Ducati Monster Forum

Forget about the expensive POR15 or Cream kits that run about $50.  I learned this while dealing with old hondas that had rusty tanks. One of the cheapest and best things to clean anything with rust on it is this:

Go to K-MART and buy two bottles of "The works" toilet bowl cleaner. $1.50 a bottle so thats a whopping $3.

Take your tank off your bike. Drain out your gas, pour both bottles of the toilet bowl cleaner in your tank. Every 5 minutes pick up your tank and slosh it around. After 30 minutes, pour that stuff out. Wash the inside out with dish soap and water. Rinse out multiple times with hot water.  Get a blow dryer and dry out your tank good, then fog it with WD-40 to keep it from flash rusting. Fill to the top with gas.

I have seen tanks from the 70's so rusty on the inside all you see is orange when you look in. After 30 minutes of the works cleaner it looks like bare metal brand new inside. This stuff also works for anything rusty, pour it in a pan and put your rusty part in.

What keeps the rust from forming again?

if its a part or something else you just cleaned, i guess coating it with some oil. if its your gas tank, basically keeping it full of gas keeps it from rusting again.  I always just kept my gas tank full, or once i ran out of gas i just filled it back up. I didnt let it sit for too long on empty. The reason gas tanks get rusty inside is from sitting for along time with no gas in it, so as long as you keep gas in it your okay.

Great tip.   [thumbsup]   As with any caustic cleaner, be sure to rinse VERY thoroughly.  It will continue to dissolve (slowly) any metal it is in contact with.

It's probably got phosphoric acid in it which is # 1 for rust. It also leaves a coating (iron phosphate) after you rinse it off that'll prevent further rust.

what if you've got an old Honda tank that someone used the JBweld type stuff to keep from leaking? 

Can i use this same process to clean/dry the tank if I'm going to cut and weld in a new section to fix the leak?

Plan on pinholes.

Make sure to use a tank liner when done.

Even factories phosphate of apply some type of coating to the inside.

Thanks.  Worked great.  I decided to get my 78 Yamaha running again.  It had been sitting in the backyard for 15 years.  It had rust in the 80's and  I tried a liner in it which came loose from the rust.  The cap was rusted on.  I had to take the petcock off and pour thru that opening.  In about 15 min, I got the cap off.  Most of the rust was gone.  Step one in getting it up and running.

Wanted to ad that water and some heavy molasses mixed in will kill rust fairly quickly, but will not keep it from forming again. I've used this trick on a few parts before painting them again.

The works is a good product, and I've successfully used evapo rust and Krud Kutter for Rust as well.

7-year thread bump!

Is The Works still effective? Have they changed their formula since this thread was started? I'm over four hours into the soaking and shaking process, and while there has been some progress (about 20% of rust is gone I would say) at his rate this could take days. And the heavy deposits have barely budged. Any advice?

I don't think any of us could know if they changed anything.

I think it's going to take time.

Evapo-Rust® is a non-toxic rust remover dip for restoring rusty treasures.https://evapo-rust.com/ (https://evapo-rust.com/)

...and it works. Just don't let it dry on the surface. You need to keep the entire surface wet the whole time.

The plan for me is to Caswell the tank this weekend to prevent the corrosion from returning.
First time Caswelling.
I removed most of the big stuff with a copper scouring pad. The tank is pitted. But filled with water and no leaks!
The vent line WAS plugged up with rust but I was able to open by inserting a wire.
I have a bunch of ugly pics a plan on posting along with finish pics.
I just received 5 gal of Evapor Rust. I going to fill the tank and let is sit 24hrs.
I am also ordering a new fuel pump and sensor, and be over cautious.
Note: you best have some thin long forearms and dexterity to get the fuel pump out. I dred the thought of reinstalling this thing.
The F-bombs will be flying!

Use a little oil, grease, vaseline, rubber lube, wiener slider on the pump rubber.

Slides right in. ;)

 ;D
Thanks 'painter!
I gave this a little thought. I try to mentally reverse engineer everything I pull apar.t
But I'm going go with a little two-smoke oil over the KY.

Make sure you reduce the Caswell the maximum they allow. Left full strength it won't flow well enough to coat the entire tank.

The product is intended to seal perforated tanks, which is why it's as thick as it is.

Thanks again 'painter!
I wasn't planning on thinning the product,  that would have sucked....
But that makes sense. These Monster tanks ain't round.
I'm filling it up with Evaporust today and letting it soak for 24Hrs.
I got as much of the scale off as I could and there is some pitting.
I have an ultrasonic thickness gauge that I can measure wall thickness everywhere but a don't think a pit gauge will fit in the tank.
Hopefully I get a bunch of uniform measurements.
But like i said, the tank ain't leaking now and with a little luck the Caswell will give me a worry situation. Fingers crossed

" no more than 1 fl oz in the motorcycle kit"

Again, their recs are to assure the product remaining viscous enough to seal perforations.

Additional reducer will slow the set-up time, but doesn't change the full cure time.

I always oriented the tank, after draining, so any excess product flowed to an area I didn't mind a build up. Best place to drain excess is out the sender hole. Be careful of any large volume of product left over. It can get hot.

One oz should work. Add 1/2 oz and use the paint stick test...stick the stirrer into the reduced product and lift it straight out. If it doesn't flow freely off the stick, it won't flow freely in the tank. You can add more...you can't take it out.

Good luck!

Posting some pics for Trackdog. He'll come by and add the play by play.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/7812/46594044765_151bb1d753_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dZmEcp)

nomanclature 2004 S4R fuel tank (https://flic.kr/p/2dZmEcp) by nhistrackdog2007 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15821552@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/7866/47456795682_7ca15b7b82_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2fiAtZd)before (https://flic.kr/p/2fiAtZd) by nhistrackdog2007 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15821552@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/7837/46594109665_30226445dc_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dZmZun)after (https://flic.kr/p/2dZmZun) by nhistrackdog2007 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15821552@N04/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/7868/46620032145_3b69bee11e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e2DRkF) IMG_4788[1] (https://flic.kr/p/2e2DRkF) by nhistrackdog2007 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15821552@N04/), on Flickr

So, as you can see by the pics Evapo-Rust works.
The first pic is for all who need to know where each "hose" needs to be connected.
Also you will see a measurement. I went around a good portion of the tank with an ultrasonic thickness gauge to get wall thickness, looking for any significant loss that may cause concern. Results were as expected. No significant wall loss from corrosion, just pitting.
I decided to Caswell for insurance and I did not want the corrosion to return.