Ducati Monster Forum

First of all i want say that you make and use this tool at your own risk  [cheeky]

OK here we go, bare with my English since I'm Swedish!

Things necessary for the making of a cheap engine turning tool.

1. a 15 mm stainless steel tube, the one i used had 2 mm thick wall.

2. a 14 mm ring spanner

3. one M8 bolt 40mm long

4. 20-30 minutes of sparetime :)

-------------------------------------------------

Cut the stainless pipe so you get a 32-34mm pipe.

Then make 2 vertical cuts to the pipe. these 2 cuts will be the pins that fits to the crankshaft. I made my pins 3mm long 3mm Wide.

(http://klanrekyl.se/a/bilder/tappar_ror.jpg)

Remove the material not needed with a file or tool of choice, i have marked the material to be removed with green.


Now you should have a piece of pipe that looks like the one in the picture.

(http://klanrekyl.se/a/bilder/bult_ror.jpg)

Next step is to get the piece of pipe to match the 14mm ring spanner, since the tube is 15mm you need to remove material from the pipe. I carefully used a file to remove enough material to fit the ringspanner.

Use a vice to press the pipe in to the ringspanner, it must be a real tight fit.

If you got it right you now have a nice engine turningtool for practically nothing.

Oh, the bolt is used to secure the tool to the crankshaft.

(http://klanrekyl.se/a/bilder/bak.jpg)

(http://klanrekyl.se/a/bilder/staende.jpg)

(http://klanrekyl.se/a/bilder/imotor.jpg)


Hope this make some sense to you, if not please feel free to ask.

Simple solutions are always good.  What I don't seem to grasp is how the "ring spanner", often called a box end wrench here in the states, doesn't slip when you apply torque.  I would have thought even with the spark plugs removed there would be enough friction to over come the lever ring spanner.  I guess not.
Your English is fine.

If you look at the fourth picture, you can see that i did some flat spots on the the tube to get more friction. Its important to make sure that the tube got a larger diameter than the spanner to get a real tight fit.
For me there is no problem whatsoever, no wiggling no slipping. The tool turns the engine without any problem. If you don't get it tight enough, tack weld it :)

brilliant! [bow_down]

A couple of tack welds from a tig welder wouldn't hurt.

Does the bolt thread into the crank? and if so couldn't you just put two nuts on the bolt lock them down and do away with the tube? then you could just use the bolt and a wrench to turn the crank. Maybe i'm missing something. ;D

And only turn in one direction!

Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights make a left.   [laugh]

never thought of that.

 [laugh]  I thought you ment something like this kind of "engine turning" tool.

 (http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n182/silverking_2006/engine_tanker_canopy.jpg)

Is that your work?

Alas....no.  That pic came off of the interwebs.  However,  I am lucky to have a talented friend that will (sometimes) trade beer for welding / machine work.    Now, if I happened to have a set of those aluminum fenders and seat cowl... ;D


hijack over  [beer]

I wish this had been posted when I did my valve adjustment.  Broke a nice pair of needlenose turning this beast.  Great tool for next time though.

<jack>

More info on the cool engine-turned aluminum:
http://positiveapeindex.blogspot.com/2007/01/belly-tanker-livery-complete.html (http://positiveapeindex.blogspot.com/2007/01/belly-tanker-livery-complete.html)
http://positiveapeindex.blogspot.com/2007/01/belly-tanker-livery-complete.html (http://positiveapeindex.blogspot.com/2007/01/belly-tanker-livery-complete.html)

</jack>

Dig around a bit and you find some naughty pix.