Ducati Monster Forum

Originally posted on Squidbusters.com (by me)

Once you get a Monster, there are seemingly a few mods that everyone does first thing. 

One is removal of the emissions cannister, which does nothing for performance and just adds a few pounds and looks ugly.  This write-up will be good for all newer Monsters (all sizes including S2R/S4R).  Monsters 2000 and older have a different set up, I believe.

**Disclaimer**
The Monster emissions system is mandated by the state of California and other states that have adopted CARB laws. If you live in these states and choose to modify or remove it you could be facing big legal troubles.
************

OK, that said, here is a picture of the Monster with the emissions can on; its hidden behind the big ugly aluminum cover.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/mangeldbug/evapbefore.jpg)

Now to get started.

You will need:
8mm Allen wrench
four 5/8 x 1.25 washers
two M5 0.80 x 10 hex head bolts
sheers to cut hoses
fuel line
6mm brass Y- or T- connector (optional)
three small hose clamps (optional)

The aluminum evap can cover is bolted into the footpeg bracket, so the first thing you gotta do is take that off.  Use a 8mm Allen wrench. 

I took off the entire bracket (5 bolts total), but I think all you NEED to do is take out the two bolts that are holding on the aluminum cover and maybe loosen the other bolts.  The evap cannister is secured to the back of the aluminum cover by clips, so once the aluminum cover is free all you have to do is slide it off.  I took the aluminum cover to NAPA and found some washers the same width of the bracket that I would need for spacers when I put everything back together (two stacked 5/8 x 1.25 washers fit perfect).

Now cut all three hoses where they connect to the evap can. 

One hose is a waste tube and connects to nothing; that is now trash. 

The thicker hose connects to the fuel tank.  There are two things you can do with this: 
1.  route it with the other vent hose coming from the tank to the bottom of the engine, or
2.  get a T- or Y- connector and mate the two vent hoses into one and run it down to the bottom of the engine.  I used a 6mm brass T-connector and secured the hoses with small hose clamps.

The third hose you follow back to the throttle bodies, one on each side of the engine.  Remove the hose and the gold nipple underneath from each.  Take the small washer off the gold nipple, put it on your M5 hex head bolt (0.80 x 10) dabbed with a little locktite, and plug the hole.  Do this for both sides.

If you havent done this already, put the 8mm bolts back on the footpeg bracket remembering to put your washers in for spacers.  Put a bit of loctite on these bolts as well.

All done!  And look what a difference it makes!
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/mangeldbug/evapremoved.jpg)

And more good news:  I was able to lose 4 ugly zip ties that were securing the evap hoses to the frame for good!

Just did the same mod 2 weeks ago.  For those of you who are considering, don't forget to plug the inlets at the vertial and horizontal cylinders (where the hoses used to go to).  Replace the brass parts with M5 screws and seal it with liquid gasket. 

and for those of you with 696... i dont think it's an M5 screw.

Just a point of info, the piece you are removing is called an "evaporative emission" canister, as opposed to exhaust emissions.

USA is the only place that has them due to CARB laws.  Technically, you have to have them in the 11 states (all the northeastern states) that adopt CARB laws, not just Cali.

When this mod was done and I wrote up the original How-To (2006), Cali was the only state that required it.  Thanks for the update.  I will modify the original disclaimer

it's been that way for a while, NY has been a CARB state since around 1998

"States following the California standards include Maine, Massachusetts, New York, Oregon, Vermont, and Washington and are frequently referred to as "CARB states" in automotive discussions since the regulations are defined by the California Air Resources Board."

I believe there are 8 in total, I was wrong about 11.  That is why the new Jeep diesels are only "42 state legal."

Cali is probably the only state that does check on inspection though, I know for a fact that NY does NOT look for the evap during inspection. 

Do you have any photos of the cannister with the aluminum cover removed, or some non close-up shots of the area?  So in the end, what does removing the emmissions cannister do for the bike?  What is the original purpose of the cannister?  Did you put the footpeg back on, and what does it look like all reassembled?  I've got an '07S2R800 from Illinois.  Does anyone know if I would have the cannister on?  I'll have a peak tonight.  Donzo

Its a black squarish looking thing on the left side of your 800 if you're sitting on it. It'll be by the oil cooler so your question about the aluminum cover really does not apply since thats not used for the S*R series to hide the canister.

Here: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=2337.0

And here: http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=15223.0

Raux, do you know what size they are on a 696?

no, i never took mine off to go get a recheck on the size. i just put them next to the M5 that i bought and said.. mmm nope. and then put them back on.

I would take it off, then go to Homedepot. they have a wallboard with metric holes to check it.

I'm with the crowd that says put vacuum caps (1/8) on the nipples (beavis chuckle). it's A. easier, you don't break the seal on the bolt that's already good and B. if the eco-nuts ever get their way it'll make it easier to put back on.

If you live in one of the 11 or 12 carb states, beware. Never underestimate the crazy s**t politicians will pull. As of right now, I think only Callie checks for this at inspection but all carb states could push compliance.

i put vacuum caps on mine (about 2 years ago, on my s2r) and they've worked perfectly since them

put a dab of grease on the nipple (heh heh heh) before you put on the cap and twist the cap to spread it (heh heh heh) and it seals perfectly.

i don't see any reason to remove the nipples.  keeping them means you have easy setup for balance if you need it.

removing them means you have to put in nipples, which means removing the screw-plugs.

I used this tutorial to take my canister off my 695.
Took me about 15-20 mins, and WOW...I didn't think it would make any difference, but it did!
I used rubber vacuum caps to cover the nipples on the intake manifolds.  I used the old tee fitting to unite the vent and drain hoses from the gas tank and a short section of tubing from the old canister to run the united line to the bottom of the bike. 
I started it up and noticed immediately that it started with less hesitation and was definitely louder!  So COOL!  Power delivery may actually be smoother and the power feels perfectly normal.  All in all, a great $1.89 mod. [thumbsup]

I took the can off my monster (696) they are 5mm screws. More naked  ;D

OOPS 6mm [drink]

Is the length of the M5 bolt critical? I couldn't get a good look at the amount of threads on the inside but I am guessing that the bolts I used might have threaded the entire way through. Any problems with that?

It shouldn't matter unless your manifolds are flowed.

I'm not sure that I understand what you mean. It is a stock '02 MS4

it doesn't matter unless you've done extensive engine modifications.

Good answer. Thanks!

What is meant by "1/8"? Those nipples look like they're 3/8" to 1/2"...

Edit: Used 1/4" and they fit perfectly.

Well...I put nipples on at first and noticed a noticeable drop in idle (~900 rpm) and difficulty in starting.  I figured that I had a vacuum leak, so I ditched the nipples and bolted the holes up with the OE washers and RTV.  Still no change in idle.  I ran propane around everything suspect and observed no change.  Grrrrr!

Ideas anyone?   ???  FWIW, I have cored cans and I'm at 5600 miles on a 2004 800ie.  I figure she's do for a trip to the mechanics to fatten up the mixture a wee bit.  Also, I'll be checking valves tonight.  Any help is appreciated.  [beer]

You have to adjust the air bypass .  Plugging the holes reduced some air flow.  Same thing on mine.  About 1/8th turn each

Thank you! Next question: is this one of the air bypass screws (couldn't find a good diagram) with the red arrow?
I figure that this will bring up the idle but at the cost of a leaner mixture. Yes?

(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n182/silverking_2006/TB.jpg)
 

Yes that's it.  It will be covered by a white plastic plug.  You can break the cover or use something to pull it out. 

It won't lean.  The ecu will compensate

There is one on each throttle body

Thank you again!  [beer]

I posted this on the other monster forum and thought i would post it over here as well.

First let me apologize for not having pictures showing the removal of the charcoal canister.  I don’t have pictures because I was having issues with the gas tank pulling a vacuum every time I ran the bike so I started taking things apart to figure out where the gas tank vent lines were fouled and causing the vacuum in the gas tank.   
Step 1: remove the left side air deflector that holds the charcoal canister.

Step 2: remove the three bolts that hold on the right side air deflector. 

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/liquiddragon/My%20Ducati%20796/IMG_1221.jpg)

Step 3: remove the vapor hose that attaches to the throttle body on the right side that is behind the air deflector.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/liquiddragon/My%20Ducati%20796/IMG_1229.jpg)

Step 4: remove the barb fitting that is installed in the throttle body and replace with a screw and the copper washer that was on the barb fitting to seal the hole.  I don’t know what size screw to use because I used the leftover screws from the tail chop that I did.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/liquiddragon/My%20Ducati%20796/IMG_1233.jpg)

Step 5: remove the vapor hose and barb fitting from the left side and replace with a new bold and the copper washer that came off of the barb fitting.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/liquiddragon/My%20Ducati%20796/IMG_1216.jpg)

Step 6: at this point I cut the fuel tank vent hose at the charcoal canister to keep it as long as possible or you can cut it at the top of the tank and use a T fitting and connect the big hose to the smaller hose at the top of the tank and use the smaller hose run to vent the tank to under the bike where it is already ran.

Step 7: install the left side and right side radiator shroud/side panels on the bike and you are done.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/liquiddragon/My%20Ducati%20796/IMG_1242.jpg)

So, is  anyone of you look at your spark plug's after you did the modification???

 .   Because on a carburated one ...if you take out the PCV system ( the canister) there's less vacuum in the crankcase and the toxic fumes from the "blow-by "of the cylinder cannot be vacuum out of it.
 
 If  you take out the "canister" ,  you take out 4 in Hg of vacuum that the "canister" was doing in the crankcase.  Toxic fumes from the "blow-by" built up in the crankcase and build up pressure in it so all those fumes go back up past the blow-by and return to the combustion chamber ...and there you have it.... [bang] spark plugs carbonised by an excess of toxic fumes in combustion chamber.....( so now your must be thinking the carburetor is set on a to rich mixture.... ;D)

I f you do the mod you absolutely need to restore that vacuum by placing a K&N filter at the crankcase vent or the tube that is left there after removing the canister.....


the same principal apply to the airbox don't block the vent!!! no vacuum will be produce...

You know they just don't put those just to make it ugly ...those things have a purpose... [beer] ;)

You don't understand what this thread is about.  The emissions canister referred to is the "evaporative emissions" charcoal canister which is ONLY present on US-bikes and ONLY added by Ducati to be California legal.  The canister is not used on any Ducati (or any other) motorcycles outside the USA.

This is not in any way related to the PCV.

The thread you want is here : http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=2469.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=2469.0)

oups!!!  I fought it was about the "canesterectomy" :-\ [thumbsup] sorry  ;)
 at lest there a lillte bit of information there..lol

I can't really tell from the photos, but assuming the 'bulge' is removed with the cannister gone, are there any flat (e.g. non-bulging) side-fairings available for Monsters? It would be nice to have a smooth, flat one like on the left side.

yes you can buy it from motorwheels
or any european dealer.

To elucidate, the non-US versions do not have the charcoal canister.  You can order the European part from the catalogue, just specify the European version in the order.

thread specifying the euro part here:

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=8630.0 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=8630.0)

i just ordered one

Does anyone have any pictures of the removal process of the emissions cannister?

it's two or three small bolts to take the canister off and then plug up the nozzles on the manifolds or remove the nozzles and put in screws.

I've just performed this on a CA model 2001 Monster 750, and have a question:

What are these grey plastic triangular cans for on both sides of the bike, and is it OK to remove them as part of the emissions junk removal ?

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nZ6K35uRMoQ/VQ4MSQDfOWI/AAAAAAAAack/ABDsnScw610/w706-h941-no/IMG_5526.JPG)

you want to remove the carburetors and fuel pump?

I removed a device that looked a lot like that from my WR450 which was part of the emissions junk, that's why I asked.

Can you can tell me about the two triangular cans ?

those are just covers . . .

They are not covers, they have two what look like breather tubes going into them. You can just see them in the pic, going into the 'tank' on the left side.

You can remove the plastic pods if you like, run the hoses that go to them where the air is still, like behind the battery box or you might have running problems.  Those lines are from the float bows and above the diaphragms.  The pentagon shaped thingy is your fuel pump.  You need that.

Thanks.


Yes, I investigated the plumbing and discovered that myself.
It must be a vacuum pump?
I'm used to fuel pumps having a 12v electrical supply, that's why I initially assumed it was part of the emissions crap .

Yes, vacuum pump.

Hate to revive this... but is there a more up-to-date version of this How-to? (https://www.tlplanet.com/core/smilies/0/0/1/1/9/9/images/smilies/sadlike.gif)