clickers and not have to bore out your lower triple...  The '07/8 forks are stiffer for more metal on the fork tubes (and I'm sure heavier as well). Alas, despite all the threads I've read of folks boring their lower triples to 56mm (think all for fitting Ohlins SBK forks), then riding totally paranoid of their lower triples cracking under the stress, I went ahead and bored my lower triples to 56mm on my newly acquired mini-mill.

couple of notes on the mini-mill, outside of the usual making sure you're centered, head angle is nill, etc..
- tighten the gibs, they're not adjusted well from the factory. and if they are, they're still not...
- low RPM and cut fast.... should be common sense if you're used to cutting soft metal, but I forgot and tried the opposite first pass, wound up with an oblong bore on my first cut.
- chamfer all of the resulting sharp edges after boring - this distributes the forces more evenly and helps prevent fatigue/stress cracks.

I've got about 1Kmi on the bored triple over the past month over the roughest roads I can find, and no sign of problems (I'm using dye penetrant inspection).  Of course, though the lower triple sees more stress, if you think about it, the forks are clamped by the upper triple and the axle to the inside of the lower triple, so really it is the structure between the inside halves of the lower triple's fork clamp and its steering stem point that are subject to all of the stress, and the rest just has to keep the forks from sliding up/down, so as long as the clamp bolts aren't overtorqued, there's nothing to worry about... I think...

Thoughts so far - even better... stiction is much lower, less than 3mm, and resulting feel is precise, easier to find the "sweet spot" on rebound, etc.. they're very well machined, and well built parts, and I really have nothing to complain about them WRT where the bike started - they perform above and beyond expectations, and more importantly well above and beyond the $235 I've got in them...

But I'm still going to complain - every bump feels harsh, they soak up the huge bumps quite well, with exactly the same harsh feeling that they give going over a manhole cover or a crack in the pavement...

So far, I'm blaming this on the same avoidance of lawsuit from the 800lb gorilla... looking at the shim stacks, compression and rebound damping should be extremely digressive, regardless of bleed valve setting.  which means the big bumps feel like little bumps, and the little bumps rattle your teeth..  IMO the SBK Showas are much better valved - not that they'll let you[me] go faster, just that they'll be a lot more comfy while you're going faster...

Anyway, I've got a dremel, a pile of shims, and a bottle of sake, going to tackle these forks and see if I can't bludgeon them into behaving as I'd like them to.

Cheers [beer]

^^^ nice write up. Thanks for contributing. I have about 20k miles on mine and love them. Still like to get them rebuilt to my weight.

Don't give too much credence to my harsh words about the harsh ride, this is the single best performance upgrade I've done to the bike (and among the cheapest!!!). I truly never worry about the front end doing anything funny or unexpected with these forks (something I can't in full honesty say about my SBK, no matter what I do with the knobs... possibly the "better ride due to better valving" is all in my head?).

Will update as I dig further into the valves and shim stacks.

 ;D [bacon]

Totally have had my head elsewhere - I started a thread on revalving mine, keeping it updated:
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=60219.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=60219.0)

I'd say I'm nowhere near finished, and I still have a ton to learn, but first pass so far so good :)

Update...
Well, the forks have finally started to leak, time for new seals. And while she is apart, I am going to respring the forks....more to follow.

Hi,
Would you happen to have the specs of the wheel spacers you made along with the disc spacers.

Thanks

Here you go. The link is in the first post.
http://www.agentburns.com/thingy/S2R%20GSX-R%20FORK%20SWAP.pdf (http://www.agentburns.com/thingy/S2R%20GSX-R%20FORK%20SWAP.pdf)

sorry for bugging, but did you also use caliper spacers? if so, what size?
i am in the process of doing this exact swap on my 04 s4r, noticed in the pictures that there seemed to be caliper spacers, just want to be sure.
Thanks!

Just replied to your pm.
Yes those spacers are so I can run larger 320mm rotors.

So i already completed the front end swap and i also find the front forks extremely stiff. has anybody found a lighter spring for the gsxr forks? i called Racetech and they said the lightest they have are a .85. anybody have any input?
Thanks!

With some work on a lathe you can use Öhlins springs(240 mm long) avsilable from (I think) 7 N/mm.

I am 160lbs and my forks are .85 sprung, I have plenty of adjustability. Do you think you have stiffer springs?
30K miles on mine, I have recently rebuilt them after a leaking seal, but I kept all the fluid and springs stock.
I recently rode a 695 with non-adjustable forks and forgot what a steaming pile those forks were.

 

I'm guessing that you're using the Duc front wheel with your own custom spacers?  You might want to check for binding by loosening the axel nut and the lower pinch bolts, then cycle the suspension.  If it feels smoother and more free, you may have an alignment issue.  Binding feels more like stiction than stiff tho.  Just a thought.