Ducati Monster Forum

Getting ready to do an Keihin FCR 41 install on my M900. I'm excited. I want to know if there's anything I should consider or beware of in the process.

I plan to use pod filters, I have a pair of UNI Foam filters to fit on the carbs directly.

I'm going to remove the airbox completely, and make a battery tray bracket, as done on the DucatiSuite site. Attached to the airbox/battery box are the ignition modules & coils, the battery, main fuse, and hanging below is the starter solenoid. I can't think of anything else.

The Ducati Suite Example:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7janvxmioI/AAAAAAAAFak/Q0XOnLPNbH4/s800/jetkitprelimbig.jpg)

In making my new battery box, I know I need to affix the starter solenoid beneath the box in some way. Likewise, the coils and ignition modules must be mounted somewhere. My favorite setup so far is eonan's from m900.blogspot.com, shown here:

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7janEF5wOI/AAAAAAAAFaY/R0AZrJEgu9M/s800/coils.jpg)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7jVy9Jf5QI/AAAAAAAAFaQ/xwF1AFKQXx4/s800/pods.jpg)

I know its also possible to just cut up the airbox, like this:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7jU5V0K7oI/AAAAAAAAFZw/ZMAK7sYacpE/s800/DSC00162-1-1.jpg)

I've also seen these:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7jVygpm1aI/AAAAAAAAFaM/XcfuFelo-TU/s800/pods1ts2.jpg)
(with Mikunis)

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7jVyVasDmI/AAAAAAAAFaA/KenGW0k76ys/s800/DSC00344.JPG)

I'm not sure what this guy did for his battery or coils, but I ran across this searching, too:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7jaoPHSTtI/AAAAAAAAFao/casrEuFBsMg/s800/DSC03795.jpg)

Last question, is it possible to still use my ER Racing Quick-Turn Throttle? This bad boy was spendy, and its quite nice (3 different cams, aluminum tube, etc). Its also a push-pull (2-cable) system. Not sure if its possible to have the ends work with the Keihin's and if not, where could I get some cables made that have 90-degree bends at the ends (it looks like the Keihin setup uses a 90-degree bend, and the ER Racing Throttle definitely uses them to enter the throttle grip housing.)

Thanks guys!

Hi am

It's Easter Sunday here but I bet it feels like Christmas to you! ;D


Will the ends of the cables from the quick action throttle just loop up and over, and fit top brackets of the FCRs?

First of all A M...thanks for the triple clamp [thumbsup] Here's how that turned out...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4008/4490855477_6aacf39e17.jpg)

as far as the FCRs are concerned...you can make the stock air box work if you have a hack saw, some elbow grease, and a dremel. This is what i did and i will be the first to say this is a function over style type procedure. I looked at what was done on ducatisuite.com with the sheet metal and that looks way better, so my suggestion is to go that route if you have the time and are willing to figure that out. I am by nature impatient, which is a bad trait i know but i thought about it and the stock box and mount seemed to work fine after the install...i have 300 miles on it since the mod and everything is working as advertised. Oh, and in the previous thread i had said i would not be so hard on the poor thing and get a more reasonable gas mileage reading and i got 42.5MPG on the last tank, that is about 7 mpg better than the mikunis, and i must mention there was a 4 mile straight away in there that was done at no less than 130 so prolly can do even better, i'm guessing close to 50mpg on a granny ride[clap]
Here is what that mod looks like on my bike...

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2717/4491495812_05220a03d0.jpg)

Now there is one thing i am still wanting to change and if you look on the upper side of the box there is a peace left of the air box that goes at a 90 degree angle towards the Pod filters, i ran out of dremel bits and it was getting late so i am planning on coming  back in later and sawing that off since it is a useless chunk of plastic...so disregard that.

Now the cables i am not to sure about but this is what the connection looks like up close....

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4491496342_ee28c5d2e1_b.jpg)

i used the throttle assembly that chris supplies with the kit...and if you do go this route be very careful when you clamp the throttle housing together on the handlebars because this is soft aluminum  and it can be kinda tricky getting it positioned...i nearly stripped it out but i discovered it before it was irreplacable damage. I would speculate that to use your push pull throttle you have it would be dependant on the cable length and how much play you have in the pull for it to work.

All in all this is a very straight forward install just take your time and it will be all grins afer that. If you got any other questions i will do my best to help

here is the bike in question too... [moto]
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4030/4490724789_091709e924_b.jpg)

Very cool. That does help. I may not be able to use the ER Racing throttle housing, but I may be able to put the throttle tube/cam inside the supplied housing.

I´d go w a new bracket, a butchered original is very weak & flimsy.
I made a new in alu, very simple. Used original bracket f coils & ign boxes as DucatiSuite.


Quite easy to fit the solenoid bracket on the underside of the new bracket.
Sorry, I have no pics.

Keihin throttle housing & cables works very well, why not sell the ER as is?

That's probably the best plan for the ER Racing Throttle.

I'm going to make a new bracket out of carbon fiber angle and sheets of carbon fiber, so it all goes together (since I've done the tail that way, and the triangular piece that goes above the regulator/rectifier

So far all the battery box/brackets that I have seen on the net have been alloy or chopped stockers. Carbon fibre will be great to see done.
I take it the ER throttle didn't work?     

Gday a m/TR.

Nice work TR. I actually like how you have done the battery box.

I kept the stock open air box and K&N filter. I separated the battery box from the air box, so I can take either one off. I cut just in front of where the battery straps originate. There is a 5-10mm gap now.

This lets me run the bike with the battery off and remote with long auxiliary cables and the air box and ignition parts in place to synchronize it with a manometer. The battery sits on a stool next to the bike connected via the auxiliary cables letting me get to the top of the carbs for needle adjustments and synchronizing.

A friend of mine put the battery in the very front of the air box and put the ignition where the battery box used to be. He runs pods on his Superlight and can access all of the carbs (FCR 39s) without removing anything. The whole front, lower bulge of the air box was dissected from the rest and holds a smaller SBK gel battery in front of and under the K&N pods. Only thing is that the SS frame has two brackets for the front of the air box to take the weight of a battery and the Monsters only have one. His solution cut the air box in half and cut down the battery box into an ignition bracket.

a m if you want to, you could fabricate a tidier solution than his to have complete access to all of the carbs without removing anything. Unlike a plastic chopper like me, you have the skill to do it in carbon. The only problem is to find a solution for the single front air box bracket on the Monster. Whatever you decide, looking forward to seeing your carbon work.

TR your bike looks great. Is it one of the first Monster S models?

I think mine will be a simple carbon angle and sheet from a structural carbon vendor and some good 3M epoxy. It won't look as pretty as something that's purposefully molded that way, and probably won't be quite as light, but it will certainly weigh in less than the stock airbox, and it will be crazy strong.

I did a small box/table out of some of these materials before that I could jump up and down on without it even so much as whimpering. And I'm no small mammal.

Thanks for the support Koko, lot of hours staring at it trying to figure out how to make it look "cleaner" now that reflector is gone too, registration time [leo], I am not to sure about it being one of the "1st S models" because i am not all that familiar with when Ducati started making the 900S but it has the adjustable shocks and it had a bunch of stock carbon fiber all over it...not too sure what else made it an S model as now it has been customized and repainted but thats what the Vin specified i guess.

I like the way the battery box works as it is, i have logged about 435 miles on the bike since the FCR install and still no issues to be noted, i guess my grin muscles are starting to get sore now so take that into consideration...i made a 600 ninja look like a 250 rebel in my rear view too, 0-100 this thing is fast...plus i put a few more teeth on the rear sprocket too so that helps a bit...wont do too much more than 135...thats at 8700RPM too...so thats about flat out but honestly thats more than enough...it would be interesting to see what it would top out at with a 39 tooth rear sprocket...maybe someday........ [beer]

Bring it down to the Texas Mile. You get a mile to figure out how fast it'll go.

I thought about chopping the battery box/air box to allow easier removal (it sure is wedged in there)-have you noticed any problems or side effects of chopping the battery tray off of the air box? Does it move around at all?

the battery box definately wiggles a bit more than it used to but i placed some zipties in strategic places and it seems be pretty sturdy now...i havent had any abnormol operating side effects either, everything seems to be working great as my endless shiteating  ;D would indicate....

Not really with a small gel type battery. I have revved the bike with the tank up and was surprised by how stable the whole set up was. My bolts, washers and grommets holding the battery box seem to be in good shape.

I had to pack in the small battery with foam and tighten the straps. The battery is a late model SBK type so it is lower and shorter. It's about half the weight which is a big weight saving that high on the bike's center of gravity. Another advantage is no acid/water spillage or ugly overflow hose.

With a tall stock battery I imagine there would be some rocking of the battery on the rubber mountings.

You could still separate the battery box and air box but have a quick release bracket between the two for stability. I didn't bother.
Looking forward to tiny battery technology becoming more affordable, that would make battery weight negligible. There were some products mentioned on this site that were incredibly light.

I'm not sure what this guy did for his battery or coils, but I ran across this searching, too:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S7jaoPHSTtI/AAAAAAAAFao/casrEuFBsMg/s800/DSC03795.jpg)

this is my doings. i came up with a new battery box but wasn't 100% happy with it. trying to come up with something that's nice and clean. i came across this set-up on another site that really caught my eye.


about half way down on the 2nd page.
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?s=66d19eeb9ae87bf06d0bc6ff7bb11502&t=35281&highlight=singles&page=2 (http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?s=66d19eeb9ae87bf06d0bc6ff7bb11502&t=35281&highlight=singles&page=2)

Yes, very interesting:

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/bruntr/newengine2004.jpg?t=1199458699)

the main reason i had to rethink my design was that the dyna coil's output are angled at about 45 degrees downward. putting the plug cable at a funky angle.

(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x251/seusssandm/DSC03798.jpg)

but as of now i chopped the original battery tray off, and stuffed my wrong sized battery in there. works good, but not a long term fix.

That's easily the best solution I've seen! Looks killer!

Question. Are his carbs on backwards?!

^^^^
Possibly... I read the thread from the other board where the pic is from - it sounds like he went with individual 41mm FCRs to allow for shortened intakes.  That would allow him to rotate each one on the intake as needed, wouldn't it?



///the engine under that trick bracket is soooooo sweet it makes me want to crap my pants.

that one still looks banked, but on backwards - throttle cables on brakes side rather than clutch/gear change side.  I can't see if the vertical cylinder's there, but it seems like it would interfere with this tray method. I suppose we need more pics.

I stand corrected, looking at the built motor, they are even, just oriented in different directions. I get it now.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/bruntr/motornov06003.jpg?t=1199458608)

That's Bruntr, Ducati.ms - via Atlanta, GA

If I summarize his setup, you get:

966 (95mm Mahle pistons, 68 mm stroke - oem stroke) - Gapless Rings (How does this work?)
Knife Edged & Balanced Crank, Carillo Rods
Keihin Split Singles - different needle for jetting reasons
Pod Filters, Sil Moto Spaghetti Headers
MBP flowed heads
Degreed Cams
Lightweight Flywheel
"more more more" - wish he would have elaborated.

Still has crappy OEM crankcase breather. No mention of lightened engine internals beyond flywheel. Wonder why he didn't do DynaCoils, no mention of changed ignition boxes to 1.1, 2.4, 3.0 or otherwise.

Seems like like Kokusan 1105 boxes, I guess he moved the pickups.

Is the OEM crank breather working bad? I really don`t know..... :-\

G'day guys.
This is such an interesting thread.

Those short manifold bikes certainly have a particular requirement for a battery/ignition bracket due to the split single carbs. Seems more straightforward for the stock manifold set up.

I have really wanted to put short manifold/split FCRs on my Monster and have checked out what's involved. Looking at various websites and having e-mailed people in the States, Canada and Australia it's obvious that the short manifold bikes are nearly all carbed 900SS, 900SSie or M900ie models with only a few exceptions. Most people were very helpful and straight up.

The carbed Monsters seem to require a 'not as short' manifold arrangement if you don't want to cut the frame. This requires fabrication of custom manifolds. If you are willing to modify the frame you are able to get the 'optimum' short manifold length for top end horsepower. If anyone in the world sells bolt on short manifolds that don't require touching the frame please PM me. If someone sells 'em I would advertise my dual 41FCRs and call Chris Kelly for a split singles kit!

If I still had my Superlight I would have done it for sure.

a m , this has potential for your track bike project 'eh? Or are you tempted to go the whole shebang with your Monster? I didn't feel it was worth it unless I wanted to paint the frame.

Vee Two used to do their own version of head reconfiguration like MBP. You could ship your motor or whole bike to them, but that avenue is gone for us down here. I have enquired in Australia as to whether other engine builders would do such work. I have not had much success in garnering any interest so far. Unfortunately DS motors are also still too expensive here, if you could find one.

When it's time for a full rebuild, I'm looking at an MBP style heads, split singles and a modified frame because by then the frame will need a repaint anyway!

koko - give mark at veetwo a call, they DO have some of those lightweight primaries in stock!

Thanks a m.

Were they heavily discounted?

Looking forward to seeing your work with the battery box and pods.

Cheers [drink]

somewhere in the 300's per set

Wow, at least a grand off from memory. I'm pretty sure from a copy of their catalogue I recently deleted [bang]. That was for the set.

That's a liquidation price alright. I reckon I would have to lower my gearing if I put it on. I'm running 15/39 which is stock here, but the bike pulls it easily with it's mods. Have to check Brads gearing/primary ratio charts.

Cheers [drink]
Gotta watch the Moto GP delayed now, just got up.

DIBS!

Well. We are part-way through the process. Here's some progress shots:

Notice the plastic piece that normally sits above the regulator is now carbon fiber (and hidden amongst a tangle of wires currently)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S8vc0OIJCrI/AAAAAAAAFfQ/sf_BY7ySh7U/s400/IMG_2227.JPG)

Likewise, the bracket to mount the horn is made of carbon fiber and the bolt is black billet aluminum.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S8vc0e-9SII/AAAAAAAAFfU/hcmcRcyRJ7o/s400/IMG_2229.JPG)

Work in progress battery box and coil/ignition mount:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S8vc1vqg_hI/AAAAAAAAFfY/kzKbcu8DBlg/s400/IMG_2230.JPG) (http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S8vc3G4rcJI/AAAAAAAAFfc/3aaX0kjxv4c/s400/IMG_2231.JPG)

(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S8vc3bu6UsI/AAAAAAAAFfg/dikNcyggryU/s400/IMG_2232.JPG)

Shown with back pieces that will "wedge" in the battery to prevent it from moving:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S8vc3_XxLGI/AAAAAAAAFfk/rSHZcWKZ2wg/s400/IMG_2233.JPG)

Nice work a m.

Looks great. Looking forward to seeing the finished job.

You've been busy lately that's for sure.

Cheers [drink]

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S9HqwZr554I/AAAAAAAAFhs/kqlvT3e9MFc/s800/IMG_2245.JPG)




Waiting on Jet Hot to finish up the pipes (intake and exhaust headers) so it can all be reassembled. Have new intake manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets, crush washers for the balancing and vacuum screws, and titanium screws for those ports that get plugged, along with titanium lock nuts for the manifold studs - intake&exhaust.

Playing the waiting game does not rock. The weather is fantastic today, I want to ride. Or wrench. Something with the bike, sheesh. (So I went and made sure the tank and gauges were dust free)

Gday a m

How's it going with the FCR/pods install?

You up to jetting yet?

Interested to see what jetting you end up with.

I wish! I keep missing the FedEx delivery - two days in a row... he's got my various pipes coming back from Jet-Hot where they got ceramic coated. I showed up a half hour earlier today back home from the time of day he came the day before and missed him by - according to the slip on the door, less than 5 minutes.

Perhaps tomorrow!

made progress yesterday and today. some odds and ends to tidy up, but here's a progress picture - its alive:

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S9y4iXBUthI/AAAAAAAAFj8/YJS46rX48v4/s800/IMG_2256.JPG)

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S9y4j9h0SFI/AAAAAAAAFkE/Ea1Ynm9jZcQ/s800/IMG_2263.JPG)

I'll get some detailed shots of under the "hood" (ha!) soon - still need to solder two wires, and hook up a switch for the a/f ratio monitor. Not really a necessary bit, but it works well under my tail. sometimes you just gotta have a gizmo.  And I believe I'll be putting the belly pan back on, though its fun to see it all nekkid again.

to preempt koko64's next question: i have not yet messed around with jetting. One question though, do you all find it necessary to have the idle control turned "on" a bit for it to idle? Mine will die everytime if I back it all the way off. Wondering if that's correct or not. With it on, I can bring it to a nice ~1000 rpm idle or so, and it feels good. Wasn't sure if it should be able to do this without that turned a bit.

(in other news, I have acquired 851/888 corsa suspension rocker that is adjustable. gotta get some machining done for it to be ready to go... that's a project for another day though)

Bloody nice bike a m!

Lots'a nice bits on it.

Yeah, you definitely gotta adjust the idle knob to get it idling. Wound all the way out, it might not even lift the slide, so set it to your liking.

I like a fast idle to help warm up without a choke and because I don't have a slipper clutch. Once warm mine runs at 1300-1350, without being too clunky into first.

There's a knack to warm up Chris Kelly discusses in the FCR supplement. He's right on the button with it.
Cheers [drink]

Yep, me too.


Pics or it didn`t happend... ;)
Never seen one.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S87woZtgJ-I/AAAAAAAAFf0/35gnt44HVYg/s800/851%20888%20M900%20Billet%20Corse%20Rocker.JPG)

Phwoarr!

If my wife catches me looking at such titilating bike porn I'll be in big trouble!

Cool stuff!

Theresa guy on eBay that has em for $400 right now. Anyone wanna donate to the steven needs motorcycle gadgets fund?  ;D

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S-BpnFsUohI/AAAAAAAAFnQ/78CIz159Kiw/s800/IMG_2300_1_2_3_4.jpg)

(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S-BnWZsE7MI/AAAAAAAAFnA/_cOgtPs7fhM/s800/IMG_2292.JPG)

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S-BnSmqN6oI/AAAAAAAAFmw/wKPgsRUMnJY/s800/IMG_2286.JPG)

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/S-BnRtCucGI/AAAAAAAAFms/keO5mx-RXtM/s800/IMG_2285.JPG)

i was considering buying the one that's on ebay, but i can't make my mind up. if i bought the billet pivot i'd want the billet arch to go with it. and i can't find an arch to save my life.

i've already got one of them.  but in case tony is thinking of looking for it on friday morning, it's in my 851.

haha.

Anything of note while using it that I should be aware of?  Install concerns? I was told I need to have a spacer machined for the "far left side bolt area" in this picture - to span the distance between the two sides where that bolt goes to the hoop - otherwise you risk deformation left/right from the hoop, which bolts around the outsides of it.

I think its going to be painted "old gold" on the trellis part, and black on the flats to make it mimic the frame on mine. Maybe. That might be overkill, but could be fun.

Hot bike, but my preference is sans belly pan. the more nekkid the better!  [thumbsup]

My wife agrees with you. At this point, it stays because I had it painted and liked the paint scheme. I'd have a headlight fairing too, but mine was the old school round shape, and in the triple swaps over the years (cyclecat, then IMA), I lost the ability to mount it. Thought about getting a new-fangled headlight fairing which would mount right up, but the DP gauges interfere. Too many hassles, I gave up.

The bellypan nicely hides the horizontal cylinder's a/f sniffer, so it retains the carby "gizmo-free" look by using the bp to hide it.

you need the right hoop.  some have the centre tube, some the opposite that won't work with this lever.  apart from that just all the right bits to suit work fine.

Ok, i'm on to tuning.

Went on a good long ride yesterday. I'm a little bit rich everywhere it seems, except just as I roll on the throttle from a maintenance throttle position - it seems to go lean for part of that range and then a surge of power comes on (which is awesome by the way, but I need it to not be ho-hum and then surge, but rather just be going bananas from the beginning).

Seems like that's a needle size (diameter) change, yes?
That's what my reading is telling me. They come with EMT needles. The charts I'm staring at make me think I should look into EMS needles, and see if that solves the problem.

G'day a m
How good are those carbs!

I think my bikes porting, pistons and Australian gas may make my jetting irrelevant, but here are some things I found.


If its rich cruising along it could be that big slow jet giving you a rich state on small load/small throttle openings. I did plug readings at steady cruising 45-50mph/1/4 throttle. Mine were very sooty and fouling plugs with the 60 slow jet.

I would try raising the needles for the mid range transition helping acceleration before the main jet kicks in. If you are winding it open and the bike really dies before taking off, you may need to raise the needles a few notches, but you know, everyone says go one notch at a time. I raised the needles a notch at a time untill I was satisfied with the bikes response. I looked for the transition to main jet to be seamless with no hesitation. You know you've gone too far when the thing starts blubbering/missing and you start heading down the other end of "the acceleration bell curve". I'd try that before buying new needles. With your pods set up that should be easy.

Unfortunately, the only way you will know what is the best main jet is to find a long hill (or drag strip) and find the jet size that gives you the highest terminal speed at your marker. It's a good way to go to jail where I live (or kill yourself). I wouldn't recommend it. Thank God for dynos.

If it kicks in real strong at full throttle then that's a good sign for the main jet being close. It could also be a sign of how much better the FCRs are!

I am running 52 slow jets, EMT needles at #6 out of #7 notches (very high) and pretty big 165 main jets. On my Superlight with the same mods, I ran this set up after extensive testing I would PM about. I am considering either going to the next richest needle or investigating a bigger accelerator pump jet, or not worrying about it! It goes great!

The Superlight had 39 FCRs, that is the only major difference in the engine mods. It came with the carbs and ran poorly untill I jetted it properly. The blend of engine modifications didn't work well untill the jetting was right.

I would try some smaller slow jets and needle pos-ns #4 and #5 because you can test them at legal and quasi legal speeds. You could try someones main jet size with the same mods (and gas) as your bike. 

PM or post for details when you test.

Cheers to FCRs [beer]

The bellypan nicely hides the horizontal cylinder's a/f sniffer, so it retains the carby "gizmo-free" look by using the bp to hide it.
[/quote]

what wideband do you use? is it something you have wired on the bike all the time or just for tuning/logging data? i have 41 fcr too and was wondering the best way people tune them.

I wonder if its the gear Chris Kelly stocks in his catalogue?
Be real handy seeing what the carbs are doing as you ride if they work on a dash display.

Hey a m, were you referring to this kind of data or seat of the pants impressions re your jetting so far?

I put mine under the seat and its for dyno tuning purposes. Its removable and I've got it set up with switches so you can go from horizontal to vertical cylinder. Also it has amusing lights

How many turns on the air screw?

1.5 I think. Going to check tomorrow evening and will get back to you. Wife says I've had "enough garage time" for now. (What does that even mean?!)

that means the whip has been cracked and some lady time has to happen. i get that too.

Be carefull how you mount the bracket for the battery box and coils, I made one and only used the rear 2 lugs that are under the battery box (looks the same as all the ones in the pics) with no support at the front. The bracket I made is very rigid and it ended up cracking and braking the 2 lugs on the frame from the forward/backward motion of the bracket because it had no frontal support and has the weight of the battery ect on it.

its sorted now, I made a support that stops that movement.
I can take pics if you want...

That is a good idea - I have plenty of room to run such a support forward. I'll take a look at it this evening, and work on getting some more CF angle to run towards the front where the airbox used to mount up.

These things freakin' rock. I'm still running pretty rich throughout most of the places, think I may drop down a jet size. I dropped the needle clips two spots and am now dead spot free (one clip removed most of the deadspot, two made it wonderful feeling).

I do, however, have a bit of an issue with the bike at top gear, throttle wtfo, high rpm. Seems like the float bowls may run dry, it has a bit of a stutter occasionally. I can roll off the gas, and get back on it later with no problems. Thoughts?

G'day a m.

They sure do. [thumbsup]

What clip pos-n did you go to (measured from the top notch)?

Maybe its main jet related?

I was told recently by a tuner who appears to specialize in these carbs (for dirt bike racers) that the leak jet which feeds the accelerator pump may often be too small as delivered. He reckons this causes the pump to squirt for too long during a snapping open of the throttle, causing bogging. He told me to consider trying a bigger leak jet to get more fuel in at the start of the slide opening and thereby stopping the "squirt" earlier due to the fuel in the pump resi running out earlier. I hadn't considered this.

Since they are probably cheap jets, I may try this, since with the paired carbs we only need one. My view was that my bike may need a larger leak jet to stop the initial lean bogging, or rich bogging (only one way to find out)!  This guy reckons the smaller leak jet affects the duration of the squirt and he feels the bike needs a bigger but shorter squirt.

That's another tuning option to consider regarding acceleration if your cruising tuning is  good.

Although I am still fine tuning these things, they are tremendous as they are.

Yeah, they are pretty neat - I am considering an adjustable leak jet from the FCR-MX world, to see if that works and what kind of "wow" factor i can get out of it. There are also fuel screws (external) to make adjustments easier, and larger "sumps" around the main jet - much of it is most useful for dirtbikers who bounce around all day, but we'll see if some of it converts well to street FCR use. Also, it adds a splash of color to the carbs.