Ducati Monster Forum

UPDATE: read the first blog
http://kuixihe.com/S2R1100 (http://kuixihe.com/S2R1100)
also available
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=59525.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=59525.0)

You've read the other post and know my bike went kapoots.

So where am I now with the bike?

I bought an 1100 EVO motor. Mechanically, its a drop into the frame and the S2R swingarm mounts up nicely.
Electronically, I still havent found a solution to the oil temp (the sensor is in front of the rear cylinder). I may swap sensors out.
I have to figure out how I am suppose to mount the oil cooler since the EVO mounts to the frame. I'll probably swap valve covers and use the original temp sensor.

the TBs SHOULD fit. They look like they will mount up. I havent checked for certain yet.

I need to swap coils, I was going to go with Ca-cyclework coils, but I ended up finding an S2R800 coil for $25 on ebay.

The local guru shop (European Cycle Services) said they can flash the ECU and drop any map I want onto it (custom of course). Though I think I will still need a PCV since I need a dedicated spark map. They arent sure until they see what the yare working with. If i run a PCV, ill be able to run a dual map (fuel conserving commuting mode and weekend mode).

Can Anyone comment on the spark map? Someone said that I need to swap the timing gears, but if you can just edit the spark map wouldnt that be easier?

Other then that, here are some teaser pics.

Mock Fit on saturday.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/2012-08-19-039.jpg?m=1345356605)

Clear on Bare
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030900.JPG?m=1345679669)

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030918.JPG?m=1345679701)

Next up is the Tank. I dont like the way raw tank and raw frame looks. I might do something different with the tank. There is a dent on it and I dont know how I can pull it out without disturbing the finish. I dont mind the repair look. My frame has tons of marks on it from going down. I think it adds character and history to my bike.

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030872.JPG?m=1345680043)

Fuel and spark... microsquirt with a wide-band.

Sorry about your bike He Man.
This is big time. Be really watching this one.[popcorn]

Why not just get the Evo ecu and remap to remove the immobilizer so you can run custom guages?
as far as oil cooler build tabs on the frame and run something like the NCR or SC Project cooler.

im flashing the stock marelli ECU to a new map, but im not ure u can edit the spark map.

Let us know how the paint holds up.  I poke around on MTBR's frame builders forum (bicycle frame building that is) and the subject of clear over bare comes up about 5 times a year.  People always want the look of Ti or stainless without the expense.  The builders always say the same thing.....over time it will rust under the clear.  Be curious to see how it holds up.  Keep us posted.

Discussion of clear on bare -  http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/clear-coat-only-steel-705231.html (http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/clear-coat-only-steel-705231.html)

A few of the builders are starting to experiment with clear ceramic coating.

http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/ceramic-coating-776002.html (http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/ceramic-coating-776002.html)

http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/ceramic-coated-frames-really-pics-789822.html (http://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/ceramic-coated-frames-really-pics-789822.html)

Need some help.

the kickstand bolt for the S2R1k and M1100 are different. Does anyone know what threaded bolt will fit the 1100EVO motor?

also heres earlier this morning. shes a rolling chassis now.

I wondered teh same thing mikeb. There is some rust on the frame as is, and i know rust breeds rust, but u need water to cause the reaction to start....so i took a torch and hit the frame right before i painted it. I was hoping to get all the water out of the pores. You could see the metal change colors as oil and water was evaporating off the frame itself. Ill snap pics of the problem areas (where i left it to rust a bit) and update in a few months to see where it stands.

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030930.JPG?m=1345755234)

if you are talking the actual pivot bolt

821.1.103.1A  is the 1K
821.1.103.2A is the 1100

ROTATION PIN 748-998B/02

so old SBK

While the garage looks a mess, I have some serious envy for you. Tear down and rebuild that's some serious cool stuff. Hope to someday be able to do similar.

im talking about the bolt that holds it onto the engine case. wouldnt call that a pivot bolt.

I cross referenced usin ducati omaha oem parts website

771.1.048.1A on the 1100 EVO, but i just want to buy one locally. I just need the thread and pitch.

edit nvm! if u try to order it on omaha, they tell u the size. for $1.99 i might just go to the local dealership and pick it up there tomorrow
.

He-man I have to give you credit for taking on a seriously complex project - all the more reason to be surprised by the frame prep. That's a lot of work to get down to a bare frame, to not prep by glass beading first - or something. I understand the desire for the bare metal look, I frequently take the scotch-brite pad to my Termi pipes with some WD-40. But this seems like a lot of work to risk on clear sticking to bare metal.

Anyhow - great project and looking forward to following along - Wish mine had a metal tank!

i really dont think there are going to be any cohesion issues. the clearcoat is tough as nails (ive used it before). Time will tell. I just love the raw undisturbed look. although it isnt fancy rolled steel (its just welded) its a really great finish. Ive got more scars on teh frame than most people from the hits and crashes, and all of that stuff shows under the clear which is cool.

What color frame plugs should I get? I still dont know what color the tank will be.

it was not that messy when i started. I just started having no place to put things and i keep working with my bum on the floor!

local dealer wants 50% more than asking price. Oh right were in NYC. :-X

in europe the $ to euro on prices is 1 to 1
so a 10 dollar part is automatically a 10 euro part... which is about $12.53
translate that into parts like termis or other high value and you can see why i love ordering from the states.

this. is. awesome.  [thumbsup]

in  NYC the $ to NYC$ on prices is 1.5 to 1.
so a $1.99 part is automatically 2.99 after rounding.
translate that into parts like termis and other high value and you can see why i make the beast with two backsing hate this place.  [wine]

Theres a sensor sticking out the rear cylinder, anyone can confirm what that is?

it ust says temp sensor (oil temp?)

what about 55240131A on the S2R1000? (the sensor on the foward cylinder intake valve cover.

That is the oil temperature sensor, and, in that location will read much higher than the sensor in your old engine.  Since you are using your old computer my suggestion would be to use your old cover and sensor, wiring modified as needed.

ill leave the wire there and zip tie it and forget about it.

if i use my valve cover from teh 1000 i can keep the oil cooler mount and get the same temp reading as before. :)

thanks howie!

they use the same valve covers?

Forgot, the EVO engine uses a completely different valve cover.  Forget what I said. 

I think this all goes to wiring harness and ecu from an evo would be so much easier.

There has to be a way to compensate for error from the oil temperature sensor, at least close enough to work.  I would try to alter the resistance from the sensor at normal running temperature on your to a value the same as it would be on your old 1000 as a starting point.

I was going to swap my 1000 valve cover over. it should fit. the EVO1100 valve cover just doenst have the port for the oil temp sensor.


EVO wiring harness and ECU would cost more than tuning the bike and would cause a ton of headaches since the connections are in totally different locations. Plus if they dont label the wiring harness for me, ill be there for quite a while figuring out which goes where!

Thinking about this. its an oil temp sensor

so dorsnt matter where as long as it isn't right after cooler

so just use the evo one if the valve covers don't work

valve covers work. not a big deal.


But i am having an issue with the timing sensor. The PO of the motor cut the wire to it. so i need a new one.

i confirmed that this one below works. however, i dont know what the other end of the plug looks like. if anyone with a 696/1100 can take a look and snap a pic of their plug for me that would be very nice! I have a 3 prong connector.

for the record the S2R1000 does not fit. its too long.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Ducati-Hypermotard-EVO-1100-Engine-Timing-Crank-Shaft-Sensor-/220915522391?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336f975b57&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-Ducati-Hypermotard-EVO-1100-Engine-Timing-Crank-Shaft-Sensor-/220915522391?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336f975b57&vxp=mtr)

Just a few things i need to do....

1) Get that new kickstand bolt
2) change the 4 rubber dampers on my rearsets. while im at it, i think im going to powder coat them again.
3) find a good mount point for the rear and front coils
4) buy a new timing sensor
5) find a way to get the airbox in there.
6) find a new mounting location for the horn ( i cut the tab off for the old horn)
7) Install rear brake
8) bleed everything..im actually not sure if the cluthc rod is long enough for my slave. I might need a new slave or some spacers.
9) install minor things like damper, exhaust and head light.
10) bring it to the shop to get her tuned!

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030968.JPG?m=1345951205)

ah why the hell not, a little preview from the rear.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030975.JPG?m=1345951772)

The evo has hotter cams (you won't have to buy DP cams), higher compression and more capacity (you won't have to buy hi comp, big bore pistons or rebore/replate your cylinders) and better ports (no need for porting really). So one way of looking at it is you got a bargain. Imagine what all those mods would cost on your DS motor?

Use the DS airbox with open lid, fancy filter and fueling mods and you might get 100 hp. [evil]

are we talking about RWHP or crank hp?

100hp isnt much of a difference from the 95hp fo the DS1000 if its crank. I was getting 83rwhp on my DS1000 motor. Im hoping i can break 87hp with the 1100 EVO.

I'm going to keep the airbox and take off the top of the lid, then slot the sides so i can mount an aluminum plate ontop with some sound deafening foam. Hopefully it will be like an open airbox, but the plate and foam will help deaden the sound (like that filter) and give me space to mount stuff.

I was talking rwhp. I know Ducati have been quoting crank hp like other manufacturers. The 83 hp was SAE hp and with pods I bet.

On paper, the evo motor has been tuned to increase peak hp, but looks to be particularly well strangled in the US. The motor, on paper looks to have all the ingredients involed in getting the newer big valve desmodues towards 100 hp at the wheel. The fueling and intake appear to be a significant bottleneck.

Its well documented that they run lean as hell, but it seems that the airbox design has been affected by packaging constraints. I would let the airbox be open with a K&N or similar  filter and get a Shorai battery to solve the ignition packaging.

Maybe a PCV and reflash to start with, or ever considered an Ignijet system? I know you are wanting to keep costs within sight. Brad might know if the DS spark map will suffice for the evo with its compression/capacity increase if you used premium fuel to at least get it running to test and tune.
How confident is your local dyno guy of being able to remap for the evo motor with the devices available? There is the premium Ungeheuer option, but maybe a PCV/reflash with premium fuel could get the ball rolling. What mapping did your bike previously have?

I havent touched an evo motor, only been amazed how crammed it is under the tank.
I would email Brad Black and Speeddog, etc.

Travman's 1123 DS makes 95 rwhp and 82 ft/lbs with stock cams. Iim pretty sure hes running an open airbox with mapped injection. His bike has a PCIII, but the general ignition timing numbers could be useful since his bike has similar displacement and high compression.
I don't know if he's using the stock ignition map, a custom map or just knocked off peak advance. His bike has stock DS cams, it's a grunter.
I would contact him regarding mapping.

does anyone think the exhaust fight might be able to squeeze in that spot on the trellis frame? i think it ight be too tight but it could just be enough to squeeze in there.

Not sure the evo stock would work
try to see if an s2r would work if u got it

mine works. its mounted up if u look at the pic above. the only difference is that i need to a steel tab to hook the udder up to engine to reduce the stress on the other mounts since they are so far away.

i just like the routing of the EVO exhaust.

Hell try it

more pics of this please?   [thumbsup]

GO HEMAN GO.....there are people watching with intense interest!!!

Im sure there are people who just want oodles of pictures. But i holding out on u guys on purpose. Itll be better when i do a full write up.

anyway... theres only 6 items left to do.

1) relocate teh starter relay and make a longer starter cable to reach.
2) Splice the oil temp sensor wire.
3) Change the valve cover and install the oil cooler
4) install the 848EVO pickup sensor once it arrives
5) Install acoustic foam on airbox cover.
6) reconnect the alternator wire to the rectifyer.
7) rebuild the HID wiring harness
8) Install these FIAM dual tone horns


Somethings that will need to be done soon
1) replace teh left tach lens since i cracked it somehow.
2) install an auxillary fog light
3) make a proper airbox.
4) get right angle boots for the spark plug wires.


This is teh cut airbox. there slots in it because i used to run the wires under the cover for the ballast. I didnt have a hot knife and my buzz saw blew up, so i had to use a metal cutting disc to do this, hence the dirty cuts. Its only there to get the tune, there is defintely more open urface area than just a cut top, though it doesnt matter since the whole filter is expoed already. There will be acoustic foam on the underside of the metal plate (shown later). Im going to weld up an aluminum bracket later since i hate how ghetto this looks, or maybe even do a fiberglass mold. this thing weighs a ton.

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030979.JPG?m=1346219067)

also had to make a rear plate, because the old one was ugly.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030951.JPG?m=1346218791)

Yes the fasteners are rusty and whatever. i dont care. i just want to ride. :'(
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030963.JPG?m=1346218896)

its almost done. It took me 3 hours to route those wires so nothing is going to be ziptied to the frame. and most of the wires are hidden.  You can see the ballast sitting on top of its new home. I driled 2 holes and im jsut going to ziptie the ballast.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030985.JPG?m=1346218999)

oh and i have some tapered bearings on that sucker. the install was a pregnant dog for the lower bearing since i didnt have a proper install tool.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1030927.JPG?m=1346219494)

Looking forward to seeing how she goes with a tune. I bet that airbox works better than the pods you were running. That plate on top looks like it should help dampen the noise.  The plate looks high enough off the filter to let plenty of air in. It actually looks kinda high performance with the plate!

I have to say I'm really impressed by how fast you're getting this project together  [thumbsup]

get that write up up, this is awesome.

I have the HTM1100S lightweight drilled starter gear for sale if you are interested

thanks, its all these small ticket items im stuck on right now. mainly waiting for this damn pickup sensor. i figure i have less than 5 hours of work and a combined total of 50 hours of work to do this.

raux, is it the pair or just the one off the crank?

What happened to the logo?  Did you heat/melt it?  It looks awesome.....like molten metal fell on your tank and formed DUCATI in a apocalyptic, dark art kind of way.  Really cool picture!

I am sorry if I missed this, but the stock DS 1000 MM ecu can run the EVO motor which is Siemens ECU?  I want to do this soooo bad, and am looking for 2009-2010 M1100 engine because it has a dry clutch.  Other than compression (10.7 to 11.3), better cams and a wet clutch....how is the M1100 EVO any better?  Does anyone know if any significant improvements were made in head design, overall engine strength/reliability, internal weight savings (lighter gears, transmission) etc?  Are the cams and compression making the extra 5hp at the crank?

the large one on the crank

THat was the paint stripper that stripped he black paint underneath the decal that i removed last. the EVO motor is just a motor. It doenst matter what ECU controls it, so as long as you have control over the TBs and spark you are good to go.

there are suppose to be a lot of differences between the 1100 and 1100 EVO on the monster.

including larger valves, hotter cam, higher compression, light weight vacuum process casting for the case halves, improved routing for oil and some other small things. ive seen really high RWHP compared to the regular 1100.

Raux, i need the one that feeds the main belt pully, not the one on the crank. :P

yeah this is the one that sits with the flywheel

The fly wheel is on the crankshaft, the timing gear comes in a pair. one on the crank shaft, which conencts to the clutch and the other connects to the main pulley drive.

I am stepping into deeper water with the electronics, so I am practicing my doggy paddle.  I thought you could get in trouble if ECU wasn't matched to the throttle bodies/injectors it was intended for, but I guess it is just sending little electrical pulses to those components.  If someone knows what they are doing with reflash and tuning they can make almost any ECU send the right quantity and intensity of little electrical pulses to anything.  The bigger issue, as in your case, is having an ECU that matches your existing wiring/mounting locations.



So would you mind sharing you research (this question is open to anyone by the way)?  It would be interesting to know the actual weight savings....it can't be more than a pound or two on the cases right?  How much more RWHP are we talking about?

I guess my dilemma is this:  I have an '01 M900, I could build that out with a $7500 budget and have a great motor, but would be lucky to get 100 rwhp, and reliability would be a concern.

2nd option:  Find a good '09/'10 M1100 donor b/c I want a dry clutch, I am buying a basically Ducati's 1080cc big bore kit.  There are not many significant changes between the S2R1000 and M1100 they are just big bore S2R1000s.  I would still be spending $5k to port/flow heads, install big valves, lighten/balance internals, etc to crack the magic 100rwhp barrier.

3rd option:  Find an 1100EVO donor, where Ducati had done the headwork, valves and internals for me, and spend much less getting it to 100rwhp.

I am glad you are taking this on HeMan.  Somebody has to pave the way, and there doesn't seem to be much info out there.

Fuel injection is at least as simple as carburetors if you are computer savvy enough to type html code in you posts.  For in-depth coverage, I highly recommend Bowling and Grippo at http://www.megasquirt.info/ (http://www.megasquirt.info/)

As I understand He Man's project, he is using the S2R1K throttle bodies, injectors and the other sensors are the same (just in different locations).  The only intrinsic problem is the dual spark setup for his ECU.  I do not believe this will be a problem as Ducati used the same ECU for all the bikes... if it were me I would pick the spark map from maybe an ST2 for a baseline and meld it with a "whole hog" 2v fuel map to get it on the dyno.  (okay, if I was really doing it I would go microsquirt with a 2-1 exhaust and a wideband, but I am less risk-adverse than is probably healthy)



+1

I am mostly excited to hear the SxR swing arm fits...

ive had it up to HERE (points as high as he can) with the small little bullshit things i need to do.

1) waiting on the pickup sensor that will never come.
2) waiting on a tool to get the boot of this last spark plug wire in.
3) cant find my flux and cant find my soldering iron to make the longer starter cable wire.
4) I havent got a clue how to get the oil temp sensor to work. ive zipe tied the probe to the inside frame and the wire on the harness to the frame as well and im going to buy a oil temp reader that fits in the fill port. The probe side is 2 wire and the pickup side is 1 wire.
5) i still cant find my flux so i cant solder on the generator wire.

AHHHHH. Those are the only things holding me back from putting the tank and seat on. I am rebuiding the HID wire harness to make it simpler and trying to include a dual FIAM horn onto it.

I cut off ALL the mounting tabs for the wires so everything is hidden as best as i could. the starter motor and both coils now live around the battery tray.

the dual spark isnt a problem. the plugs dont spark seperately, they spark just once. brad black says that there are two notches on the timing gear that sits on the main pully. That menas you read twice as many signals if u are on the merelli ECU. The solution is to swap to the single gear on the HM1100 or the stock S2R 1000.

Ducati did not use the same ECU for all bikes. the 2010 + bikes run an entirely different ECU.

I am hauling the bike to the shop, not riding it, so i cant control what map is on there. thats what im paying the shop to do.

the 01 900 is a weak joke compared to the DS1000. just like the DS1000 is outdated when compared to the EVO1100.

The m1100 to my knowledge is just a bigger bore. its the exact same specs otherwise.

the EVO1100 is also a wetclutch too. thats something else to look at.

I'm confused.
I thought the Evo was a single spark, the M1100 pre-evo a dual spark.

Yes you are correct, but it doesnt matter. Its like  Y splitter. Signal goes in, both plugs fire at once. I swapped and used S2R800 coils. so instead of dual output its single output.

Sneak preview. Hoping to get my blog up about it by tomorrow.

(http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/3319/p1040031j.jpg)

Heres the blog. Its A LOT Of pictures and i dont have the time to re do the code for the forum. anyway, enjoy guys!

http://kuixihe.com/S2R1100 (http://kuixihe.com/S2R1100)

You and your bike have been through a lot. Can't wait to hear about your impressions when you get it back out on the road.   [thumbsup]

I cant wait either. the dyno tune is this friday.

i turned her over without the plugs (and no oil) and the battery sounds like its having a hard time cranking her.

As suspected, the double pickup on the timing gear is an issue. Normally the starter cycles for a predetermined set of cycles, i think its 8, since the bike will stop cycling after 4 attempts now. Reason being, it is now reading twice the cycle rate, so either the gear needs to be swapped out, or its something that can be set inside the ECU.

i think swapping the gear would be easiest. if i swap gears then i will need to change the whole shabang myself since i need time for the bonding agent to cure, unless i can get a fast set one. anyone know one that will cure quickly?

Friday [popcorn].

 [thumbsup]

subscribed

alright i still need to do two things and i need some help with finding a socket size.

the oil screen on the S2R1000 contains the oil temp sensor for the instrument  gauge. i need to swap that but i dont have the socket for it and theres mixed reports of it being 21 and 22mm. anyone know the exact size?


the other thing i need to do is swap the timing gear. ive decided theres no way the ECU would know where the timing is with 2 sensor ports unless it had data from another sensor, so its best to just swap gears.

Well it looks like friday is going to be a bust. i need a new timing gear. See the last pic for details. I need to find a replacement ASAP. If ECS has one, ill have them ship it to me so i can install it. The issue is if they install it, well have to wait for the damn gasket to cure before it can be put on the dyno.

Busted out the 14mm socket to remove the oil screen plug
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/78.JPG?m=1346711495)

Swapped out the plug and now i have oil temp readings for my gauges.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/79.JPG?m=1346711541)

dejavue......didnt i already do this before?
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/80.JPG?m=1346711599)

oh make the beast with two backs PTSD FLASHABCK!
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Trips/Move-to-Colorado/P1020649.JPG?m=1338152174)

The M1100 EVO motor
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/81.JPG?m=1346711640)

Compared to the S2R1000.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Trips/Move-to-Colorado/P1020650.JPG?m=1338152202)

and a comparision of the flywheel, mangeto and sprag gearset up (okay the other two arent shown). Notice there is no longer a mark for lining up the left side motor with the belts.

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/83.JPG?m=1346711725)

Difference in height as well.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/84.JPG?m=1346712055)

and of course the whole reason i went in there to begin with. They dont fit. They theres a difference in the number of teeth between the gaps (not to mention the gap size it self is completely different) and im pretty sure the key doenst fit either.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/82.JPG?m=1346711682)

Another note id like to make is that the vaccum cast engine side case is very noticeably lighter than the S2R by close to a lb using my highly accurate left hand scale.

im sure that the whole engine is easily several lbs lighter as a result.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-11-Ducati-Multistrada-1200S-1200-Lay-Shaft-timing-Gears-Engine-Gear-/320836067506?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab351e0b2&vxp=mtr#ht_1442wt_1271 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-11-Ducati-Multistrada-1200S-1200-Lay-Shaft-timing-Gears-Engine-Gear-/320836067506?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab351e0b2&vxp=mtr#ht_1442wt_1271) this might work.

im going to go remove that gear and verify the number of teeth, and the woodruff key etc.

(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2010-11-Ducati-Multistrada-1200S-1200-Lay-Shaft-timing-Gears-Engine-Gear-/00/s/MTA2NFgxNjAw/$(KGrHqR,!joE8MjRUVnMBPIDnoT!U!~~60_12.JPG)

Glad there is some parts interchangability there to get you out of trouble.

well today is a sad day. I have to call in tomorrow to see if ECS has the gear i need, which i doubt it. Which means tomorrow will be a call to cancel the appointment.


the 1098 gear will not work. it has to be the 1100 motor between 2008-2010 when the Merelli ECU was used and the pickup is at the top.

the S2R Gear will obviously not work because the pick up location is different. However. how off is it really?

Shown below. when the woodruff key is lined up the dots line up, but the teeth are off by 4.
with the 1098 gear, the wooddruff key slot points to the pickup location, obviously the wrong spot. it has to be one of the 2 positions for the m1100 gear.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/87.JPG?m=1346727806)


the bottle cap indicates where the indentation for the S2R gear is.
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/My-First-Rebuild/86.JPG?m=1346727760)

so basicly im screwed unless i pay $500 for a stupid gear, which means i should of spent that money on rebuilding my heads instead.


the hyperpart no is 17120751B
the 848 part no is 171Z0031A

alright, i just got word from another member on ducati.ms (Fastfrank) that an 848 timign gear WILL work.

if my reasoning is right the notch is located in the middle  of the two notches because the Siemens will be able to read in between the two.

however the hyper and the 848 share distinctly different part No which worries me. anyone care to comment?

or rather does anyone know if the bike is suppose to fire when the timing sensor is over the notch?

BINGO. the 2008 gear from an 848 is a match. one on ebay. $75 from florida.

done and done. i can delay the tuning till saturday, or if it comes soon enough (like thursday afternoon) i can install it and get the tune on friday!

Great to hear He Man.
Saturday! [popcorn]

called up ECS, they do not have the gear in stock, but its on ebay and i contacted ducati depot (metroduc for those who gets his emails) but im waiting to hear from them, they ship at the end of the buisness, but they can ship today. Im not sure if priority mail will get here (florida to new york) by thursday.

i contacted them about express shipping and the cost (there is an envelop for $20, otherwise $40). no way im paying $40 shipping, i can wait. I do think priority will make it here on thursday though.

ECS cannot tune on sat, so its this friday or next.

he said $20 for express shipping is good to go. will have the gear tomorrow morning. and installed by that night.

actually, with that gear, the bike SHOULD be able to start on its own. I just need to put in some 93 octane for the high compression.


what about oil guys? i cant run car oil anymore, and ive heard that for break in, dyno oil is the best as to allow a good mating surface.

wait, am i missing something? why are you replacing that gear? cause of the notches? those are there to lock the engine in place when you do the service(timing belt and valve check) theres a hole in the case that you thread a special tool though

because im running a different ECU. those notches are the pickup locations for the sensor. the siemens ECU is programmed to read two. the Merelli ECU reads 1.

As DS1000 motors wear & EVO1100 motors become more available, the write-up for this adaptation will become very helpful....

Great work so far, & I can't wait to hear the 'final' write-up!

True. I'm afraid the EVO 1100 engines will be harder to find though.  A couple of years ago if you were looking for a used DS1000 to stick in your Monster's frame you source one from a Monster, Super Sport 1000, or any of the Sport Classics.  To find an EVO 1100 engine it will have to come out of a salvaged Monster and I don't think Ducati sells as many 1100 Monsters now compared to say 2006-2008 when the S2R1000's seemed to be very popular.

True...   :-\

So how is the Betty project. Is it done?  Did I miss anything?

not if thst motor becomes the standsrd in all 1100 bikes

[threadjack]

Put 1100 miles on Betty in 5 days last month.  Rides & corners excellent. [Dolph]

[/threadjack]

Hypermotard has SBK width cases at the pivot compared to the wider Monster / SS / SC

There won't be any other air-cooled bikes by next year. The hyper will be water-cooled for 2013. Besides, as 1KDS says, the Hyper 1100 does not easily fit in a Monster frame.

ahh son of a gun,  i paid $30 to have the gear shipped to me today, guarenteed by 12pm. i live 3 blocks from the post office. i always get priority mail at 8am. i get a ticket noted for 11:49am....seriously!!! if i paid $6 bucks chances would of been it came tomorrow at 9am. atleast its at the post office. i wanted to install it tonight, esepcially after watching the giants loose. :( need ap ick me up!

use a soft penny she said!
Itll just bend and save the gear she said!


but she never said it was going to feed right through!


i did this on the S2R1000, it did not feed through. or even mark the penny up.


i was not paying attention at how it was placed, and it punched right through it.

you are suppose to make the gears PINCH the penny not PUNCH. so i put it in the wrong way.

oh well. it was a PITA to have to undo that flywheel nut. i red loctited it and torqued it up to 180ft./lbs. it was  BEAST to remove.

then the sprag gear was stuck. so i had to summon the power of thor to get the best grip i could and turn the wheel by hand like a steering wheel. but i backed it out and got evverything  buttoned up. she turns over just dandy.

waitiing for the gasket to cure a bit then do 2nd tightening down of the bolts then filling her up with some oil and taking her out!

(http://kuixihe.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My%20Motorcycle/Bent-Valve/P1040117.JPG?m=1346948445)

Awesome project; thanks for posting this up for all to see. [thumbsup]

Hurry up, gasket sealer! [Dolph]

how long does a dyno tune take to finish anyway?

good news and bad news.

the good news.

The bike idles! Rough idle, but she sounds really nice and revs sort of okay. the ignition timing is too advance for the single spark.

the bad news.

my van died. it wont hold an idle and it dies under load. Suspecting either a clogged fuel filter or a dying fuel pump.
so until i get the van completely sorted out. the bike isnt going to get its tune anytime soon. :(